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How much Premium would you Pay for AP1?

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P53347 vs. P49956
For $1,200 more you get AP1, Air Suspension, Dual Charger, and 20% less miles, but stock black paint instead of grey metallic. Draw your own conclusions as to how much AP1 is worth out of that price difference, however no way is it worth any more than $1,000 on a CPO.

I'm not dissing AP1, just stating some pricing facts. If you're interested in my personal opinion, I would be willing to pay up to $750 for AP1 for *my car* but would not want AP1 or EAP in its current state for my wife's car, as she is not a techie and I would see AP1 or EAP a potential hazard (IMO she would start trusting it too much and end up in an accident - almost happened to me and I'm an engineer who works on things like this so I should know better). I would pay $250 for TACC (but no auto-steer) for her car. Will pay Tesla $10K for FSD if Elon delivers on his promises, i.e. the car can drop be off at the airport, go back home, come pick me up a week later when I come back from a business trip - all while I am in the back seat, nobody in the driver's seat.

There are a couple of other factors at play including tan interior on the AP1 car. Comparing nearly identical cars to one another on the CPO site, I've found that black interior usually commands a premium over tan interior, with gray being somewhere in between the two.
 
Hey, all this talk about how much everyone here is willing to pay for AP seems to coincide with Tesla raising the price of the AP1 car I used as the example. It used to be $67,100 - now $72,000. See, who says Tesla doesn't listen to their customers! You said you wanted to pay more, there you have it! :p

EDIT: The price of the non-AP example went up also, but the difference for AP1, Air Suspension and Dual Charger is now $3,900, vs. $1,200 yesterday.
 
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I have to hold the steering wheel in an uncomfortable way (more tightly) than I would when normal driving, to not get nags, so I find it a bit annoying.

You're doing it wrong. There's no "squeeze sensors", only torque (slight turning/resisting force from turning the wheel). Put a single finger on the inside horizontal part of the wheel next time you see a nag and watch it go away with almost no effort. You only have to move the wheel like 1 millimeter.
 
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You're doing it wrong. There's no "squeeze sensors", only torque (slight turning/resisting force from turning the wheel). Put a single finger on the inside horizontal part of the wheel next time you see a nag and watch it go away with almost no effort. You only have to move the wheel like 1 millimeter.

I know its not a squeeze sensor. I can hang my hands on the wheel at 3 and 9 with my normal grip and it will not sense them. When I get the warning I sometimes have to physically move the wheel almost to disengaging AP to get the car to sense me. So if I firmly grip the wheel at the 3 and 9 position and consciously slightly resist the turning force I am OK. I can hang one hand heavily at 3 and that works. I can not rest one hand lightly at 4-5 o'clock (a comfortable long trip spot for me) and have it sense properly. So it gets tiring over time.

There were threads on this when the nags first increased that some cars have less sensitive sensors than others. People often getting warnings WITH their hands on the wheel. Tesla's position has been they are all "within spec" for folks who took their cars in.

Which is something I always wonder about when I hear Tesla use the wheel sensor logs as gospel as to whether or not someone had their hands on the wheel after an accident.
 
I have a 2013 P85.

After having an 85D with AP1 for a loaner earlier this year I told myself AP1 is easily worth $5k to me, maybe as much as $10k for FSD. I have a 70mi round trip daily commute and AP1 worked flawlessly for the 65mi that are divided four lane. I love my car but definitely missed AP1 after I gave the loaner back.
 
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You might be in traffic forever if you're AP'ing in NJ/NYC rush hour. To me it's only useful for long trips (~3hrs?) that happens maybe a couple times every few months. Not worth the premium for AP cars. I'm a driver, not a lazy bum. With that said, this one is tough to put a price on but I'm glad someone turned down my reasonable offer for a 85D AP and I will be saving myself a substantial amount of money.
 
I know its not a squeeze sensor. I can hang my hands on the wheel at 3 and 9 with my normal grip and it will not sense them. When I get the warning I sometimes have to physically move the wheel almost to disengaging AP to get the car to sense me. So if I firmly grip the wheel at the 3 and 9 position and consciously slightly resist the turning force I am OK. I can hang one hand heavily at 3 and that works. I can not rest one hand lightly at 4-5 o'clock (a comfortable long trip spot for me) and have it sense properly. So it gets tiring over time.

There were threads on this when the nags first increased that some cars have less sensitive sensors than others. People often getting warnings WITH their hands on the wheel. Tesla's position has been they are all "within spec" for folks who took their cars in.

Which is something I always wonder about when I hear Tesla use the wheel sensor logs as gospel as to whether or not someone had their hands on the wheel after an accident.

I've found that the system will always nag you unless you're frequently applying torque to the steering wheel (resisting Autopilot). Just wait for the nag, then apply a little torque to clear the warning. Rather than trying to prevent nags, just respond to them when they happen.

The car basically just does a status check on the driver randomly (or when it's a little confused) and wants a steering response from the driver.