How long do brake pads last?

[FVO]

So I went and got aftermarket pads from Rock Auto. Powerstop 161474A pads for $18.14 + shipping. A bit cheaper than the $207 pads from Tesla. They visually look identical to the Tesla pads and they are ceramic like the Tesla pads. Actually I am glad I decided to do these myself. I learned a lot. What I found on my front breaks was very ugly.

I found out that my brake pads were wearing unevenly. The Brembo brake calipers don't do well in salty environments. The outer pad was significantly worn. The inner pad had almost no wear. It turns out the inner pads were completely frozen. Not even touching the rotor (the inner side of the rotors was rusty). I was only getting half of my front braking force! I noticed the inner pad was cracking due to flexing from being stuck on the outside sliding surface with the caliper pistons pushing from the middle. Also, the outer pads were beginning to freeze as well, I noticed the brakes were dragging a bit. What is happening is the pads (which are steel backing plate) slide on the caliper (which is aluminum) corrode and jam up (perhaps galvanic corrosion?). So they won't slide. To fix this I removed the caliper and pad pins, pounded and pried out the old pads. Cleaned up the corrosion on the sliding surface on the calipers, and generously applied anti-seize to the slide surface. Hopefully this will prevent the issue from re-occurring too quickly. I will probably make this a yearly routing in the spring where I re-apply the anti-seize to the calipers and pads. Perhaps this will make the pads last a lot longer than 100K miles.

Huge improvement in stopping ability and wh/mi efficiency in my car after this service.

Did you take some pics. of this job?
I'm also considering doing this myself (did it always myself on my motorbike)

 

[The Duke]

Not our car, but same brakes.

 

[glhs272]

Did you take some pics. of this job?
I'm also considering doing this myself (did it always myself on my motorbike)

I have a few pics, not sure if they are helpful. I did this as part of the front wheel bearing replacements. I originally did this brake job by just replacing the pads. That turned out to be a bad decision, and had to re-do the job replacing the rotors as well. The original rotors had a piece flake off shortly after replacing the pads, thus you feel this "bad spot" in the brake pedal. Very annoying. Also, during the repair I noticed the wheel bearings were worn out (noisy and loose). I didn't have wheel bearings during the original job, so ended up having to do this job all over again once I finally had all the parts I needed.

To summarize the brake replacements:
1) buy the replacement parts. I bought aftermarket brake parts, not directly from Tesla as I found their prices outrageous. I bought replacement brake rotors and pads from R1 Concepts. I bought the plain rotors (oem equivalent) and pads as a kit, $183.90 for both rotors and pads. Later I found a 10% discount on that price by registering a user account on their website. I bought replacement wheel bearings directly from Tesla at $138.15 for each wheel bearing. I did not buy new brake hardware (pins and retainer), although I recommend doing so. My retainer (metal clip piece) was cracked on one side.
2)Make sure you have the tools. Floor jack, Lug wrench (21mm), Torx screw (can't remember what size) to remove the rotor, 18mm socket to remove the caliper and wheel bearings, a punch to remove the pads from the caliper (can't remember what diameter), and some quick clamps to squeeze the caliper pistons.
3)jack up the car, remove the wheel. Knock the brake pad pins out. Remove the two 18mm bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. Pull the caliper off the rotor. I used a couple blocks of wood to support the caliper and not pull on the brake hose. Also helped prevent scratching the paint on the caliper. Remove the pads from the caliper. Clean the caliper up. Use the quick clamps to push the pistons back into the caliper (i used 4 quick clamps, one each piston).
4)use the torx socket to remove the one brake rotor holding screw. remove the rotor.
5) at this point I also changed the wheel bearings (optional). Just 4 18mm bolts hold that on.
6) re-assemble everything in reverse order.

 

[Lloyd]

70K miles and still have 50%

 

[FVO]

I have a few pics, not sure if they are helpful. I did this as part of the front wheel bearing replacements. I originally did this brake job by just replacing the pads. That turned out to be a bad decision, and had to re-do the job replacing the rotors as well. The original rotors had a piece flake off shortly after replacing the pads, thus you feel this "bad spot" in the brake pedal. Very annoying. Also, during the repair I noticed the wheel bearings were worn out (noisy and loose). I didn't have wheel bearings during the original job, so ended up having to do this job all over again once I finally had all the parts I needed.

To summarize the brake replacements:
1) buy the replacement parts. I bought aftermarket brake parts, not directly from Tesla as I found their prices outrageous. I bought replacement brake rotors and pads from R1 Concepts. I bought the plain rotors (oem equivalent) and pads as a kit, $183.90 for both rotors and pads. Later I found a 10% discount on that price by registering a user account on their website. I bought replacement wheel bearings directly from Tesla at $138.15 for each wheel bearing. I did not buy new brake hardware (pins and retainer), although I recommend doing so. My retainer (metal clip piece) was cracked on one side.
2)Make sure you have the tools. Floor jack, Lug wrench (21mm), Torx screw (can't remember what size) to remove the rotor, 18mm socket to remove the caliper and wheel bearings, a punch to remove the pads from the caliper (can't remember what diameter), and some quick clamps to squeeze the caliper pistons.
3)jack up the car, remove the wheel. Knock the brake pad pins out. Remove the two 18mm bolts holding the caliper to the suspension. Pull the caliper off the rotor. I used a couple blocks of wood to support the caliper and not pull on the brake hose. Also helped prevent scratching the paint on the caliper. Remove the pads from the caliper. Clean the caliper up. Use the quick clamps to push the pistons back into the caliper (i used 4 quick clamps, one each piston).
4)use the torx socket to remove the one brake rotor holding screw. remove the rotor.
5) at this point I also changed the wheel bearings (optional). Just 4 18mm bolts hold that on.
6) re-assemble everything in reverse order.

Thanks, but i'm beginning to think that the calipers are seized.
I'll try upload a movie wich will show it.

20180427_203423.mp4

 

[FVO]

I found the cause of my problem.

The inner brakepad (on both front wheels) is sticking on to the cilinders!
I was able to:
-remove the outer brakepads
-push the inner brakepad a millimeter back
So the front wheels are turning back without any frictionnoise

But i am not able to remove the innerbrake pad.
It looks like it is completely "glued" to the cilinders.

Any clues on how to get these brakepads loose? WD40 an gentil knocks with a hammer?

And! Another ascertainment is the spring on the right-hand side is broken! Any ideas how this is possible?

DSCN5173.MOV
DSCN5174.MOV

 

[glhs272]

I found the cause of my problem.

The inner brakepad (on both front wheels) is sticking on to the cilinders!
I was able to:
-remove the outer brakepads
-push the inner brakepad a millimeter back
So the front wheels are turning back without any frictionnoise

But i am not able to remove the innerbrake pad.
It looks like it is completely "glued" to the cilinders.

Any clues on how to get these brakepads loose? WD40 an gentil knocks with a hammer?

And! Another ascertainment is the spring on the right-hand side is broken! Any ideas how this is possible?

DSCN5173.MOV
DSCN5174.MOV

Yes, this is the same issue I had with my original set of brake pads. Very common issue. The good news is your calipers are very likely just fine. It is very unlikely the pistons in the caliper itself are seized. The fix is to simply go about the process of replacing the brake pads. What happens is the bake pad gets corroded and stuck at the outer edge of the pad (metal part) that comes in contact with the caliper. It's not stuck to the pistons, but the outer edges of the pads that contact the caliper. Basically remove the pins that hold in the pads, remove the capiler from the rotor. then remove the pad that comes out freely. Finally, remove the pad that is stuck. first by perhaps tapping it lightly with a hammer or even prying on it gently (make sure not to pry on the seals near the pistons. Once you get the pads out off the caliper, you will see the face of the caliper that the pads slide on. This face needs to be cleaned up (such as emery cloth) lightly. remove any corrosion there.

My "spring" was also broken/cracked in the exact same way. Not sure how.

 

[FVO]

Basically remove the pins that hold in the pads,

Check. That's already done.

remove the capiler from the rotor

That's something i would like to avoid ( just as bleeding the system) in the first place. Do we know the torque on the bolds needed to re-attach the caliper on the suspension?

As a second option i will not have any other option as to remove the caliper.

 

[FVO]

What happens is the bake pad gets corroded and stuck at the outer edge of the pad (metal part) that comes in contact with the caliper.

I've checked that one. And so far i can't see any corrosion in the gap between brakpad and cilinder. But of course i will know more when i get the pad out.


A demonstration on how seized the brakepad is:
Second attempt

20180428_081518.mp4

 

[FVO]

Ok, i just returned from my local autoparts-store.

First time they heard that, their hint: maybe there is an extra clip somewere wich is preventing is from releasing?
So i'll check that later.
I also asked in what type of vehicle these brakes are also used. It's in a 2013-present Cadillac ATS 2.0 and a 2005-2007 Cadillac STS 3.6. So i will Google that as well.

Nice extra annecdote: new are the brakes 15mm thick (steel included), mine are after 117.000km 13mm...

 

[FVO]

I found the cause!

After removing the caliper from the suspension i got some movement in the pad mm by mm.

With the red lines on the pincture i have indicated where the brakepad was stuck.

 

[FVO]

And now that i learned my lesson...

In the future i'll always clean my brakepads when changing summer/winter-tires

 

[scottm]

And now that i learned my lesson...

In the future i'll always clean my brakepads when changing summer/winter-tires

yep, brake inspection and loosening of pads like this is 1x or 2x per year maintenance, part of my change-over routine too

 

[FVO]

yep, brake inspection and loosening of pads like this is 1x or 2x per year maintenance, part of my change-over routine too

Certainly not a common practice in Belgium and The Netherlands

 

[scottm]

Certainly not a common practice in Belgium and The Netherlands

They probably don't use salted road grit for 4 or 5 months per year in the winters there...

 

[omarsultan]

110K miles, still ~50% left

 

[dhanson865]

I almost never use the brakes, brake pads should last forever. My 217K mile Prius has the original pads and about 85% left.

The last time I put brake pads on any car was almost 20 years ago. Once I stopped buying old beaters I stopped having to put pads on.

Since then 2 Saturns (one totaled, one sold at high mileage), 1 Toyota (collision), 3 Nissans (1 collision, 2 still in use) never changed a brake pad.

I've never had a car past 200,000 miles like yours but my 2005 Prius was heading that way before it got in a collision last month.

I don't expect I'll ever have to change brake pads again on any car I own in the future. Tesla or otherwise.

 

[FVO]

They probably don't use salted road grit for 4 or 5 months per year in the winters there...

O yes we do, maybe not as much, and without little grit stones like in Norway (quantities vary between nothing and 3 months during a whole winter).

110K miles, still ~50% left

Same thing here, i've used 2mm of my brake pads and had still +/-5mm on them ater 117.000km and a trackday. The only thing is... i had to damage them to get them out...
But otherwise i estimate to have gotten 400.000km out of them.

 

[scottm]

I make the same mistake when prying a seized pad from the caliper, I broke a chunk of the pad material off.
So had to buy new pads, not for wear, but for self-inflicted damage.

Lesson learned: do not pry on or use pad material as leverage when using pry tools! It crumbles.

 

[FVO]

I make the same mistake when prying a seized pad from the caliper, I broke a chunk of the pad material off.
So had to buy new pads, not for wear, but for self-inflicted damage.

Lesson learned: do not pry on or use pad material as leverage when using pry tools! It crumbles.

I had no alternative as to damage them. They were so very stuck.