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How find out aggressive driving costs?

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Never really looked at my battery figures, but wanted to find out what a good average usage # is that would Kable my driving style as aggressive or not?

I know there are a ton of variables, but is there a good baseline I should look for to see if I’m driving with too heavy of a foot?


Thanks!

(Also using regen off)
 
Look at your energy graph. There is a line for reference consumption (EPA) and then one for your actual consumption over the past 5/15/30 miles. Personally, I think the EPA line is quite optimistic. If you are within 10% of that line, you are doing good.

If you want longer term data (over 30 miles), you'll need to use a data logger such as TeslaFi or Teslamate.
 
Check the Trips screen under Settings. Rename Trip B to be Lifetime and don't reset this one. I have consistently been using an average of ~270 Wh/mile, for almost 2 years. I think if your lifetime consumption is between ~240 Wh/mi and ~300 Wh/mi your consumption is typical.

If you find that your consumption is too high then the most improvement would come from simply slowing down when driving on the highway. Lowering your average speed by 5 MPH will net almost 10% improvement, lower consumption and increase your range. 10 MPH would net you almost 20%.

Keep tires inflated to the recommended 42 PSI (measured in the A.M., cold, before you drive) or even a few pounds higher.

A roof rack, bike rack will increase air resistance and lower your efficiency and range.

A high quality ceramic tint job on all of the glass would increase your efficiency by enabling the climate control system to not have to work as hard to cool the passenger cabin.
 
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Check the Trips screen under Settings. Rename Trip B to be Lifetime and don't reset this one. I have consistently been using an average of ~270 Wh/mile, for almost 2 years. I think if your lifetime consumption is between ~240 Wh/mi and ~300 Wh/mi your consumption is typical.

If you find that your consumption is too high then the most improvement would come from simply slowing down when driving on the highway. Lowering your average speed by 5 MPH will net almost 10% improvement, lower consumption and increase your range. 10 MPH would net you almost 20%.

Keep tires inflated to the recommended 42 PSI (measured in the A.M., cold, before you drive) or even a few pounds higher.

A roof rack, bike rack will increase air resistance and lower your efficiency and range.

A high quality ceramic tint job on all of the glass would increase your efficiency by enabling the climate control system to not have to work as hard to cool the passenger cabin.
These are great tips. Thanks!

How do you rename the trip? Mine just says “start a trip” with nothing in the graph.
 
These are great tips. Thanks!

How do you rename the trip? Mine just says “start a trip” with nothing in the graph.
From the Vehicle Settings Page, select Trips (these are the odometers). From the top, down you will see Current Trip, Since Last Charge, Trip A and Trip B. You can rename Trip A and Trip B by tapping on these on the display screen. Suggest renaming Trip B as Lifetime and not resetting this odometer.
 
All good ideas from jcanoe. I'm right there with him - almost 2 years and 18.5K, averaging 265 wh/mi.

And put regen on and get used to using it - it's great! One foot driving is the best with a little practice and will definitely improve your efficiency. Why did you turn it off?
 
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Check the Trips screen under Settings. Rename Trip B to be Lifetime and don't reset this one. I have consistently been using an average of ~270 Wh/mile, for almost 2 years. I think if your lifetime consumption is between ~240 Wh/mi and ~300 Wh/mi your consumption is typical.

If you find that your consumption is too high then the most improvement would come from simply slowing down when driving on the highway. Lowering your average speed by 5 MPH will net almost 10% improvement, lower consumption and increase your range. 10 MPH would net you almost 20%.

Keep tires inflated to the recommended 42 PSI (measured in the A.M., cold, before you drive) or even a few pounds higher.

A roof rack, bike rack will increase air resistance and lower your efficiency and range.

A high quality ceramic tint job on all of the glass would increase your efficiency by enabling the climate control system to not have to work as hard to cool the passenger cabin.
Thanks for tips!

Looks like my average is 325wh over 20k miles!

Maybe that’s too much acceleration huh??
 
Never really looked at my battery figures, but wanted to find out what a good average usage # is that would Kable my driving style as aggressive or not?

I know there are a ton of variables, but is there a good baseline I should look for to see if I’m driving with too heavy of a foot?


Thanks!

(Also using regen off)
I'm curious .. why do you have regen off? Do you just like wearing out brakes? :)
 
How is ABTP better than the in-car nav?

(I don’t love the in-car, but just wondering…)
Example, with A Better Route Planner (ABRP) you can set your departure state of charge (SOC), Supercharger arrival SOC, Destination arrival SOC. You can set your vehicle type and model, input your anticipated efficiency (Wh/mile) or accept the ABRP default, set the driving speed, maximum speed, outside temperature, road conditions (wet/dry), wind conditions and cargo load. You can also adjust ABRP settings for more frequent or fewer (but longer duration) charging stops. You can add or remove waypoints to a route.

You can download A Better Route Planner (ABRP) onto your phone or access it via the web.

ABRP
 
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I mean you could just look at the app and see how much you're spending per day to charge and see how many miles you drove. I drove 100 miles yesterday and when I click on the charge line for yesterday it cost me $4 seems great to me I drive 80+mph on the highway and gun it all the time just for fun :)
I don't really care about the KW figures on the screen I just look at how far I went and how much I paid.

I guess if you want to get the most stay at a slow speed put it in chill mode etc but where the fun in that.
 
Still waiting for that answer myself - what say ye OP? 😉
So my Y is not my first electric and a few i3s before this so I’m not unfamiliar with regen. Just felt with this one - prob bc of my aggressiveness - that the regen was just holding me back somehow. Made the car feel very jumpy w/o my ability to modulate the start and stops the way I’m used to.

That and I’ve always discounted the savings you get from regen.

Can anyone estimate what I would probably get if I turned it on?
 
I don't think your situation is that unusual. Most people when first getting a Tesla develop a bit of a heavy right foot at the beginning. The torque and acceleration can be addictive. But over time, you'll learn to go for smoother acceleration and better efficiency. It's natural. Plenty of good tips this thread already.
 
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So my Y is not my first electric and a few i3s before this so I’m not unfamiliar with regen. Just felt with this one - prob bc of my aggressiveness - that the regen was just holding me back somehow. Made the car feel very jumpy w/o my ability to modulate the start and stops the way I’m used to.

That and I’ve always discounted the savings you get from regen.

Can anyone estimate what I would probably get if I turned it on?
Challenge yourself to driving with it on and getting used to 1 pedal driving for a few days .. once you get used to it you will never want to go back. As for region contribution to savings, that depends a lot of your driving style and environment, but it can be very significant .. the car is re-capturing a lot of the energy. And not to mention the reduced wear and tear on the brakes.
 
That is the Energy screen, good for tracking energy usage over the most recent 5/15/30 miles or when a trip route has been entered into the Navigation system.
But you can use that EPA reference line on the energy graph as the wh/mi to shoot for on your trip computers.

I don’t have an energy graph on my refresh Model S though (yet, I hope).