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How can I get Tesla to stage firmware for a DIY part swap?

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Anyone have any updates to this thread/methods?
I replaced my onboard charger and the HV contactor won't turn on since the firmware in the new charger is different. Need to redeploy firmware. Waiting on my FAKRA HSD cable to do a telnet redeploy but I'm impatient and my car won't work.
 
Or the password isn't "service
One other trick you can do. I’m giving these instructions to you from memory, but generally here they are...

Drive to your service center (geofencing is involved here which is why you need to be near a service center). Once there, go to Software on the MCU and hold down your finger on the Model S/P85 logo for a few seconds to open the service code menu. Type in “Service” and the service menu will then appear as an option in the MCU. Then you can request a full firmware restage via a button. It’ll take a while to become ready (you don’t have to wait at the service center) but the key is just to push the request redeploy button.

then do the same code to turn off service mode and drive home.

And you’ll have manually requested a redeploy
This is the best hack no one knows about (in the wider diy Tesla community). Has come in handy for me yet again since the post was made.
 
Ok, so I was going to drive to the Tesla SC today and try this out, but after a whole year of not getting any MCU1 firmware updates, I go out to the car and see this!
1644964976406.png


Now, I'll disconnect the 12V, replace my on-board charger and then do the software update. This coincidence couldn't have come at a better time!!!
 
Holy *sugar*...it worked!

Replaced on-board charger. Got about a dozen errors. "Can't charge, can't start, service required, you suck and shouldn't have replaced the charger, etc..."

Did the 2021 firmware update. Got to the last component update and it did a bunch of clicking and flashing lights. Rebooted and immediately dropped all the errors! Charging at a full 48 amps now! Used to only charge at 24 amps.
 
I never heard about Service Mode until seeing this thread yesterday. I stopped by the Bellevue, WA service center today during lunch, parked about 10 yards from the garage entrance, and got into service mode. Password is "service", not "Service". I'm driving a March 2021 M3 LR AWD, 2022.4.5.

Hopefully I don't botch things up while playing around with it. Fortunately I saw that the top menu item was to disable the speed limiter, otherwise I would have panicked when it wouldn't go over 7mph. :)
 
Anything else interesting you noticed?
A couple hours after my previous post my wife and I got into the car to go home. It had re-enabled the speed limiter, and after a little fumbling around I found my way back to the initial window of options to re-disable that. But the "Service Mode" pink overlay was making her nervous, so I then got out of service mode. Which means my opportunity to experiment was cut short.

Things I remember:

The pink "Service Mode" screen overlay also included my VIN so I'm not posting any pictures. I did a google image search for "tesla service mode" and it appears the overlay has changed over time. Some show just "Service Mode". Mine had "Service Mode" in (about) 2" letters, the VIN below in ~1", and below that "Speed Limited" or "Speed Limit Removed" in ~1". The overlay is big, distracting, and I assume cannot be disabled without exiting service mode.

In the initial panel where you disable the speed limiter, it also shows an option to re-enable Bluetooth, which I did. I assume that not doing that would have prevented phone key, but didn't experiment.

In that same panel there was an option to re-enable API access, but that option was greyed out and inaccessible. I didn't get to play around with that. I think I recall an option to re-enable Wi-Fi, so perhaps they're trying to be smart and only allow you to enable APIs if the car has connectivity?

It looks like they generally default to disabling features that make the car accessible, and my guess is it's a combination of both safety and privacy for the shop. The speed limiter seems obvious since the cars' instant acceleration could be deadly in the shop. As for API access: you wouldn't want the customer dorking with the car while it's on the stand, nor using remote camera access to watch you via remote sentry, either. Once I left service mode the phone app automatically started working.

I quickly stumbled across a button to re-stage the software. I did not try it. There were several other buttons on that screen, including the one to exit service mode. I think that is also where I saw the button for calibrating the steering wheel.

I found my way into a screen for accessing the different cameras. It had a image of the car with call-outs for each camera. My motivation for service mode is that I think the left pillar camera on my car is wonky, but I'd like to see it for myself before involving the service center. I did not have time to experiment, other than the obvious tapping on one of the camera labels on the screen did not enable/show the camera as I expected. I assume that given another 30 seconds I would have found it.

There were a few screens of service procedures (things like draining coolant) that required pressing Ctrl-Alt-Del holding turn stalk up, brake down, and cardkey together for 10s before enabling.

My overall impression is that if you're the person whose friends and family come to for help with software questions then you'll be able to find your way around, or at the very least find your way out. If you're not that person then you probably shouldn't try to enable service mode on your own.
 
Oh, and there was a button for brake burnishing. I entered that, and it explained that it would disable regen, and had warnings to only bed in your brakes when you're on an empty road with nobody behind you. Seems like that would have been nice several months ago when I was bedding in the brakes.
 
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Holy *sugar*...it worked!

Replaced on-board charger. Got about a dozen errors. "Can't charge, can't start, service required, you suck and shouldn't have replaced the charger, etc..."

Did the 2021 firmware update. Got to the last component update and it did a bunch of clicking and flashing lights. Rebooted and immediately dropped all the errors! Charging at a full 48 amps now! Used to only charge at 24 amps.

 
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