How about a DashCam option?

[dratifk]

I just had the Blackvue Dr550 installed so far so good. Everything works. Only thing I noticed is the rear defroster wire in the glass gets in the picture. Anyone else notice this?

I used the 12V supply in the Mic Compartment

 

[portia]

can someone give some instructions on how to connect and make the adapter to plug into the Mic compartment? (like which parts to buy from where, and lots of details) I am plugged into the cig lighter for now.

 

[gnychis]

Call me cheap, but these $300-$500 dash cams are too expensive for me. Especially when it seems like their support and Wi-Fi connections don't seem to work very well. Instead, I did a bunch of research on other dash cam options and found this to be a very widely used one internationally for $106 shipped:

Shadow Recorder GT550WS 1080P Car Dash Camcorder [GT550WS]FoxOffer - Wholesale, OEM, Drop shipping from China directly

It's not as snazzy or small looking as the BlackVue, and it's only a single camera (no rear view), but that's all I really need to start with.

People have been really impressed with its video quality. Here are a few samples:

GT550WS - YouTube

So, if you're cheap like me and want a non $400-500 solution, you might want to go with one of these cameras. Foxoffer is also a reputable reseller of them. I can post my experience with the camera. Mounting it will probably not look as pretty as the BlackVue, so I'm going to try to come up with something to deal with that. Here is a video that shows how big it is compared to the rear view mirror. You could possibly mount it a little bit further behind the rear view:

Reliable-Eyewitness; Review of the GT550W Shadow Recorder DVR - YouTube

 

[dratifk]

I paid $290 for my Blackvue DR550 Front and Rear Camera. Plus $10 Shipping. Sorry but even at $106 that comes to $212 for 2. For $88 dollars savings you are going with an unproven brand with less features. Blackvue, Lukas and Itronics are top three in my opinion and their feature set is very very good compared to these cheap cameras. Just go here and research for yourself.

http://www.radardetectorforum.org/forumdisplay.php?f=132

If you have a front camera and get hit from behind there will be no video of that. These days with all the accidents I'd recommend front and rear recording and at least 1 million dollar Umbrella Policy.

 

[artsci]

I have the Inavi XFD900 which provide fabulous HD recordings front and rear. I recommend it highly.

 

[gnychis]

I paid $290 for my Blackvue DR550 Front and Rear Camera. Plus $10 Shipping. Sorry but even at $106 that comes to $212 for 2. For $88 dollars savings you are going with an unproven brand with less features.

I have never seen the DR550 2 channel that low before. Where did you get it from at that price? I disagree that it is unproven (plenty of people use it).

EDIT: Nevermind, I found your $290 price in a thread in your link here: DR550GW-HD Vehicle Dash Camera 2 Channel (1080p) Review. - Page 3 - Radar Detector & Laser Jammer Forum

 

[Benjamin Brooks]

I have the Inavi XFD900 which provide fabulous HD recordings front and rear. I recommend it highly.

View attachment 38594

Any post install pics artsci?

Anyone recommend an installer they've used in the Bay Area, CA?

 

[Gizmotoy]

Anyone recommend an installer they've used in the Bay Area, CA?

Kind of interested in this as well. In the past I've not been averse to installing stuff like this myself, but I'm not so sure I want to tear this thing up. I'd rather take it to someone who has done one or two already :wink:

 

[artsci]

Any post install pics artsci?

Anyone recommend an installer they've used in the Bay Area, CA?

As my car is in the shop now for about a week getting accident repairs I won't be able to post until I get it back. But I will then.

 

[dratifk]

HEre are my install pics:

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/show...r-Interceptor-Lukas-7900-Cam-Curb-Alert/page2

- - - Updated - - -

I have never seen the DR550 2 channel that low before. Where did you get it from at that price? I disagree that it is unproven (plenty of people use it).

EDIT: Nevermind, I found your $290 price in a thread in your link here: DR550GW-HD Vehicle Dash Camera 2 Channel (1080p) Review. - Page 3 - Radar Detector & Laser Jammer Forum

Ok I shouldn't have said unproven. But in my Opinion and also that of the forums on Radar Detector and Laser Forum the three best out there are Lukas, Itronics, and Blackvue. This is in respect to picture quality and features. I'm sure the camera you posted picture is good and for many $88 is a big amount.

 

[gnychis]

HEre are my install pics:

http://www.teslamotorsclub.com/show...r-Interceptor-Lukas-7900-Cam-Curb-Alert/page2

The install is slick. How well does the software work for you? Do you use Windows or Mac?

 

[portia]

sorry this is a stupid question, does it matter that the fuse is on the red wire vs the black one? the Metra detector kit solution has the fuse already on the black/white wire (which I assume is equivalent to the red), not on the black one.

 

[dratifk]

Not an electrician but the black is ground the fuse needs to be on the live wire which is red.

 

[portia]

Thanks, I managed to install it today!

 

[NJ Plugin]

Looking for help in my BlackVue 550 dash cam install.

We got everything hooked into the unused 12 volt wire in the mic area. And we did get power to the camera initially (heard it start up).

It seems when we moved the wires around we blew the Tesla fuse. We used a meter and now have no power to the wire.

Does anyone know which fuse number we need to check in the frunk boxes.

Thank you.

 

[dratifk]

Looking for help in my BlackVue 550 dash cam install.

We got everything hooked into the unused 12 volt wire in the mic area. And we did get power to the camera initially (heard it start up).

It seems when we moved the wires around we blew the Tesla fuse. We used a meter and now have no power to the wire.

Does anyone know which fuse number we need to check in the frunk boxes.

Thank you.

All the instructions said to put the fuse in the wire to connect the camera. You didn't do this?

 

[NJ Plugin]

All the instructions said to put the fuse in the wire to connect the camera. You didn't do this?

I am not following you Dratifk.

We used the wire connector in the mic area, did get power initially, but then lost power and think we somehow crossed our wires and blew that fuse.

Again, if anyone knows which fuse that connector in the mic area goes to, I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you.

 

[dratifk]

Ok since you aren't following me I guess you haven't read the whole thread. I also installed the Dashcam using the Mic area connection on earlier versions of the Model S. Read this Thread: http://www.teslamotors.com/forum/forums/dashboard-camera-install?page=1

Also look at this Pic:

This is the wire I made and connected to the connector in the Mic area. You see the Fuse built in to the wire. The purpose of that fuse was to prevent blowing the fuse on the Tesla. I'm guessing you blew your Tesla Fuse because you wired into the Connector with the fuse Correct? Sorry I don't know where the fuse is but Maybe someone else can help.

 

[Gizmotoy]

The purpose of that fuse was to prevent blowing the fuse on the Tesla. I'm guessing you blew your Tesla Fuse because you wired into the Connector with the fuse Correct?

This is not typically done to prevent blowing the fuse in the car. Indeed, it would often be preferable to blow the car's fuse as it's usually easier to get at to replace. No, this is usually done so that the added wiring can be run at a lower maximum amperage. It's safest to fuse each run at just above the maximum amperage that run could consume. You don't want to add wiring for a 2A camera connected directly to the car's 20A run, so you put a 2A fuse inline with the camera. This is particularly important if the wire gauges differ.

In any case, if the wires got crossed at where he tapped the 12V connector or prior to the camera's ~2A fuse, it could have blown the car's fuse.

We got everything hooked into the unused 12 volt wire in the mic area. And we did get power to the camera initially (heard it start up).
It seems when we moved the wires around we blew the Tesla fuse. We used a meter and now have no power to the wire.
Does anyone know which fuse number we need to check in the frunk boxes.

I don't recall the fuse position you need, but it's in the frunk. Pull up the owner's manual on the 17" display. It has an extensive listing of the fuse locations and their purpose with a handy graphic. If you don't have a low-amp fuse in line with the camera, make sure you put one in.

 

[dratifk]

This is not typically done to prevent blowing the fuse in the car. Indeed, it would often be preferable to blow the car's fuse as it's usually easier to get at to replace. No, this is usually done so that the added wiring can be run at a lower maximum amperage. It's safest to fuse each run at just above the maximum amperage that run could consume. You don't want to add wiring for a 2A camera connected directly to the car's 20A run, so you put a 2A fuse inline with the camera. This is particularly important if the wire gauges differ.

In any case, if the wires got crossed at where he tapped the 12V connector or prior to the camera's ~2A fuse, it could have blown the car's fuse.



I don't recall the fuse position you need, but it's in the frunk. Pull up the owner's manual on the 17" display. It has an extensive listing of the fuse locations and their purpose with a handy graphic. If you don't have a low-amp fuse in line with the camera, make sure you put one in.

Thanks for explaining that . Makes perfect sense. Told you I wasn't an electrician. If you need advise on an MRI I'm the guy.