llavalle
Member
Could be... But I recall a 900 or 950 limited pack(60 perhaps?)but I don't have any logs to check it..
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How to get P85 to full power
- Thread starter raphy3
- Start date
Warm battery = more power due to less resistance
It's definitely 1000 amps. I have an S85.
llavalle
Member
Yup, I can'y really get more power. If the battery is full (100%), the internal resistance is slightly higher so you get a slightly worst voltage drop. 90-95% SOC is the sweet spot from my non-scientific testing.
Alright, that add ups. I'll note that.
Fun fact : when the say that the car is battery limited (even on the non-P 85D), it's no joke. Each of the drive unit reports the maximum power they can put out and that number goes down as the voltage goes down. I just checked my 85D, currently sitting at 88% SOC : rear drive unit reports 325kW and front drive unit 297kW (smaller wiring and longer run = less current available). When you think that this number is way higher than the observed 360kW you get a good sense of how the motors have a lot more power available. What's worst is I know I have a 1300amp fuse but I assume Tesla artificially limits the power of the 85D to 1150amps so it's not too close to the P85D....
llavalle
Member
Woops, forgot the part of the question about the adapter and ELM transmitter.
I did not use an ELM device. I have a CANtact with a plug I made myself using parts sourced from online retailers (amazon and mouser)
I did not use an ELM device. I have a CANtact with a plug I made myself using parts sourced from online retailers (amazon and mouser)
@llavalle darn OK. was hoping something is out there that I can just buy. I certainly have the skills to grab parts and solder things together and make connectors splicing wires together, etc., but I ain't got the time right now! It would take me a while (probably a couple of weeks) to find the time to do all the research, buy the stuff, and sit down to make it and debug it.
So I called the SC today and it seems they hadn't heard of my questions despite the DS forwarding it, so good thing I did. They said they'll see what they can see remotely first. Seemed to agree that 330-340kw and my not optimal 0-60 time was not exactly normal, but need to look into it to be sure. Might hear back from them tomorrow.
So I called the SC today and it seems they hadn't heard of my questions despite the DS forwarding it, so good thing I did. They said they'll see what they can see remotely first. Seemed to agree that 330-340kw and my not optimal 0-60 time was not exactly normal, but need to look into it to be sure. Might hear back from them tomorrow.
llavalle
Member
No soldering involved.
-The CANTact is an open source device (hardware, firmware and software). You can find it here. It has a serial connection (DE-9)
-Bought a serial cable extension from Amazon... cut in half
-Bought the connector and pins from mouser. See this post for details.
-Used the serial cable wires on the pins directly and inserted them in the connector
Took me like 30min... most of which was figuring out which pin in the serial cable was connected to which wire.
If you want to go the ELM way, there's a guy selling pre-made cable on panjo. Here's link (I have no affiliations) : Tesla CAN Diagnostic Cable For MS/MX (Sept 2015 and up) - Crimped to Order OBD-II
Note that this specific cable is for the newer model but I'm sure if you reach out he can probably make one with the older connector (Sept 2015 and older build)
gabeincal
Active Member
So If I buy this cable from Panjo, all I need is an OBD -> bluetooth (or wi-fi like an ELM327?) and TM-Spy on an Android device to log battery stuff?
You may have a point. All of the P85 loaners which felt faster all had 21" tires. Mine are 19s.Just a guess, but I'd suspect that the traction control is kicking in to prevent tire slip, so the net effect is that it's ramping up the torque to what the tires can handle. I'll also suspect that the traction control has improved in recent firmware versions as well as probably in your new drive unit such that it isn't noticeable when its limiting torque.
Put some summer performance tires on it and take it to the drag strip where they have a prepped, sticky track. I bet it snaps your head just fine.
Olle
Active Member
The OP is reporting power draw that seemingly exceeds the spec of a non-p drive, but under performs compared to the P85 spec. Additionally, this would appear to cause firmware issues since the DU would be flashed with an incorrect firmware. However, note that @wk057 has flashed a standard drive unit with P firmware and turned the car into a P85.
llavalle
Member
Yup. Works great. You won't be able to capture ALL events because of a limitation of the ELM devices..but you'll get most of them.
...and then he went well beyond that turning into a P85+++++ that out accelerates a P85D from a roll.
My best guess is that the battery has degraded and can't put out the same power at the same current that it used to. If the OP can take a CANBUS measurement of voltage and current, I think we'll see a larger voltage drop at 1150 amps in the 295 volt range rather than the 320 volts it should be.
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I don't know how I missed the Recent sequential posts on this thread, sorry for the radio silence.
Yeah, I am currently working on getting that CAN capability together. Thanks to an informative post by @llavalle I should be good to go. I see that there are only a couple of parts needed for the cable. Will order that today, and then I already have a Bluetooth obd2, which may or may not work with TM spy. I'll get the CANtact as well in case I can't get the obd device working.
I do worry that it is degraded battery. Yet my range is more than 95% of new... one thing I haven't had time to try is measure the power output at 100% soc. If it's higher, but still under what would be expected, that will point to you being right. However, I won't be able to convince tesla to do anything for me in that case, I suspect. So I hope it's something else!
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Super tiny update. I got a chance to test it twice on the way to work, using a different app, a simple speed clocker. First 0-60 was 4.5s and the car spent a while at the start struggling to get traction. That matches the Tesla dashboard app measurement from the other day. Second test was baffling. I mashed the gas as much as possible and it seemed to get traction immediately, before it ran to 60 in... 6.1s. Ouch! There was a minor incline here, but nothing i would think that would matter. Maybe these apps have error bars to big to be useful. I will say it didn't feel that fast.
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llavalle
Member
I've used this BT:LE dongle with good success : Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad: Automotive . Works on Android and iOS. Only problem is you can't leave it connected - it messes with the CANBus for some reasons and you might get a DTC. It clears itself up after a few minutes.
The CANTact doesn't do that (messing with the CAN bus). It works great. Contact me via PM if you get the CANtact, I'll give you a few tips
Olle
Active Member
if there is too much margin of error in the app, why not film the speedometer with your smartphone and look at the elapsed time when you play the video?
That's outside of the box
. I'll see if I can safely get that set up.So service called me and told me that I'm getting 1200 amps peak that drops off to 1150 quickly and that peak voltage is "in the mid 300s". That puts peak power in spec but it doesn't really say anything about ramping to that point or sustained power. The service guy told me that to really get to the types of times i see online, or even to the spec of 4.2, I'd probably need to turn off TC and get to a sticky road / track. After warning about never turning off TC though, which I believe.
That sounds good. I'll order that CANtactI've used this BT:LE dongle with good success : Amazon.com: LELink Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad: Automotive . Works on Android and iOS. Only problem is you can't leave it connected - it messes with the CANBus for some reasons and you might get a DTC. It clears itself up after a few minutes.
The CANTact doesn't do that (messing with the CAN bus). It works great. Contact me via PM if you get the CANtact, I'll give you a few tips
Just a minor update for people following this. The jury is still out. I bought a cantact and will measure current and voltage when it comes in next week. Let's see if I really am getting such high voltage and currents as service claimed. It has been hard to get a bias free measurement on the road. Stupid other cars keep clogging it up doing things like "commuting". Don't thru know people are trying to speed test their cars here?
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