Try JB weld. Used it on a similar type of leak (antifreeze) on my old NSX. Worked great for at least 8 years (sold the car).
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
How I fixed my air suspension leak for $1.00
- Thread starter johnr
- Start date
davidc18
Active Member
can anyone post the cost of repair out of warranty? The back end of mine is settling all the way down overnight.
davidc18
Active Member
I have this failure on my 2013 P85.
@Muffinman, could you please post what parts Tesla replaced and what the cost was?
FWIW, I’m not having that symptom. I sometimes don’t have all ride heights available on center screen. Sometimes get a yellow or red air suspension indicator on IC. Probably when I drive through a memory location to auto raise. Surprisingly never had an alert text on center display.
@Muffinman, could you please post what parts Tesla replaced and what the cost was?
davidc18
Active Member
I did not find anything amiss below the frunk. I'll pull the back wheels off next to see what I can find.
I tried to order the part “AIR SUSPENSION AIR LINE ASSEMBLY VALVE TO COMPRESSOR (USE WITH IN-LINE FILL VALVE) 6006522-00-B” but its currently backordered.
I took air line out and the hole is small.
I put some superglue on the area with the hole and put it back together. When I put the car in drive the compressor ran and shut off but the height still wouldn’t change. Drove more for a quick errand and when I got back home tried again. All working now.
It’s the wires for the brake vacuum pump that rub on the air line. I mistakenly thought it was a cable tie through a clip. After I cut it I could see that it is one piece and the cable tie part can be released and pulled tight again.
A regular cable tie is holding the wires now on my car.
I took air line out and the hole is small.
I put some superglue on the area with the hole and put it back together. When I put the car in drive the compressor ran and shut off but the height still wouldn’t change. Drove more for a quick errand and when I got back home tried again. All working now.
It’s the wires for the brake vacuum pump that rub on the air line. I mistakenly thought it was a cable tie through a clip. After I cut it I could see that it is one piece and the cable tie part can be released and pulled tight again.
A regular cable tie is holding the wires now on my car.
Attachments
davidc18
Active Member
I think settling down would more likely be the solenoid block or an air shock leaking. 
You could check the reservoir pressure at the schrader valve. Mine is inline between compressor and reservoir. If you have a P85D it may be on the tank.
The pressure could be up to 150 psi so be cautious.
You could check the reservoir pressure at the schrader valve. Mine is inline between compressor and reservoir. If you have a P85D it may be on the tank.
The pressure could be up to 150 psi so be cautious.
davidc18
Active Member
My 2015 model S cost approximately $1600 for the diagnosis and replacement of the air compressor and fuses out of warranty. And I was just quoted another $700 to remove and replace “air suspension primary line bundle” because it was a leak that had burnt up my air compressor. (I wasn’t sure because even in jack mode my compressor wouldn’t shut off!)
I'm so glad I found this post! I have this same color coded configuration in my 2015 S. Even with the better routing and line holders I had the same symptoms. I just checked the line and sure enough the blue line had been rubbing up against the shock near the tire. I put some epoxy over the hole last night so I'm hoping that will hold for a while.
A mechanic friend found this post for me… So my 2019 Model S had a lot of the same symptoms I’ve read through here. Tesla SC told me their was a hole in the air suspension line from rubbing on another metal tube. That led to a leak that they said caused moisture to spill on the solenoid, causing the solenoid to fail. That was fixed then we got the car home and the front end went completely flat, wheel wells sitting on the top of the front tires. The car was towed 100 miles to the SC and they said the compressor needed to be replaced now. Odd that just the front end would go flat if the compressor went bad. Sounds like a design and layout flaw led to the leak that’s cascaded quite a bit of suspension issues and costly repairs we are having. Any thoughts on why just the front end would go flat if the compressor was bad?
So my 2019 Model S had a lot of the same symptoms I’ve read through here. Tesla SC told me their was a hole in the air suspension line from rubbing on another metal tube. That led to a leak that they said caused moisture to spill on the solenoid, causing the solenoid to fail. That was fixed then we got the car home and the front end went completely flat, wheel wells sitting on the top of the front tires. The car was towed 100 miles to the SC and they said the compressor needed to be replaced now. Odd that just the front end would go flat if the compressor went bad. Sounds like a design and layout flaw led to the leak that’s cascaded quite a bit of suspension issues and costly repairs we are having. Any thoughts on why just the front end would go flat if the compressor was bad?
Quick update note: it's been more than two years since the fix, and it's still working well. The initial fix with epoxy only held up for a few weeks, but I'm happy to repost that the re-fix via plastic welding proved to be a permanent solution. This should work well for anyone experiencing the same issue I was - the plastic tube getting worn from rubbing - as long as there's no other issue with your system.
Thank you very much Johnr for the tip on fixing the hose
I have 2013 Model S P85+ and I have the exact same problem. There is a dent and a pin hole as a result of rubbing against an electrical cable.
I used JB Weld Epoxy and then once dried I wrapped with silicone fuse tape. Like Johnr I also used a ziptie to tie down electrical cable to prevent future rubbing.
I notice my air compressor was not pumping air immediately when I power up the car. I filled the air compressor tank to 75 psi and I haven't heard any leak.
I have 2013 Model S P85+ and I have the exact same problem. There is a dent and a pin hole as a result of rubbing against an electrical cable.
I used JB Weld Epoxy and then once dried I wrapped with silicone fuse tape. Like Johnr I also used a ziptie to tie down electrical cable to prevent future rubbing.
I notice my air compressor was not pumping air immediately when I power up the car. I filled the air compressor tank to 75 psi and I haven't heard any leak.
Last edited:
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Compressor should kick on at about 80 psi, and kick off at about 140 IIRC.
Thanks Aggmeister
I had pumped air compressor tank to 75 psi yesterday. Today it's around 135 psi. I think my compressor kicked off while driving or last night.
Interesting on the pipe wear leak issue here - If you can get the rest of the line off, then i would expect you could replace it with a with something like a custom made break line type pipe. A lot of small garages make these up for older cars.
Just noting for others and future compressor things :
The compressor looks similar to most air suspension compressors. Typically Wabco but sometimes made under licence without branding, though Telsa does have a lot of vertical integration, so could be custom.
I know this from having an Audi A8 and refurbishing the compressor on that car a few times using these type kits which worked well - There MAY be differences, but am guessing the principles are the same and ~£25 vs £1000 - Obvs those kits are for different cars but I'm betting the principles are the same and one could be made for these (or may be the same sizes) as they wear their seals.
Just noting for others and future compressor things :
The compressor looks similar to most air suspension compressors. Typically Wabco but sometimes made under licence without branding, though Telsa does have a lot of vertical integration, so could be custom.
I know this from having an Audi A8 and refurbishing the compressor on that car a few times using these type kits which worked well - There MAY be differences, but am guessing the principles are the same and ~£25 vs £1000 - Obvs those kits are for different cars but I'm betting the principles are the same and one could be made for these (or may be the same sizes) as they wear their seals.
tsxl
Member
do you know where is the valve location to manually fill the air tank for a model X?
There's lots of guidance online for model s, but i couldn't locate the model x fill valve yet.
There's lots of guidance online for model s, but i couldn't locate the model x fill valve yet.
