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How to add a new aftermarket amplifier and sub?

Discussion in 'Model S: Interior & Exterior' started by yobigd20, Nov 24, 2013.

  1. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    There's been a few threads on here in the past with regards to aftermarket sound. I have yet to actually see any detailed posts of installations. Starting a new thread here to hopefully get some new answers. I know Dr Taras as well as Tony Hawk had their's done by Al & Eds, and I think a few people may have just done something like replace the stock speakers.

    What I am looking for is some details descriptions/answers how some of the more advanced installs were done.

    For example, what are the technical difficulties? Were you limited to a certain amp power since the 12V battery is small? Did you have to use any farad caps or extra batteries? or any other technical mods needed?

    What were some of the choices you had to make and why?

    And this one question is the one that I'm dying most to get the answer for: WHERE did you tap into the audio? AFAIK there is no "line/audio-outs" on the OEM amp, as it is built into the center console. So I don't have a clue how I would be able to add in a new amp.

    Looking for details answers, pics, descriptions, any knowledge transfer here... and warnings and stuff too (like don't touch the orange cables, lol). etc :)
     
  2. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    /bump, didn't get any biters. wondering if anyone's attempted anything since I posted this in November.
     
  3. Zextraterrestrial

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    hehe, you reading my mind? I was considering starting a thread about this last night but thought I should search first. While the Bass is 'decent' in the S it could use a tad more when you push the sound level with low frequency music.

    I have only seen the Reus sub in the A&E car that had the interior redone but I think they left the original and added a separate one on the left side. Not positive about that though
     
  4. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    coming from someone who used to have three 12" JL Audio subs in my old camaro, yes I could use a little more bass too lol
     
  5. Zextraterrestrial

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    just image what a crazy audio show car the Tesla could be! Plex frunk, crazy lighting and speakers. Massive space in the rear for a enormous box like a pickup bed.. too many possibilities

    I started with 2 - 6 1/2 bazookas in a '73 914. That filled that tiny car pretty well. Then had a kicker solobaric 12" square speaker that was stolen w/an Integra. Downgraded to a single kicker comp in a Rav4 which my neighbor kept in the car when he bought it. Now I was thinking maybe a single 10" JL W6 or something that won't be too loud but hit some lower stuff.
     
  6. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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    yea i've been out of this game for years now though. I'm thinking these shallow subwoofers would be a good fit for those pockets in the side.

    Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW5v2 - JL Audio

    x01_767606.jpg

    those are pretty high powered though. there are others that don't require as much power.

    Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - TW3 - JL Audio

    Car Audio - Subwoofer Drivers - W1v3

    I know I measured a few months ago. I think I recall those 13s might being able to fit due to the shallow mount capability. If not those ones, then their shallow 10s and 12s would definitely work. I was going to look into doing this more seriously this summer (when its warmer outside). If I could put one of these on each of the pockets for two 13" JL subs ... oh man that would be killer.

    not sure what amps are good these days though. perhaps a low power Class D amp might suffice. questions I have though are tie in to the audio and where to get stable power. if the MS uses a "lawnmower" size battery, it might get killed pretty fast by a big amp. not sure if any caps are needed here. as far as the tie in, from what I've read there is no "audio-out" but rather we'd might have to splice in somewhere and run it through a filter to clean it up before going to the amp. I would assume we'd just splice into the wiring going to the existing OEM sub.

    I don't think I'd try to replace any of the other speakers. they sound ok enough. it's just the bass I'd like to kick a lot more.
     
  7. Chris TX

    Chris TX Active Member

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    I'm splicing into the rear door speakers to feed an amp for some small speakers in the hatch. Since the amp I got for these little 3.5" speakers is too much for them, I might feed some 10" subs with it as well. I too am waiting for it to get a bit warmer to mess with this. I have an insulated garage, but it's usually nicer to do this in the driveway.
     
  8. Gizmotoy

    Gizmotoy Active Member

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    Do I have an unusually potent sub in mine? The stock sub hits hard enough to make it nearly impossible to see out of the mirrors and causes random stuff to rattle. I can't imagine adding more, and this from someone who had a pair of JL 12"s in the trunk in his younger days.
     
  9. Zextraterrestrial

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    certain stuff does make my side mirrors vibrate and review too. I thought this was impressive. I was listening to some 'Gangtsa' rap and there is a noticeable dropoff in the low low. I should play the test tone mp3s and actually see what is missing

    ..crazy how much better some mobile amps and subs are these days compared to 15-20 years ago

    - - - Updated - - -

    you added speaker to the hatch w/out the sound package, correct?
     
  10. Chris TX

    Chris TX Active Member

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    Correct. I'm also doing some other things along with that project which I will share once it is complete.
     
  11. yobigd20

    yobigd20 Well-Known Member

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  12. Zextraterrestrial

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  13. GDH

    GDH Banned

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    That center console is sweet!
     
  14. JohnQ

    JohnQ Active Member

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    Was the fascia for the center console just pulled off of the armrest? That's what it looks like in one of the photos.

    It all looked great until I saw the dash disassembled … that scares the hell out of me.

    I think I'd still prefer subs in the footwell area; does there need to be some processing to sync the timing of when the sub fires with the rest of the speakers or is the distance/reflection trivial when placed in the rear?
     
  15. nkohlimd

    nkohlimd Member

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    This is Rob's car and Sound in Motion is the installer and they do great work-they did my front and rear parking sensors. Have heard the car and it is awesome! I have the Reus system and the difference is not huge between the 2 systems but the installation cost for SIM was >$10K vs 4K for Reus -albeit, it did include lots of customization, sound deadening, etc. They had the car for several weeks while Rob was travelling. Great great work but not cheap in terms of cost and time.....other installers may differ.....just thought I would add some background info since I know the car and the install team.
     
  16. RichieM

    RichieM New Member

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    JL Audio also makes a line of class D (digital) amplifiers that take very little space or power, they also make a device called Clean Sweep that allows you to add amplifiers to factory sound systems
     
  17. GaryREM

    GaryREM Member

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    The write up says they ordered another armrest trim piece to match the existing console.
     
  18. skdave

    skdave Member

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    I would rather hire the Temps and the Four Tops to sing in the back seat. Amazing!

    Now the center console is sweet and the best idea to date..
     
  19. BP_Tesl@

    BP_Tesl@ Member

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    Wow that looks great! Have you noticed a big difference in power consumption or is it negligible? The new shallow JL subs are absolutely great for what they are. A friend of mine has one in his smart car and the sound reproduction is great, plus it's more than enough to rattle just about everything in a smart car!
     
  20. bradhs

    bradhs Member

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    These look great, is it compatible with the high-end audio system? Can we purchase this?
     

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