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How heavy are the front rotors ?

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You might try contacting these guys and see if they are interested in doing a Model S application. Fully aluminum rotors with steel contact faces bonded to them. Should be very lightweight, and they claim that the larger expansion of the heated aluminum rotor during braking causes the pads to retract more from the rotor when it cools and reduces pad drag. I have no idea how they actually perform.
http://litebrake.com/

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You might try contacting these guys and see if they are interested in doing a Model S application. Fully aluminum rotors with steel contact faces bonded to them.
Interesting idea, I'd be curious to see how they perform 'in the real world'. With the heat cycling a rotor undergoes I'd be suspicious of the durability of the steel-aluminum bond over time, and the comment about the pads retracting is actually a *bad* thing because it increases brake pedal travel before point of engagement.

At the risk of throwing fuel onto the coals, I'd pay $900 for a set of rotors that're substantially lighter weight than stock. I too have put various rotors on my track cars at wildly varying prices, for track purposes rotors are a wear item and get replaced often meaning the expensive options get quickly bypassed for cheap but heavy. A lightweight, long-lasting rotor is different than this.
 
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On a final note, i don't really care to bring them to market. There are several parts I make for my cars, and some people want them. I'm not sure why he is so upset.
My goal with this project is to increase the distance I can travel on 1 electric charge. If it can net me ~15 miles more per charge. I'll be very happy. ( that is with reducing 10lbsx2 each front rotor and 10lbsx2 in the rear for each corner as well. combine of 40lbs total)

I put on a set of wheels that are 15lbs lighter than the stock 21's that came on my car. (20lbs vs. 35lbs) AFAIK there is no discernible difference in Wh/km or range per charge. It appears a much better mod for a larger range per charge is to cover the wheels with a disc for better aero. LRR tires would also help as well...
 
In my very non scientific research I have seen a decent reduction of wh/mi on my car. This is compared to a P85 with 21s. Not the same car mind you but I can keep my energy usage down around 280 wh/mi and the P85 was at 335. Same driving style and same commute. Could have been tires or wheels but either way better energy usage.
 
In my very non scientific research I have seen a decent reduction of wh/mi on my car. This is compared to a P85 with 21s. Not the same car mind you but I can keep my energy usage down around 280 wh/mi and the P85 was at 335. Same driving style and same commute. Could have been tires or wheels but either way better energy usage.
I really hope Tesla opens up (some of the REST API) -- most importantly the telemetry / logging (i.e. not the commands) -- to alternate login credentials.
I also hope they offer a solution that doesn't require tying up their servers and the *G on the car to get this data.

If one or both of these are offered, it becomes much easier for more of the Tesla ownership population to provide statistics on the overall performance characteristics of the vehicles. For example, it would have been nice for every Model S owner to have the option of having access to the entire first year of their own telemetry data so that they can compare, say, June 2012 to June 2013.

Relevance to the quoted section: I think a lot of the differences/improvements we're seeing are a combination of weather changes (seasonal, mostly) and driver experience.
 
I don't know what the difference is between the new rotors and old but I have new front rotors after my 1 year service. Apparently they have a new design from the originals, and the pads have counter weights now too. I was wondering if lightweight rotors would help a little but more interested in trying a set of 9" / 10" staggered wheels w/ racing rubber