Guys I have a gen 3 wall charger & found out my electrician didn’t connect it to the internet. You apparently are suppose to scan in the ocr to connect to WiFi. The problem is it’s on the back of it. Since I wasn’t there when he installed it and threw away the directions I have no idea how to remove it to get to the back of it? Thoughts?
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How to Add Gen 3 Wall Connector to Wi-Fi?
- Thread starter starrman
- Start date
I don't have one so I can't help, but here is a link to the manual https://www.tesla.com/sites/default...ng/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf
Page 22 is what you want
Page 22 is what you want
Once you get the installation manual, I'd call back the electrician and have them remove the unit so you can scan the code on the back. They didn't complete the job.
I had my electrician install the wall charger while I was at work and I didn't know about connecting it to WIFI until after I came home.
There was a sticker on the quickstart guide that has the SSID/password and a QR code for connecting to the charger's WIFI access point.
To connect to the access point, hold down the button on the charging handle for 5 seconds until the green light on the charger starts pulsing. Then scan the QR code or connect to the charger SSID manually from your phone. Then open a web browser and go to 192.168.92.1 and you will see the menu controls for the charger.
There was a sticker on the quickstart guide that has the SSID/password and a QR code for connecting to the charger's WIFI access point.
To connect to the access point, hold down the button on the charging handle for 5 seconds until the green light on the charger starts pulsing. Then scan the QR code or connect to the charger SSID manually from your phone. Then open a web browser and go to 192.168.92.1 and you will see the menu controls for the charger.
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andaconda
Active Member
Same issue as you, had a Gen 3 WC installed yesterday by an electrician and he took the quickstart guide. No big deal, just use a 5/32" allen wrench to unscrew the fasteners (2 on top, 2 on bottom) and pop it off. Snap a pic of the info on the back and you're in business. Follow the commissioning instructions as vinceoxnard pointed out above.
Don't want to hijack this thread but the next issue I'm seeing is trying to access the config page via my home network. All I get is:
"Wall Connector cannot be configured on this network. Please follow installation instructions on tesla.com/wallconnector."
which seems to be the default per the latest firmware. Ugh.
Don't want to hijack this thread but the next issue I'm seeing is trying to access the config page via my home network. All I get is:
"Wall Connector cannot be configured on this network. Please follow installation instructions on tesla.com/wallconnector."
which seems to be the default per the latest firmware. Ugh.
The Gen3 WC has been out for almost 18 months with no software activation. Meaning connecting it to Wi-Fi is currently pointless other than having it ready for the software update to actually enable it. Who knows when and at this point even if, it will ever be enabled. I have never heard of a Wi-Fi connected device that is completely disabled for this long.
Consistent with other parts of the Tesla ownership experience.
My rule of thumb for the past 5 years or so is never purchase any device based on claims that a firmware update will give me critical functionality for my use case. As a result I've been much happier with many of my purchases.
TomServo
Active Member
Just ordered a Gen 3 to replace my trusty Clipper Creek, so if I DO NOT use the wi-fi set up, can I still select the amps manually from inside the unit i.e. rotary dial etc? or MUST I use the WI-FI set up?
JustJohn
Member
Out of the box it will pull current for a 60 amp circuit. I used mine the 1st night without setup and tripped our 50A breaker. Initially fooled me because the current draw was 48A. Must've tried for more later on during the night.
You are misunderstanding this, and it is an unusual way to think of wi-fi, because it's not common. You don't need the internet.
There is client and server. You are thinking of the wall connector as the client, and then connecting to a wi-fi router, which is the "server" that's going to the internet. That's not what's used to set the current level. That's optional for downloading updates, but isn't necessary.
Instead, it's the wall connector acting as the "server", providing its own wi-fi hotspot. Then your cell phone acts as the "client" to connect directly to the wall connector and uses that interface to set the current. This procedure never needs a wi-fi router or an internet connection.
This statement confuses me a bit. I am certainly not an expert on this, but.... a 60amp circuit gets set for 48amp draw, and I dont think the Gen 3 Wall connector supports more than a 48amp draw (60amp circuit) at all.
It couldnt have "asked for more" because the 60amp breaker = 48amp draw and thats the maximum output for the gen 3 wall connector, so that means your issue is something other than what you stated.
JustJohn
Member
All I can tell you are the facts of the situation. I did not set up the charger the first night and it tripped a 50A breaker. When I logged into the wall connector, it was set to a 60A circuit, which I changed to 50A. Anything beyond that is speculative.
So no, I don't have another issue. Sorry if this confuses you.
No, what you said there in this post doesnt confuse me. Putting it together with what you said before it makes sense. It sounded like you said you had a 60 amp breaker, but you dont. You have a 50amp breaker, which makes the previous post make sense.
The actual breaker is 50amp I mean. If the actual breaker is 50 amp, but the HPWC was set for 60, then the rest of it makes sense.
I saw that there is more discussion with you and @jjrandorin but the answer isn't being spelled out specifically.
It did not "try for more" later on during the night. With that setup, you were drawing 48A constant on a 50A breaker. That will not trip instantly, but almost certainly will within an hour or two. Breakers are built with two different trip mechanisms. One is the instant one for a very high current spike overage, but then the other one is a thermal effect of longer term heating up, where it's very close to or just above the breaker's rating for a long time, and the heat buildup will cause a trip.
This is why they have that 80% constant load provision. For that 50A circuit, it's supposed to only support 40A long term, and the heat level would be appropriate there. 48A long term was too much and got too hot.
