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Homelink - UK

m3p_uk

Member
Aug 1, 2019
667
168
UK
Yep. Almost exactly like mine except its a light grey and there is a single 3-state button at the bottom - open, pause, close. Remote has these as 4 buttons, open, pause, close plus a grey one which I thought was program but doesn't act as such. Looks like yours had 3 buttons at the bottom.

I need to go back and look at the instructions that I posted to see if it resembles the insides of mine. But I'm concerned that I will end up either overwriting the end stops, or deleting the remotes.

4th button on my remote has a padlock symbol and activities the alarm.
Didn't manage to the wired black box in the photo to do anything so would say just leave alone.
All you need to do it put the car into standard learning more, follow the on screen instructions, go to the front of the car and long press the up button on your remote till the headlights flash and save as "door up" or similar. Create a new one and do the same but press and hold the down button for going down.

If the remote is the same then it should work
 

VanillaAir_UK

Well-Known Member
Jun 17, 2019
8,946
6,528
Surrey, UK
Ours is the PDTechnology unit used in a number of different control units, albeit different versions. So not exactly the same as the Neco unit, even though externally, apart from the buttons, the control units look identical. Looks like PD Technology are no longer trading. I was hoping that I could program without the remote. The instructions that I have (posted earlier) are for a different version unit so our units behaviour differs from that in the instructions.

It would be nice to get working with Homelink, but not end of the world as car is not in the garage. Our two other remote opening requirements would be more useful. Unfortunately only one of the remotes is recognised but it opens the gate only on first attempt so I suspect needs the UR mode and access to the control electronics which we do not have.

This is the PD Tech remote.

upload_2020-12-1_8-23-54.png
 
Last edited:

m3p_uk

Member
Aug 1, 2019
667
168
UK
Ours is the PDTechnology unit used in a number of different control units, albeit different versions. So not exactly the same as the Neco unit, even though externally, apart from the buttons, they look identical. Looks like PD Technology are no longer trading. I was hoping that I could program without the remote. The instructions that I have (posted earlier) are for a different version unit so our units behaviour differs from that in the instructions.

It would be nice to get working with Homelink, but not end of the world. Our two other remote opening requirements would be more useful. Unfortunately only one of the remotes is recognised but it opens the gate only on first attempt so I suspect needs the UR mode and access to the control electronics which we do not have.

This is the PD Tech remote.

View attachment 613382

That looks quite different, mine looks like this one
Google Image Result for https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41i0SfHjrjL._AC_UL600_SR600,600_.jpg

It's quite handy having the auto open when you drive up to the door and I always press the button on the wired unit itself to close so actually does work how I need it to! :)
 
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Only a year after having the capability added to my car... I've finally set up HomeLink today with the LiftMaster PR433-4 HomeLink Universal Receiver kindly recommended here.

Mostly I'm just wanting to leave my thanks to everyone for sharing their tips, it made for a fairly painless process and once wired in I was set up in under a minute!

I've a question for those with multiple doors - or those with a similar set up to my own (separate wiring for open and closing functions). Is there any way of choosing between which you trigger in the Tesla app on your phone with the HomeLink button in the controls menu?
 
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CMc1

supercharge.info editor
Supporting Member
Aug 2, 2019
1,645
1,536
North, UK
Only a year after having the capability added to my car... I've finally set up HomeLink today with the LiftMaster PR433-4 HomeLink Universal Receiver kindly recommended here.

Mostly I'm just wanting to leave my thanks to everyone for sharing their tips, it made for a fairly painless process and once wired in I was set up in under a minute!

I've a question for those with multiple doors - or those with a similar set up to my own (separate wiring for open and closing functions). Is there any way of choosing between which you trigger in the Tesla app on your phone with the HomeLink button in the controls menu?
Glad you like it. It is a good bit of kit.

The PR-433-4 comes with two channels - A and B.

Program and wire these separately. Channel A to close. Channel B to open for example.
Then add/pair as two separate doors in the car and rename them as “XXX - close” and “XXX - open”.

EDIT: sorry just re-read your post. Not sure how this will layout in the app
 
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Glad you like it. It is a good bit of kit.

The PR-433-4 comes with two channels - A and B.

Program and wire these separately. Channel A to close. Channel B to open for example.
Then add/pair as two separate doors in the car and rename them as “XXX - close” and “XXX - open”.

EDIT: sorry just re-read your post. Not sure how this will layout in the app

No problem, the app issue is not a big deal for me personally I am just curious about it. I have a HomeKit compatible opener wired in as well, so Siri can sort it out when not sat in the car!
 

SpareHeadOne

Member
Oct 27, 2020
452
329
UK
No problem, the app issue is not a big deal for me personally I am just curious about it. I have a HomeKit compatible opener wired in as well, so Siri can sort it out when not sat in the car!

I've just installed my UR with the same configuration and I'd be interested in which HomeKit opener you added - I do find it a bit of a pain that the app only seems to operate the first device programmed and can't be made to operate the other one.

For anyone stumbling across this thread looking to sort out Homelink on their own systems, I'll add this in case it's of any help:
  • My garage controller is marked as "Eurodrive" on the circuit board, but is actually a Capital Eurokit CPR5050. It has a black slide-up cover with Up/Stop/Down buttons - I think it's quite a popular controller for tube-motor driven roll up doors.
  • I had to leave the garage door controller in impulse mode, but switch the Universal Remote to dead-man mode to get it to work because the default pulse length from the UR was too short for my controller to react.

If anyone wants me to put up pictures of the before/after wiring then just say.
 
I've just installed my UR with the same configuration and I'd be interested in which HomeKit opener you added - I do find it a bit of a pain that the app only seems to operate the first device programmed and can't be made to operate the other one.

For anyone stumbling across this thread looking to sort out Homelink on their own systems, I'll add this in case it's of any help:
  • My garage controller is marked as "Eurodrive" on the circuit board, but is actually a Capital Eurokit CPR5050. It has a black slide-up cover with Up/Stop/Down buttons - I think it's quite a popular controller for tube-motor driven roll up doors.
  • I had to leave the garage door controller in impulse mode, but switch the Universal Remote to dead-man mode to get it to work because the default pulse length from the UR was too short for my controller to react.

If anyone wants me to put up pictures of the before/after wiring then just say.
It was the iSmartgate pro that I set up, it is a fairly similar install to the universal receiver and the manufacturer provide good customer support too for wiring diagrams etc. I purchased from amazon at the time but looks like they no longer stock it.
 

MB2MB2

Member
May 27, 2021
26
4
Dorset
Homelink is indeed a US brand, and many US garage door openers have the compatibility built in. Here I don’t think that’s the case. However, it is possible to add Homelink compatibility to almost any garage door or gate opener.

I’ve got an electric roller garage door, and in preparation for my M3 I added Homelink to it a few weeks ago. It cost me about £100. After a bit of research I found this company:

Electric Gates - Garage Door Openers and Gate Automation Controls

Their email support pre-purchase was first class, even providing an online manual and connection instructions to my existing control box.

To make mine Homelink compatible, I had to add this product:

Liftmaster PR433-4 - 2 Channel 433.92 MHz - Universal Receiver (Replaces 8002E) details

I installed it in about an hour, so all I need now is my Model 3 :)

Luckily I ordered my M3 before Tesla stripped out the Homelink controller, so I’m hoping it will be included!
Thanks for the recommendation - Easygates were excellent and from a photo of my Gate motor found me the manual & the the correct lift master plus provided wiring instructions. Did you attach the liftmaster to the oustide of the gate box, inside or somewhere else with the wiring ? Hopefully it arrives tomorrow and I will have a look.
 
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Roy W.

Battery running low...
Jun 3, 2019
2,334
2,395
Derby, UK
Thanks for the recommendation - Easygates were excellent and from a photo of my Gate motor found me the manual & the the correct lift master plus provided wiring instructions. Did you attach the liftmaster to the oustide of the gate box, inside or somewhere else with the wiring ? Hopefully it arrives tomorrow and I will have a look.
Mine‘s installed on my roller garage door, so all inside the garage. The one I got isn’t weatherproof, so be aware of that if you plan to fit it outside.
 

MB2MB2

Member
May 27, 2021
26
4
Dorset
Can anyone offer any advice to pair my 2017 MS Homelink to the Liftmaster ? I have paired a remote to the LM and that woks the gate.

I can start setup, the headlights flash and then I press the pair button on the LM and there is some activity but when I test the Homelink on the car it doesn't work.

Did you all use the Learn button on the LM and a remote or a different sequence ?
 

VanillaAir_UK

Well-Known Member
Jun 17, 2019
8,946
6,528
Surrey, UK
I have similar on one of our (communal) gates - its the only device that does detect the remote.

I had it work once from the car but that joy was short lived as it then never worked again. I think it is because of a rolling code.

I suspect/hope that it needs a different method which is going to need hands on with the gate controls. But as its a communal gate, that will involve the gate people. As we use that gate infrequently, I will only bother to involve them if they just happen to be around when I am and they seem interested in doing something a little different. Its a shame though as I still left the location active in the car, and pulling up at the gate to have a prompt to open it shows that it would be much easier than having to fumble for the keys.
 

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