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How in the world do you keep a white car clean?
- Thread starter Citi11411
- Start date
Opticoat..or some better ceramic coating helps a lot
I have a grey S that never gets dirty. the white 3...eek!
opticoat helps a lot though. makes a simple wipe w/ optimum no rinse make it super clean
the first(only) wash I did when the white car was new was a PITA, the stuff was pretty stuck on.
wash clay bar IPA and opticoat takes a few hours but cleaning later is so much easier. lots of stuff just doesn't stick too
I use Opti-Seal and Optimum no rinse wash, and it's also a great combo.
Depending on how much you drive it and where you park it you can also consider a cover. I cover mine since it's parked outdoor on the street and it takes a min to put it on or take it off and keeps the car clean between driving. Just a thought!
StealthP3D
Well-Known Member
This^
I just use a quality wax which allows me to clean it with just a quick spray with a hose sprayer.
I like this for a gorgeous look and adequate protection:
https://www.amazon.com/P21S-12700W-Carnauba-Wax/dp/B002LOP5E4
But this is much more durable, looks almost as well and costs less:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002P3ZO2...um=7&tag=fullgleam-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
I'm really liking the second option these days (Collinite Super Doublecoat). It's main disadvantage is it's not quite as friendly to black plastic or rubber trim pieces. You need to keep it off black things or it will leave a white haze.
Most people wax wrong (spend too much time). All the work is in the washing/cleaning before you wax. The key to waxing is to understand how long it's going to take for the wax to start to harden which means it's the perfect time to lightly "lay it out" into the (almost) final polish. The timing is different in different conditions. This difference is accommodated by increasing the amount of area covered to suit the current temperature/humidity. Apply to a smaller area before a very light buffing in warmer/dryer/less calm conditions and a larger area in colder/humid/more calm conditions. When it's around 40 degrees and 95 % humidity with no wind I can apply to half the car before "laying it out".
"Laying it out" is just a super light buff, with almost no pressure to evenly distribute the wax layer that is just starting to harden. With the waxes above, they don't really start to haze like some other waxes, at least not on a white car, but you can tell it's ready by the slight amount of drag it applies to your microfiber polishing rag. This is the easiest step of all. It's just a super light and fast pass to lay it all out evenly. Then continue on other areas while the wax continues to harden. After an hour or more (or even the next day if you're not going to drive the car) you can buff the wax layer with a clean microfiber towel. This is also a very easy step, still with light pressure, but enough to achieve a good shine.
The initial wax application is easy too. If the car is really clean (and it should be before you wax), just apply a thin layer (just enough that everything has some coverage) in small, fast circular movements with just enough pressure to ensure it's getting into the pores of the paint.
The difficult part is the initial paint prep (although once it's done properly you can skimp on this for the next two to three years as long as you keep up on the washing and occasional additions of wax). The initial prep involves polishing the clearcoat to remove all dirt and smooth the surface. To do it properly, especially the first time, is a lot of work. More pressure is used and a lot of polishing in small areas is used to clean the pores and smooth the surface of the clear coat. I like this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/P21S-Paintwo...p_89:P21S&rnid=2528832011&s=automotive&sr=1-5
Once you have the paint all prepped, waxing is quick and fun. And dirt just hoses off. Occasionally wash well with a non-wax stripping car wash soap. And a few times a year add another coat of wax before the old one dissappears.
I was gonna say the OP should get a black car and then he can appreciate how much cleaner the white is after just a couple hours lol.
White or most light colors easiest to keep clean. I won't have a dark car after my black, C6. Don't know what you're talking about.
Kilotango74
Active Member
The whole reason I’m getting white is because darker colors are a pain to keep clean.
Glamisduner
Active Member
on the 3, all the dirt and dust from sitting out on the day, drips to the back from the humidity at night and then getting on the freeway. Most of the car looks clean but seldom does the back. It's very noticeable on white.
Silver is easiest IMO, but they discontinued that color.
Silver is easiest IMO, but they discontinued that color.
SaloonGoon
2020 PD3+ 2021 PDY 2019 AUDI R8P
joebruin77
Active Member
I recommend 2 steps:
Step 1 - Paint protection.
As others have mentioned, apply your preferred type of paint protection asap and keep applying it as recommended by the manufacturer. Some, like StealthP3D above, like the carnauaba waxes. If you go this route, I also recommend the Collinite family of waxes. They are very durable. However, if you have any PPF on your car, they may not be PPF safe. A few months ago, I had contacted Collinite to ask if their waxes were PPF safe and they said in reply that they are "in the process of testing on PPF and their safety for PPF has not been determined yet".
I personally have shifted away from the traditional carnauaba waxes and have been using ceramic-infused spray sealants. My new favorite is The Last Coat 2. I also like and recommend OptiCoat Hyper Seal and Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray Wax. These spray sealants are much easier and faster to apply than traditional carnauba waxes and they are much more durable and last longer between applications. Most importantly, you can use them on all exterior surfaces, including black trim, glass, and chrome. Not only will they not get white stains or smudges on your black trim, they will actually protect them and keep the black trim from fading.
If you want to go for the most and longest lasting protection, you can consider PPF and /or ceramic coatings. They are amazing but do cost $$$.
Step 2 - Washing
Once your car has adequate paint protection applied, the key to keeping it clean is to wash it frequently and not let the dust/dirt build up. I will do a traditional wash maybe once every 6 months. I mainly do rinseless washes (using ONR) or waterless washes about once a week. As long as you do not have caked on dirt, waterless washes are quick, easy, and effective. But you do have to use proper technique to avoid scratching the paint. BTW, another advantage of a PPF-covered car is that you do not have to be as careful when doing a waterless wash. Since PPF is self-healing, any scratches or swirls just disappear after about 20 minutes in the heat of the sun.
In addition to ONR for rinseless washes, I have used and recommend these waterless washes:
Meguiar's® Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax, D11501, 1 Gallon, Liquid | Meguiar's
McKee's 37 Waterless Wash On The Go Concentrate makes several gallons of ready to use waterless car wash!
But remember, both of these waterless washes contain waxes and/or gloss enhancers. So do NOT use them if you are about to apply a wax or sealant. You don't want any waxes or gloss enhancers on the paint before applying a wax or sealant, as they will prevent proper bonding to the paint. For washing just prior to applying a sealant or wax, I would suggest either a traditional wash using something like Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo or, if you want to go rinseless, Mckees37 n914:
N-914 Rinseless Wash, D-114, D114
Step 1 - Paint protection.
As others have mentioned, apply your preferred type of paint protection asap and keep applying it as recommended by the manufacturer. Some, like StealthP3D above, like the carnauaba waxes. If you go this route, I also recommend the Collinite family of waxes. They are very durable. However, if you have any PPF on your car, they may not be PPF safe. A few months ago, I had contacted Collinite to ask if their waxes were PPF safe and they said in reply that they are "in the process of testing on PPF and their safety for PPF has not been determined yet".
I personally have shifted away from the traditional carnauaba waxes and have been using ceramic-infused spray sealants. My new favorite is The Last Coat 2. I also like and recommend OptiCoat Hyper Seal and Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic Spray Wax. These spray sealants are much easier and faster to apply than traditional carnauba waxes and they are much more durable and last longer between applications. Most importantly, you can use them on all exterior surfaces, including black trim, glass, and chrome. Not only will they not get white stains or smudges on your black trim, they will actually protect them and keep the black trim from fading.
If you want to go for the most and longest lasting protection, you can consider PPF and /or ceramic coatings. They are amazing but do cost $$$.
Step 2 - Washing
Once your car has adequate paint protection applied, the key to keeping it clean is to wash it frequently and not let the dust/dirt build up. I will do a traditional wash maybe once every 6 months. I mainly do rinseless washes (using ONR) or waterless washes about once a week. As long as you do not have caked on dirt, waterless washes are quick, easy, and effective. But you do have to use proper technique to avoid scratching the paint. BTW, another advantage of a PPF-covered car is that you do not have to be as careful when doing a waterless wash. Since PPF is self-healing, any scratches or swirls just disappear after about 20 minutes in the heat of the sun.
In addition to ONR for rinseless washes, I have used and recommend these waterless washes:
Meguiar's® Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax, D11501, 1 Gallon, Liquid | Meguiar's
McKee's 37 Waterless Wash On The Go Concentrate makes several gallons of ready to use waterless car wash!
But remember, both of these waterless washes contain waxes and/or gloss enhancers. So do NOT use them if you are about to apply a wax or sealant. You don't want any waxes or gloss enhancers on the paint before applying a wax or sealant, as they will prevent proper bonding to the paint. For washing just prior to applying a sealant or wax, I would suggest either a traditional wash using something like Meguiars Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo or, if you want to go rinseless, Mckees37 n914:
N-914 Rinseless Wash, D-114, D114
I use Optimum wax yearly and it just needs a quick detailer in summer and a quick pressure wash and wipe dry in winter. Usually wax in spring time as by the end of winter the coating from the wax and quick detailer that builds up is usually gone after pressure washing all the salt and grime off weekly. Since I clean weekly or bi-weekly (whenever it gets dirty from snow or rain) it typically takes no more than 15'
Not on the windows. There are dark stains that develop from the water draining in certain locations like the doors. Probably dry clay at when it gets warmer out.
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