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HomeLink Solution for Australia

Kosta

Member
Apr 3, 2019
6
9
Australia
For those who are struggling with their HomeLink setup, this is how I got mine working....

It seems, in Australia at least, that (even though HomeLink works with a large range of receivers) HomeLink only works with receivers that use the 433.9 Mhz frequency. My gate and garage were both on 315 Mhz and the Model S would not recognise either one.

I can confirm that the "Ditec" brand receiver works with the Model S. If your Gate or Garage is not made by Ditec (or not a compatible version), I have tested the following receiver, which you can buy locally and plug in - and it works :)

Ditec Receiver

You will also need a remote control (to initiate the sequence from the car) which is sold on the same website:

Ditec Compatible Remote

$60 for the receiver and $17 for the remote control.

I was able to wire the receiver into my existing garage controller (made by Gliderol which is not compatible). Most garage (and gate) controllers have an available 12V terminal which you can used to supply power to the plug-in Ditec receiver.

It works great - automatically comes up on the main display when I come home and within about 30m from my front gate, happy days!!!!
 
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Lachlan

New Member
Nov 27, 2019
3
0
Brisbane
Hey Kosta,

Thanks for your post, this HomeLink thing has been doing my head in. I've purchased the receiver & remote, so part-way there, but the install? Reading your post it sounds like you did the install yourself, if so do you have any tips or tricks you could pass on?
 

Lachlan

New Member
Nov 27, 2019
3
0
Brisbane
Well I haven't got in installed yet, but powered the receiver and went through the HomeLink process in the Tesla and it works, I did have to hit the remote button twice though during the setup process (rather than press and hold). Now just have to get this unit installed in the gate motor, which I might try myself, but will probably wimp-out and get someone else to do.
 
Well done Lachlan, sorry I didn't see your post till now.
It took a lot of reading to figure it out but it wasn't that hard. Your existing receiver has an input (two pins/connectors) that you need to wire the output from the DiTEC into - it is an external override. Doing it this way will mean that your gate will respond to the original remote plus your new DiTEC receiver.
 

remotepro

New Member
Dec 12, 2019
1
1
Brisbane
Hi Guys,

It's Michael from Remote Pro. We are happy to hear that our receiver works with Homelink.

Just a bit of further info on the product. It is two channel so you can essentially wire it up to two motors that are side by side instead of buying a separate receiver for each. The receiver is powered by 12-24V which 99% of garage/gate motors have a terminal that outputs this voltage. If not you will need to purchase a 12V 1.5A AC adapter form somewhere like Jaycar to power the receiver unit.

If your motor has screw or plug in terminals all you will need is some wire to wire this up. If the terminals on your motor are pins, it is best to ask us before you buy to see if we have a harness that will suit your motor to make it plug and play otherwise you will need to buy a plug to suit which you should be able to get from Jaycar also.

Receivers can be installed by an electrician or garage technician if you don't want to do it yourself. The receivers do not come with specific instructions on how to wire it to your motor but essentially the process is similar for all motors.

V+ (receiver) > usually called 12V, 24V V+ (motor)
GND (receiver) > usually called COM, Common, GND, 0V (motor)
CH1 - Left (receiver) > usually called WB, OSC (motor)
CH1 - Right (receiver) > usually called COM, Common, GND, 0V (motor)
 
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aroth

Member
Aug 16, 2019
210
323
Sunshine Coast
Had my Homelink retrofit (Model 3) on Wednesday. Promptly discovered that it wasn't going to work with my garage door (ATA GDO-11).

Today installed the Ditec receiver/relay, and it's working as advertised.

Wiring was fairly straightforward, I used some 2.5mm DC cable (smallest diameter I could find) from the auto parts store to make the connections. Connected it like:

GDO-11 -> Ditec
-----------------------
PWR -> V+
GND -> GND
GND -> CH1 (the terminal closest to the standalone GND terminal)
OSC -> CH1 (second terminal)

Powered it up and paired the remote and it worked straight away. Note that when training Homelink you have to first point the remote at the car and then (after the car has copied the code) press the 'Learn' button on the Ditec box (so don't close it up right away!) and then test the signal from the car (while learn mode is still active).

Also note that the Ditec has two channels, and a separate 'Learn' button for each one. Make sure you're using the correct channel for your wiring setup.

I had to cut a notch in the plastic shield on the GDO-11 backplate for the wiring to pass through. Kinda seems like although they provide all these terminals they don't really expect people to actually use them. Anyways, the complete setup looks like:

C84Fw8d9CONcB0cgFa903Esq5H7_qbe61JkCsxyhgu9yRiUr2Uz6g07u-eH_2Xr8XACl0qYSwJOPxP11PYGnI8754MQyRtKAYODgAlJx28foBg595a7ot6tQQ1MLPcljY1C3WfzN2WKFYySNLBWlGloikM7gKAYUNij45ib-kl-BUKlhE5ZiNGVTILRiVDsn5wNLcitbMRfOEHad0noyRT3mnSt0fi7q6cf404FlI5DsBwM42v4z8NxB2xu6eimEBFyD_Ucq_EsQ0zgZDDWYKQ_yT0PdOMuIX5iUuwKwVS0RCQm1XMfxtzI-cF-stY1n0Lzq-ElHfHdThquewVpQk9MAZb_0aglIS8nto3rqyIof7I6QjXl2CgOG5uTzquHUc91y7HfHdsrdlwW0byoDe1DWPxuXc2jWN1RCsiNmpqNf2xLBNvmZi5r6NPdYOpN_l__kyGQohJQXc7GZx5iI3HDhULM6XFP1L-qUgCDEFc44_Kq4uxd32NBvCeFxzv2UgMZEfPjYXLUKG3suDKURy3wXkYHLQz_7JXmc8z1jkxtbjG51FXYvFQaX4MSIuNoIliA-7IzfkNk4xM_DhPtFLPSAxFqR4hbg_-CJBl23bzH-bYH_5_uzMKecm6sS-9QLDffoooNtCtlqCrCZfJDwghddj3VLrsqOhUDL_zskNq_laxRH5ZsRULbJ=w2580-h1935-no


TuOysOcmOzc0tX4DFMVvZSbLJoLw18332I9B4Kyqwnxkqa9LQFRVBMIOdhImQU9xcgMw-xUa6lZ-19ST_dks0m1FCkEgcb0WBKPUuf-nyPvM78hI-aBYqr9mtyvNMizePNaSIMJ6_jnYAJQUGo4k7hR9SQdVFngCfa6KHC_imWKA1KeiurkaHLIbT741euh63Atni16v3bjHqQMuc7kClYUa0CB3ZJfBUHCuToBsHtQpa5Or1evM9RI0hW91Wc-Y8bKeFwP-6Dlkmovm9TmZm2UhcMMwN5TUV6H6Lydf23XiyaPvTkWdgHmRhZ_0QKPbgnXXqBfh41cEZywC71L7M4NWrdSanYKZx0z0NvGsYeoZhL_BawVdmjAuJVXT_KHuC_UcG8D_sA3jM8dnHP5iwgmtkiZcF4Ou3tVpTkvw9j75IwOtd4VgNMiScGlyDh_SmrLDiTUgDumbYAYsWE26lKwytvHIjPwpLLPEsGc3vPYM_LUUqwiw457NbdqYL8dIk2T-ZabxfqstydMY7WJ2_YmvGZ1aRFGWihnGRbVyKeXtBxRMNtR7ctTYqHtPlLVXbMJo4COLTX29wPQUmTlsyj8oL1v2zzRnEgF87LbeMGe5F-PkeTH3mLH-fvYUlgY7bp6dOV1zPhRn-XnrA3NZlmJd3XONV11vVe5oM2d6XJSmKaGpOb8Wyi6F=w2580-h1935-no


The gray box with all the wires coming off it is the Ditec. It's held onto the GDO-11 with a piece of double-sided tape. Red wire is V+, black is OSC, remaining wires are GND.

Also discovered that the LiftAway LA-242 remote ($20 from Bunnings) works fine with both the Model 3 and the Ditec receiver (but not the GDO-11). So there's a second option if you don't like the Ditec remote for whatever reason (such as the weird ordering on the 1-2-3-4 button labels).
 
Last edited:

aroth

Member
Aug 16, 2019
210
323
Sunshine Coast
It has a PD/GND/PE/+24V terminal, however the manual states this is for a obstacle detection system.

The manual I found says it should be PB/GND/PE/+24V? And makes no mention of what the PB terminal actually does. I think it might work for you with the Ditec if you wire using PB/GND/+24V (don't see what the "extra" terminal would be for, aside from the same thing that every other garage door opener seems to use it for; allowing the motor to be manually triggered).
 
Last edited:

aroth

Member
Aug 16, 2019
210
323
Sunshine Coast
Did some research, and the "PB" stands for "PushButton" (and "WB" I'm pretty sure is something like "Wall Button"); these terminals are for wiring external buttons/switches to the motor. Should be what you want.

In theory there's a simple way to test it:

1. Connect a wire to the GND terminal
2. Connect a second wire to the PB terminal
3. Short the free ends of the wires together; the garage door should activate
 
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@aroth - that's great advice and that is how you actually test that it will work (short across the two terminals). At the end of the day the two wires coming out of the DiTEC receiver are providing a short circuit across the two terminals on your garage receiver, so testing it as above will confirm you are using the correct terminals.
 
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terry2019

New Member
Dec 29, 2019
1
0
Brisbane
Hi all. Thanks for all the great detailed information on this thread. I have a B&D garage door controller. It has all the terminals listed above except for the GND terminal. Is there somewhere else to look for this or can it be grounded somewhere else? Trying to get my model S homelink to work.
 
For anyone having Homelink issues Kosta above recommended Remotepro I have also used their products great company helped Saturday morning attached photo of Merlin MT230

Could you not use the 230T as is? The manual says it uses the required 433.9 MHz, I known this because I have the same opener. Mine is noisy as hell...
I'm getting homelink installed in my M3 so keen to know what I'm in for.
 

Aussie M3

Member
Supporting Member
Could you not use the 230T as is? The manual says it uses the required 433.9 MHz, I known this because I have the same opener. Mine is noisy as hell...
I'm getting homelink installed in my M3 so keen to know what I'm in for.
I got the Remote to connect once but never the door/ receiver so after Tesla service came out and said door wasn’t compatible so used “Remotepro” work around installed with assistance from Remotepro for wiring and working as expected
 

jason66

Member
Aug 27, 2019
170
245
New Farm 4005
I got the Remote to connect once but never the door/ receiver so after Tesla service came out and said door wasn’t compatible so used “Remotepro” work around installed with assistance from Remotepro for wiring and working as expected
I've just had my homelink installed today in my M3. I have a 230T and have not managed to get Homelink to recognise the remote. Tried new batteries..
How difficult is the Remotepro to install?
 

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