How I got around the need to share my 50 amp supply

[Pemple]

I already had a 50 amp supply in my workshop for a heater and I that’s the closest building to where I will park my M3. I only have sufficient amperage to the workshop for one 50 amp supply but wanted to be able to heat the workshop, charge the M3, and occasionally run a kiln. What to do?

I only need to do any one of these things at a time so I looked at transfer switches but that gets very expensive and complex with three circuits sharing one 50 amp breaker.

So, I went low tech instead. The kiln has a NEMA 6-50 so I dropped a receptacle in for that and then ran a 6-gauge wire out to the parking spot where I’ll have a Wall Connector direct wired. I then ran a new wire up to the heater and put a 6-50 tail on this and the wire to the Tesla Wall Connector.

My plan is to have the plug to the Wall Connector plugged in 99% of the time but on those chilly NJ days I will be able to turn off the breaker, swap plugs, flick the breaker back on to power the heater.

Anyone see any problems with this? See picture below. Thanks!

(Note: the 12-gauge yellow wire isn’t in the box, it goes through the stud...if you were concerned.)

 

[GigaGrunt]

Home Charging Access For Your EV | NeoCharge

Have you considered this?

 

[Pemple]

Home Charging Access For Your EV | NeoCharge

Have you considered this?

I did see that but I need a 6-50 for the kiln, only seemed to deal with two devices but more important, it was $500! I even saw some DIY versions of that. I got the two 6-50 tails on ebay and everything else from Home Depot so I’m in for less than $100, probably closer to $50.

TBH, it just seemed too easy which is why I’m somewhat unsure!

Thanks though.

 

[jstjohnz]

Does that 50A circuit terminate in a sub-panel? If not, why not just install a sub-panel in the workshop with 3 breakers feeding your heater, wall connector, and kiln receptacle. Then just turn on whatever breaker you need.

 

[Pemple]

Does that 50A circuit terminate in a sub-panel? If not, why not just install a sub-panel in the workshop with 3 breakers feeding your heater, wall connector, and kiln receptacle. Then just turn on whatever breaker you need.

it does but the sub panel is full so I would have had to replace it with a bigger one which was a lot more work and cost than I’d thought. I even thought about adding a mini sub-sub-panel with just the three 50 amp breakers but I couldn’t find such a thing I I wondered if it might be against code.

 

[gfunkdave]

I think it's an elegant solution. You should ensure that the 6-50 outlet you have is one of the better ones (not a $10 Home Depot special) so it can stand up better to plugging/unplugging, even though you're not planning on moving the plugs often.

You might also consider hard wiring it and installing a simple transfer switch...something like this:
GE 100 Amp 240-Volt Non-Fused Emergency Power Transfer Switch-TC10323R - The Home Depot

 

[user212_nr]

it does but the sub panel is full so I would have had to replace it with a bigger one which was a lot more work and cost than I’d thought. I even thought about adding a mini sub-sub-panel with just the three 50 amp breakers but I couldn’t find such a thing I I wondered if it might be against code.

Why do you need exactly 3 breakers? This six panel sub-panel costs $32.

It may not be the right one, but they don't look that expensive. Put it right w

Square D Homeline 100 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Outdoor Main Lug Load Center-HOM612L100RBCP - The Home Depot

$18

Square D Homeline 100 Amp 6-Space 12-Circuit Indoor Flush Mount Main Lug Load Center with Cover No Door-HOM612L100FCP - The Home Depot

 

[Pemple]

I think it's an elegant solution. You should ensure that the 6-50 outlet you have is one of the better ones (not a $10 Home Depot special) so it can stand up better to plugging/unplugging, even though you're not planning on moving the plugs often.

You might also consider hard wiring it and installing a simple transfer switch...something like this:
GE 100 Amp 240-Volt Non-Fused Emergency Power Transfer Switch-TC10323R - The Home Depot

I actually picked up one of those and then returned it as I still had the issue of having three devices although I could have used it for the two main ones (wall connector and heater) and dropped a 6-50 for the kiln from one of those. It was a close second though!

 

[user212_nr]

I actually picked up one of those and then returned it as I still had the issue of having three devices although I could have used it for the two main ones (wall connector and heater) and dropped a 6-50 for the kiln from one of those. It was a close second though!

I'm not sure what you are talking about, but there is no problem after installing an additional sub panel.

The sub panel can be fed from the existing sub-panel, providing you with additional breaker spaces. You unplug one device from the existing sub-panel and plug that device into the new subpanel, then use the empty space to feed the sub panel. This provides you with n-1 spaces, so if you bought the linked panel it would be 11 new spaces.

It would look better to buy the expensive panel with many spaces, but adding a sub panel to a sub-panel means that you only need to rewire one device rather than all the others and the main feed.

 

[MN-MS100D]

OP: I hate to be a debbie downer, but I have a few comments on what probably is an issue (that can be corrected) . The cord and plug you wired to the junction box is undoubtedly fine stranded cable (not class B or C), so it need to terminate to the building wiring using an approved termination that is rated for fine stranded wire. I do not know of any wirenuts that are rated for fine stranded wire, and if there are--someone please let me know. Also, if you used polaris or clear taps, they are not rated for the fine stranded wire on the cord wire either unless they are so marked. Please comfirm that you used hi-press lugs on the FSW or as some say here on these forums "ferrules" when you use lugs rated for standard wire.

 

[Pemple]

OP: I hate to be a debbie downer, but I have a few comments on what probably is an issue (that can be corrected) . The cord and plug you wired to the junction box is undoubtedly fine stranded cable (not class B or C), so it need to terminate to the building wiring using an approved termination that is rated for fine stranded wire. I do not know of any wirenuts that are rated for fine stranded wire, and if there are--someone please let me know. Also, if you used polaris or clear taps, they are not rated for the fine stranded wire on the cord wire either unless they are so marked. Please comfirm that you used hi-press lugs on the FSW or as some say here on these forums "ferrules" when you use lugs rated for standard wire.

Not at all - this was the kind of response I was hoping for...one that might stop me from burning down the workshop...or failing an inspection!

I had a licensed electrician install the receptacle so I am going to assume that was done correctly as he's pretty experienced.

You are right in thinking that the cables to the junction boxes are stranded. The short runs internally have 7 strands and the wires that I ran 50' to the wall connector have maybe 20 strands. I connected them in the junction boxes using winged wire connectors that claimed to be for 2# 6 gauge wires, (Commercial Electric Winged Wire Connectors, Blue (6-Pack)-778305 - The Home Depot). I did look for lugs but didn't see anything that looked appropriate other than for the ground. They're in there pretty tight and felt secure for what that's worth!

Would you suggest that I replace the connectors with lugs? If so, any pointers wrt what I am looking for? I'll go to the electrical supply store not Home Depot!

Thanks again for the response.

 

[MN-MS100D]

Here is an insulated tap in the size and flex wiring that would work, but now you need to make sure your box is large enough to accommodate all of them. Your SOW plug cord falls under Class K or Class M stranding. You are correct that you'll probably need to go to a electfrical distributor. Ask them to look up connectors listed for fine stranded wire. They might have a cheaper option that what I posted below:

BISR500FX | Burndy

 

[Pemple]

Here is an insulated tap in the size and flex wiring that would work, but now you need to make sure your box is large enough to accommodate all of them. Your SOW plug cord falls under Class K or Class M stranding. You are correct that you'll probably need to go to a electfrical distributor. Ask them to look up connectors listed for fine stranded wire. They might have a cheaper option that what I posted below:

BISR500FX | Burndy

Thanks!! I’ll look into this and if I need to change out the boxes I’ll do that too. Really appreciate the guidance!