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kkillebrew
Banned
hezza8
Member
I don't know if polling other owners is going to get you much useful data. It is totally dependent on distance to the electrical panel and number of walls traversed - and even then, there's probably a 50-100% variance in price based on who you hire. A electrical services company with a big internet presence and lots of word of mouth is going to charge more. Getting an individual electrician who does residential work on the side is cheap.
People giving numbers less than $200 are DIY folks, have a short run to the electrical panel, or both. Just getting the work inspected (required in my city) was $120. My all in cost, going through a wall and 50' through the basement joists, was about $1100.
People giving numbers less than $200 are DIY folks, have a short run to the electrical panel, or both. Just getting the work inspected (required in my city) was $120. My all in cost, going through a wall and 50' through the basement joists, was about $1100.
hezza8
Member
BTW, for anyone who has a dryer in their garage, they could consider something like this Our products — EV - PowerShare
Avoid the hassle of dealing with electrician and permits all together.
linuxguyInMD
Member
$650 for 100' of #6 wire with 60amp fuse and permits. I live west of Baltimore, so state of MD provides up to $700 and my power company provides $300. I also had the electrician pull a second set of wiring for $400, we terminated that in an electrical box in the garage for a future EV or resale value.
Jeez, I hate those particular types of devices and don't recommend them. These can be done smartly and the right way by just duplicating the proper type of outlet it is plugged into. But it is dumb to make a 50A outlet type available on a 30A circuit. So I wouldn't recommend one of these that give you a 14-30 and 14-50 from a 14-30 outlet connection.
It looks like that company--Powershare--only offers those versions that are giving a 50A outlet, so I wouldn't recommend them, period.
If you want a device like this, I would be able to recommend the Dryer Buddy only in the "Plus AUTO" version, and only in the version that uses 30A outlet types--not the 14-50. The Plus AUTO version has the auto-switching circuitry to detect if your EVSE is turning on and distable the dryer outlet side or vice versa.
I paid 1350 in NW Florida. Panel was full so had to get a new panel that was 900 of the cost. Mounted outside of brick house, Nema 14-50 Super happy so far. Leave the corded charger that came with the car plugged in with a wall mount hose holder. Got a second charging kit from Tesla so will always have chargers in my car.
RFernatt
Solar/EV Owner/Enthusiast
Not sure, but solar installer threw it in with the install without raising price. Super easy install, though, just 3' from breaker box for 14-50 outlet. I'm sure he did okay on the installation to cover a little time, cable and outlet and electrician was already going to be onsite.
hezza8
Member
Actually it does auto switch, AND it's limiting maximum current to a safe 24AMPs. sounds like a fool proof concept.
CaryRx
Member
I guess I'm still learning things about my car... I didn't realize the onboard AC/DC converter was only able to go up to 48A. I just plug it in when I pull in the garage and forget about it until its time to drive again. I did read up on it after you pointed that out. Thanks!!
CaryRx
Member
In my case, it was just ignorance of what equipment is in my car. I just had the electrician wire it for the Max output of 19.2kw. Tesla seems to be pretty handy at making it difficult to find out specs on its cars. I had heard of the the one vs two onbaord DC-AC converter, but didn't know the specifics. I guess that I will at least have less expense when/if I add a second Tesla and HPWC. I don't think the price would have been that much different for the 100A setup verses if they'd only done it for 50A specs. Mine is hardwired, though, not plugged in.
CaryRx
Member
Your post got me thinking, I had to go back and check to see that I wasn't imagining it, but my car has dual onboard chargers. So, it does charge at 80A - at least up to the point where software limits it at higher SoC. I found this info about VINs to determine your onboard charger configuration.
Digit 7 of your VIN: A or C=single charger, B or D=twin chargers.
TMC is a great resource, but a lot of good info is available on Tesla's website if you search around. (Charging breakers on right side.)
Silver Wall Connector
I measured the 120v 20 amp line my electrician installed, I need about 140 feet of wire. 150' roll is about $250, add to that the 50 amp breaker and a safety switch box; parts alone is about $300 without either a NEMA outlet, Tesla or Chargepoint ($500 utility rebate.) My current 120v currently has a 15 amp outlet. I haven't figured out if I should change the outlet to 20 amp or go 220v. I don't drive far on my daily use. If I drive far, I can charge at work at a 220v ChargePoint station at a lower electrical rate than at home after a weekend. My only complaint is when it is cold out, if I preheat the battery and set it to finish charging before going to work in the morning. If I drive directly to work and back, the battery level winds up lower in the morning than when I plug in and program it to be charged when I leave WHEN the temperature is below 40 deg F. I find it is better to charge when I get home when the battery is warm rather than spend quite a bit of 120v power to heat up the battery in the morning.
Is there an issue driving a couple miles in the morning when the battery is cold >30 deg C garage temperature if I am gentle?
Is there an issue driving a couple miles in the morning when the battery is cold >30 deg C garage temperature if I am gentle?
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