For many areas, it's a LOT easier to find a place that does 3M Crystalline than Huper Optik. Back when I last looked (years ago, but I don't think things have changed much), the only place in SoCal that installed it was down in Orange County in the Irvine/Costa Mesa area. 3M, being a huge company, has installers in practically every city that has a tint shop.
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For many areas, it's a LOT easier to find a place that does 3M Crystalline than Huper Optik. Back when I last looked (years ago, but I don't think things have changed much), the only place in SoCal that installed it was down in Orange County in the Irvine/Costa Mesa area. 3M, being a huge company, has installers in practically every city that has a tint shop.
I have both installers in my area. I was going to install 3M because that was what most of the M3 owners recommended. but the guy that sells Huper said that the heat rejection rating for the crystalline were only based on a limited study and that in reality HO has better heat rejection qualities. I dont know if thats a sales pitch (but i read it online too) thats why I posted here to get feedback on real life/actual experience and not the stats on the internet (heat rejection stats on the internet its obvious that crystalline wins). thanks for all the info
Back when I got my first Tesla ..2013 all the threads were saying get crystalline lol .so I put that on S ...on X everyone says get photosync ...on the bmw forums they will say HO which I also had long ago lol ... where I’m at I need a good tint and honestly between all 3 they all felt the same to me ..also consider since you have dealer near you support will be better if something happens with film ..I don’t think you can go wrong with any of the tints ..although I would avoid the basic 3m tint ..(non ceramic )
I prefer the value for the price of either Llumar CTX or Suntek CXP. Both are much cheaper than Crystalline, Photosync and HO. I can't tell the difference between Llumar/Suntek and the Crystalline. And the last time I looked at Crystalline, it definitely had a hue (blue-ish/purple-ish) compared to the others.
Fusion
Member
I would choose the cheaper one. They are both great tint. HO is the only tint that has a patent I believe. Photosync has been over hyped and with that hype, overly expensive for not a lot more heat rejection in return.
ℬête Noire
Active Member
I'm using 50% Crystaline on side windows of the Bolt and it reminds me of my long passed, and missed Serengeti sunglasses, A warm brown looking out as much as anything, I am very happy with it and expect I'll get it on my Model 3.
I've seen the 90% Crystaline and it's slightly bluish looking to me. The same with the lightest Photosync, which I've seen installed on a Model 3 (a rental at a local shop). The Bolt doesn't have the windshield done (wife balked at it) but the Model 3 windshield is so much larger so I'm really leaning towards it. That's where I think Spectra Photosync really has the edge. With the darker to mid-range tints there is only a small difference, they all spec out at about 2/3 of total solar energy blocked or better, but going to the not-tinted portions of the line (that is a legal requirement for the windshield unless you have a doctor's waiver) Photosync's heat blocking while somewhat lower doesn't drop as drastically the rest of the films.
That's why I'm considering getting Spectra on the windshield, while I plan to keep to 3M sides and rear (3M because I'm happy with it and the installer that did the Bolt did a good job, and they don't carry Huper Optik).
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I'd agree. My Huper cost that much, albeit it was years ago. Coming from $200 tints, it was quite a shock.
LOL. That was me too. First time I got Huper was when I got a BMW. The BMW forums I visited all went on how Huper was the best. It was between that, and V-Kool if you wanted 70%. So, I put both on my car to stay legal. Did Photosync because all the Tesla forums said it was the best.
I did Google all the tints both times. When I had the BMW, I didn't find anything that seemed better, which is why I went with Huper and V-Kool. Right now, if you google all the TSER stats, Photosync is the best.
I'm not sure how true they really are though. But, they are a LOT better than cheap tint.
Search around and see if there's an installer in SoCal who will do the rear in one piece.
I got my Photosync in Brea by Extreme Autowerks. Premier in Fremont wanted a day and a half and it was too hard to get to and pick up with that timeline.
Once you get into the higher tier films, it would every hard to actually FEEL a huge difference and it comes down to which is more aesthetically appealing to you! However after actually testing all of the top tier brands for IR and UV rejection (with fancy measurement tools) we found that Spectra Photosync has the highest performance rating
What was the next one? hehe I cant afford that so im going to settle with the next best one
ElectricGhost
Member
I had huper optik on my BMW. Ive tinted 3 other cars with mid grade ceramic tint. Huper optik was the best but totally not worth paying twice as much. $900 for tint is ridiculous. Especially when you can just set your test to activate cabin cooling (fan only or AC) and precooler the vehicle.
If you do window tint, I recommend the following order:
1) doing the sides first (30 or darker)
2) then the windshield (air 80 is rather nice and cuts glare inside in addition to radiation).
The front and the sides are where most of the continuous unfiltered radiation will hit your body the most and so is very useful.
3) getting the tesla sunshade for the glass above you (its removable in the cooler seasons so better than blacking out a glass roof you paid big money for)
4) doing the back window
5) then doing the front roof glass
If you plan on doing all the above thrn consider paying $400 more for the extra 5% of radiation filter you get from a more premium tint. Otherwise your going about it in a much less efficient manor.
I went with the front in air 80, and the sides in a ceramic llumer 30 (would have gone darker if they had 25). Left the rear untinted.
I live in Vegas with the most sun radiation of any state outside AZ or NM. With cabin cooling set to fan only, and using precooling while Im walking to my car, this has been the best value by far. $450 vs $1200+ for the whole car in huper optik. Not as good, but good enough.
Would consider the roof sunshade next if I weren’t moving to California this fall. Not reslly considering the rear and I can just precool the cabin in the summer/save $300
All that said, if you want to spend the money do it. I highly recommend doing the windshield in a light tint and getting the sunshade too though.
If you do window tint, I recommend the following order:
1) doing the sides first (30 or darker)
2) then the windshield (air 80 is rather nice and cuts glare inside in addition to radiation).
The front and the sides are where most of the continuous unfiltered radiation will hit your body the most and so is very useful.
3) getting the tesla sunshade for the glass above you (its removable in the cooler seasons so better than blacking out a glass roof you paid big money for)
4) doing the back window
5) then doing the front roof glass
If you plan on doing all the above thrn consider paying $400 more for the extra 5% of radiation filter you get from a more premium tint. Otherwise your going about it in a much less efficient manor.
I went with the front in air 80, and the sides in a ceramic llumer 30 (would have gone darker if they had 25). Left the rear untinted.
I live in Vegas with the most sun radiation of any state outside AZ or NM. With cabin cooling set to fan only, and using precooling while Im walking to my car, this has been the best value by far. $450 vs $1200+ for the whole car in huper optik. Not as good, but good enough.
Would consider the roof sunshade next if I weren’t moving to California this fall. Not reslly considering the rear and I can just precool the cabin in the summer/save $300
All that said, if you want to spend the money do it. I highly recommend doing the windshield in a light tint and getting the sunshade too though.
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3M Crystalline 20 back window (one piece) back sides and 70 front side windows. Sunroof portion above drivers head at 40.
I would not recommend lower than 70 on sunroof portion if you like your view. Just FYI.
I would not recommend lower than 70 on sunroof portion if you like your view. Just FYI.
