Question:
Is there a better 12V bus I should tap into that gets more amps from the DC-DC converter than what is being sent to the battery (only a few amps it seems)
Details:
I'm interested in getting a decent amount of amps from my car while it's parked at home if I'm in a power emergency situation (i.e. no power) for maybe 2-3 days (as sadly is now a new "normal" in california).
I've read a bunch of threads about this (given at the bottom of this post), please do not tell me that:
1) I should get a powerwall. I'd need to spend $30 to $40K in powerwalls to get the same amount of energy I already have in my car and I already paid for. Sorry, but I'm not spending that much for something I may need once every few years. Load shifting my solar in california is otherwise a straight loss, and PG&E does not allow using powerwalls for time of use power arbitration, so powerwalls are useless to me. I would buy one if it only had the electronics and it plugged into my car to use its lithium that's already there.
I know a powerwall will give me more than the 1000-2000W my system will give, but honestly I don't care. I want 2-3 days of runtime which I won't get if I'm using more than 1kW anyway. I'm ok with an extension cord plugged into an inverter and not feeding my whole house.
Elon, if you are reading this, build this car assisted battery-less powerwall and I'll buy it tomorrow.
2) this voids the warranty. This has been discussed at length. If I break something, I'll pay for it, that's fair.
3) that the battery in the car is way too small to power a proper size inverter (I have a 3000W one to be safe but honestly I only plan on using 1000W peak for my fridge and an average of 200W otherwise when the fridge is on. I already measured this).
What I'm doing
a) I have a huge ass GLA 12V battery, it can power 3000W right now (my fridge and my microwave) through the 3000W inverter. It's already tested, it works. It just won't work super long if I don't recharge it
b) I've connected it directly to the car battery to tap into the 12V system. I don't expect to need or pull 100A or even 50A from the car since my buffer battery can take that load
c) I already have verified that the car will sense the 12V system attached to it (both batteries wired in parallel), are getting low and use the DC-DC converter to recharge. What I read online says it's rated for 2000W (i.e almost 200A), so it should be more than plenty
Everything works great, except I cannot get more than maybe 5A from the car to its 12V system. It's not even what the cigarette lighter adapter is rated for (15A peak). In other words, it charges my batteries slower than they discharge if I plug just a 100W light in my inverter.
I've tried putting the car in drive and even that way, it still doesn't recharge the 12V system faster than it discharges.
Is there a better 12V bus I should tap into that gets more amps from the DC-DC converter than what is being sent to the battery?
Thanks, Marc
Previous threads:
Whats the largest Power Inverter you can use in a Tesla?
Model 3 electric outlet options | Tesla
Can Model 3 keep 12v on without going to sleep?
note that camper mode is not what I need because I'm tapped into the main 12V and it doesn't charge fast enough even if the car in drive:
Eight Hours Overnight In A Tesla Model 3 In Freezing Temps: Video
Is there a better 12V bus I should tap into that gets more amps from the DC-DC converter than what is being sent to the battery (only a few amps it seems)
Details:
I'm interested in getting a decent amount of amps from my car while it's parked at home if I'm in a power emergency situation (i.e. no power) for maybe 2-3 days (as sadly is now a new "normal" in california).
I've read a bunch of threads about this (given at the bottom of this post), please do not tell me that:
1) I should get a powerwall. I'd need to spend $30 to $40K in powerwalls to get the same amount of energy I already have in my car and I already paid for. Sorry, but I'm not spending that much for something I may need once every few years. Load shifting my solar in california is otherwise a straight loss, and PG&E does not allow using powerwalls for time of use power arbitration, so powerwalls are useless to me. I would buy one if it only had the electronics and it plugged into my car to use its lithium that's already there.
I know a powerwall will give me more than the 1000-2000W my system will give, but honestly I don't care. I want 2-3 days of runtime which I won't get if I'm using more than 1kW anyway. I'm ok with an extension cord plugged into an inverter and not feeding my whole house.
Elon, if you are reading this, build this car assisted battery-less powerwall and I'll buy it tomorrow.
2) this voids the warranty. This has been discussed at length. If I break something, I'll pay for it, that's fair.
3) that the battery in the car is way too small to power a proper size inverter (I have a 3000W one to be safe but honestly I only plan on using 1000W peak for my fridge and an average of 200W otherwise when the fridge is on. I already measured this).
What I'm doing
a) I have a huge ass GLA 12V battery, it can power 3000W right now (my fridge and my microwave) through the 3000W inverter. It's already tested, it works. It just won't work super long if I don't recharge it
b) I've connected it directly to the car battery to tap into the 12V system. I don't expect to need or pull 100A or even 50A from the car since my buffer battery can take that load
c) I already have verified that the car will sense the 12V system attached to it (both batteries wired in parallel), are getting low and use the DC-DC converter to recharge. What I read online says it's rated for 2000W (i.e almost 200A), so it should be more than plenty
Everything works great, except I cannot get more than maybe 5A from the car to its 12V system. It's not even what the cigarette lighter adapter is rated for (15A peak). In other words, it charges my batteries slower than they discharge if I plug just a 100W light in my inverter.
I've tried putting the car in drive and even that way, it still doesn't recharge the 12V system faster than it discharges.
Is there a better 12V bus I should tap into that gets more amps from the DC-DC converter than what is being sent to the battery?
Thanks, Marc
Previous threads:
Whats the largest Power Inverter you can use in a Tesla?
Model 3 electric outlet options | Tesla
Can Model 3 keep 12v on without going to sleep?
note that camper mode is not what I need because I'm tapped into the main 12V and it doesn't charge fast enough even if the car in drive:
Eight Hours Overnight In A Tesla Model 3 In Freezing Temps: Video