Here's what I did: I used this 2000W pure sine wave inverter: https://www.amazon.com/SUDOKEJI-Inverter-2000W-Display-Outlets/dp/B07RWHN22W/ref=sr_1_1 200A 12V relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYPTVJD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 100W 1.8Ohm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0XZN1F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 100A energy meter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - battery (or car) connected through relay to the inverter - relay 12V control input connected on the inverter side (this is important, that way it only activates after enough current has travelled to the inverter to fill the massive capacitor) - 1.8Ohm resistor connected across the relay to conduct when the relay is not activated. This stops the current inrush when the inverter powers on and fills its capacitor at over 200A, causing a massive spark if you are connecting the cable (and that's unsafe since it could set off hydrogen sitting on top of a battery). What happens is: 1) battery connected 2) resistor limits current and starts charging the capacitor in the inverter 3) voltage across the inverter starts rising until 10V or whatever 4) once it's enough, the relay is energized and bypasses the resistor 5) now 200A can go to the inverter and no spark/current inrush was created Stopping the inrush is super important because it does disable the DC-DC converter in the car, and that converter is non trivial to reset once it's gone in safety shutoff mode. I tested a 1300W microwave which worked without issues, so did my fridge and other devices. The pure sine wave inverter is very important for a microwave, but a cheaper inverter worked well enough for my fridge and basic loads. Car side, it looks like this. Only downside is that the inverter is "big" . Testing so far seems to show that the car goes to sleep ok, inverter dies, and when the car powers back on, the inverter comes back online without issues. In the case of a power outage, camper mode would be used to keep the car awake Let's talk about voltage drop for 100A (1300W) use: 0.7V was lost in total: - 0.25V lost in each of the two 10AWG cables (good quality) - Extra wire from relay to inverter lost 0.06V - 200A relay only lost 0.06V - 100A shunt for power meter lost 0.1V (and gets warm) Given that the car outputs 13.5 to 14V, this drop is not big enough to matter since the inverter works all the way down to 10V or so.