Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

HPWC Requires at least a 60amp circuit???

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
My electrician is telling me that the installation of a HPWC requires a 60amp circuit. I was laboring under the belief that it could be installed on 50amp, but just wouldn't provide the level of charge that it was capable of. He indicates that it is against standards/code or whatever to install it on anything less than 60amp.

???
 
  • Funny
Reactions: Rocky_H
If you want the HPWC to output 48 amps, then you need a 60 amp circuit breaker. You can install it on breakers lower than that and it would be able to provide 80% of the breaker's value. A 50 amp breaker would provide 40 amps. A 40 amp breaker would provide 32 amps, etc.

From Wall Connector:
1629999861835.png


When installing, you configure it to indicate the size circuit breaker it was installed on.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Rocky_H
I guess that was my question.. so it seems like you don't require 60amp.....You can install on 50amp...and just get the lesser kW. He is telling me that he is not allowed by whatever authority to install this device on any circuit less than 60amp.
 
I guess that was my question.. so it seems like you don't require 60amp.....You can install on 50amp...and just get the lesser kW. He is telling me that he is not allowed by whatever authority to install this device on any circuit less than 60amp.
You can send the link I posted above. If he doesn't believe you, I suggest going with an electrician who knows how to read.
 
@MorrisonHiker is correct, it can be configured for any circuit capacity you want, the only limitation is that it must be 240V. The NEC code your electrician is referring to simply states that it must be installed within the manufacturer's spec which again, specifically allows any size circuit.

But why is the difference between 50A and 60A even a question? The wire size is the same and I can't imagine that your panel is so close to overload that the extra 10A would push it past the limit.

Screenshot 2021-08-26 104530.png
 
My electrician is telling me that the installation of a HPWC requires a 60amp circuit. I was laboring under the belief that it could be installed on 50amp, but just wouldn't provide the level of charge that it was capable of. He indicates that it is against standards/code or whatever to install it on anything less than 60amp.

How can I phrase this? Bullshit! Your electrician does not know what he is talking about and likely does not know code anyway.

You can install the Wall Connector all the way down to a 15A circuit, as noted above by others. Do yourself a favor and find another electrician.
 
There are no dip switches in the Gen3 charger, the maximum power output is configurable via its wifi page. Therefore, there is a possibility that the user change the maximum after the electrician installs. Because of that, they must use a wire that supports the technical maximum: 60A for the 48A pull. I'm not sure if it requires a 60A breaker but the wire is mandatory.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: Rocky_H
Because of that, they must use a wire that supports the technical maximum: 60A for the 48A pull. I'm not sure if it requires a 60A breaker but the wire is mandatory.
That is incorrect. In fact it would be a code violation to do so, if it were even possible.

Breakers (and other devices) have a specific wire size range that the terminal clamps can safely accommodate and in the extreme case of 6 AWG (60A) in a 20A breaker it is generally out of spec.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Rocky_H
My electrician is telling me that the installation of a HPWC requires a 60amp circuit. I was laboring under the belief that it could be installed on 50amp, but just wouldn't provide the level of charge that it was capable of. He indicates that it is against standards/code or whatever to install it on anything less than 60amp.

???
Time for a new electrician.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Rocky_H
Man some of you are tough. I'm saying there's a reason why the electrician is suggesting using a 60A circuit whatever the actual setting you want to use. It's because you could technically change the setting after he's gone, back to 60 A. The gen2 had switches inside, requiring physical access to the interior to change the max amps. I believe they are forced to install it that way to respect code. Clearly code around charging equipment is changing as things evolve, and varies per country etc. I'm helping you understand they are not necessarily bad electricians. If you don't want to understand, I'll leave it up to you...
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: Rocky_H
Man some of you are tough. I'm saying there's a reason why the electrician is suggesting using a 60A circuit whatever the actual setting you want to use. It's because you could technically change the setting after he's gone, back to 60 A. The gen2 had switches inside, requiring physical access to the interior to change the max amps. I believe they are forced to install it that way to respect code. Clearly code around charging equipment is changing as things evolve, and varies per country etc. I'm helping you understand they are not necessarily bad electricians. If you don't want to understand, I'll leave it up to you...

I understand what you are saying, but there are also a couple of people in this thread responding that have extensive electrical experience, so they are not "home DIY ers" so to speak.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Rocky_H
Yeah, just paying Devil's Advocate here... I can see what GtiMart is saying where an electrician may have a bad experience where a customer wanted a 24A charging capability on their Gen 3 HPWC and the Electrician installs it with a 30A breaker.

Then said homeowner logs into their HPWC and cranks the sucker up to 32A and keeps complaining that the electrician screwed him.

This inherent mistrust was the gist of the original PG&E expert crapping on my solar+ESS. They thought my building permit had an intentionally low breaker on my main panel. And PG&E insisted they "see homeowners and shady solar contractors do dumb stuff all the time" where they'll swap out bigger breakers and stuff once the inspector is gone.

Specific to the HPWC... here in Contra Costa County CA, I had a brief exchange with the e-permitting office. The guy on the line said he was aware some homeowners were submitting e-permits with the 40A setting on the Gen3 HPWC with a 50A OCPD. This allows the homeowner to get the cheaper option EV (edit: I meant EV Charger) install since a 50A OCPD e-permit is pretty cheap, while a 60A OCPD needs the more expensive option with the triplicate 11x17" CAD submissions that Vines probably does on the daily.

So the homeowner gets an e-permit for the 50A OCPD with beefy conductors... then after it's all approved... someone lands a new 60A OCPD on the panel and dials the thing up to 48A (or worse, just dials it up to 48A and doesn't change the OCPD or conductors). The County doesn't like it, but it's not like they're equipped to do anything about it.

TLDR, I can see why an electrician that mistrusts homeowners will choose to install a HPWC with only a 60A OCPD and a continuous load rating at 48A that fits within the load calc. Either way, go find a new electrician.
 
Last edited:
  • Helpful
Reactions: Rocky_H
Man some of you are tough. I'm saying there's a reason why the electrician is suggesting using a 60A circuit whatever the actual setting you want to use. It's because you could technically change the setting after he's gone, back to 60 A. The gen2 had switches inside, requiring physical access to the interior to change the max amps. I believe they are forced to install it that way to respect code. Clearly code around charging equipment is changing as things evolve, and varies per country etc. I'm helping you understand they are not necessarily bad electricians. If you don't want to understand, I'll leave it up to you...
Sure, but it is arguably less work to pop the cover off the Gen2 HPWC and flip switches, AND in either case(Gen2 or Gen3) changing the setting to something more than the wire/breaker will support will cause the breaker to trip. I guess you could also make the argument that the user could change the breaker after the electrician left, leaving the wire undersized. At some point it's no longer the electrician's problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rocky_H