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Thanks, this is super helpful. Mine left the factory in May 2015. How can you tell if you have a 2.0 pack?No contradictions anywhere, and everything I noted in both cases still appears to be true.
Pack design changes around Q2'14 solved most of the discovered early issues, but not all of them.
Design change around Q2'15 solved pretty much every issue known at the time. This was effectively a redesign. Tesla internally labeled these 2.0 packs. The design went mostly unchanged on S/X until the Plaid packs. (They even some improved hardware component repairability with this redesign, a pleasant surprise coming from Tesla.)
Late 2017 saw the last known changes to the 100-type cells, and these are currently still in production.
I am a utilitarian person. I buy things to use, not necessarily to put it in a museum
Hahaha all my vehicles have been emissions free cars. I'd get a smog test and get it registered then put on an off-road x pipe and never have to get another smog test for the life of the car. CA may have the strictest emissions laws but they also have the easiest way to get around it since ya only need 1 smog test everMy fun car is a 1965 Jaguar E-Type Roaster that was previously owned by the CEO of the company that invented the catalytic converter. Which is ironic since it doesn’t have a catalytic converter. In fact, while my Model S is an “emissions-free” car and my Jag is an “emissions-equipment-free” car.
I miss the days before 2010 when I didn't have to smog my turbodiesels. Our 2006 Silverado Duramax is bone stock but stupid turbo vane sensors trigger the MIL at the most inconvenient times when I need a smog check/test. I have to swap the ECM on my old 2001 VW Golf TDI back to OEM to get it to pass. If just one pin on the ECM connector is off weird things happen like no throttle position sensor, brake light switch malfunction, etc. It's a PITA to get it right and the ECM location is between the windshield cowl and the firewall. The aftermarket tuning I have increases the power by 25% and fuel economy by 8%, so I'm convinced the emissions are cleaner on a per mile basis. Seems like California wanted more money and too many idiots were "rolling coal" so the state reacted.Hahaha all my vehicles have been emissions free cars. I'd get a smog test and get it registered then put on an off-road x pipe and never have to get another smog test for the life of the car. CA may have the strictest emissions laws but they also have the easiest way to get around it since ya only need 1 smog test ever
New cars are exempt for 8 years except change of ownership. After that they need an inspection every 2 years.Hahaha all my vehicles have been emissions free cars. I'd get a smog test and get it registered then put on an off-road x pipe and never have to get another smog test for the life of the car. CA may have the strictest emissions laws but they also have the easiest way to get around it since ya only need 1 smog test ever
Stocks are the get go my friend.You've missed out on some great profits lately. I cashed out on 2 of my collector cars last year and made enough profits to buy 3 new Model S Plaids.
It varies by county, and I have a county that only requires it on the original registration and never again regardless of what year the car is. Unless it's a 1975 or older then it's exempt statewide.New cars are exempt for 8 years except change of ownership. After that they need an inspection every 2 years.
Good point - I don't have the correct equipment for Scan My Tesla. That said - Recurrent report shows maybe 3 miles loss over 60k miles since I purchased and as I said Teslafi seems happy. I will openly agree that neither is an in depth analysis. Anecdotely, I have seen no meaningful changes in range since I purchased.Did you you ever considered running the Scan My Tesla app, to get information regarding the whole battery capacity degradation
and cell information such as voltage balancing, cell temperature, and other information that Teslafi could not access?
Also would it be worthwhile doing a Tesla Battery Health Test which could allow I believe to rebalace the cells and could improve
this way the whole battery capacity, and determine battery health and a degradation information.
I don’t buy that the newer packs would last “indefinitely” and with your awareness of FSD, I can’t understand why you would believe that BS either. The chemistry of these batteries dies with both cycles and time.
Remember when FSD did the big rewrite and that would fix everything? Or getting rid of radar would fix phantom braking (or breaking for all the people that don’t know the difference)?
Now it’s, “oh, our new batteries will solve everything magically. Of course we glue it all together with goop that needs to be dry ice blasted to get to the batteries for any repairs, but trust us, these batteries are made of pixie dust and unicorn piss.”
Yup, it happens.
There's no fighting Tesla on this. Your battery made it 9 years, was warranted for 8. The terms were crystal clear 9 years ago and are still crystal clear today.
your choices are sell the car as-is, let Telsa fix it, or pursue a third party repair/replacement. There is no "scream at Tesla until they relent and give me a free battery" option.
Based on information obtained from this Forum and the BMS_029 Facebook Group, primarily limited to 2012-2014 Model S’s. We are starting to hear about some 2015's being affected as they come off warranty and owners are having to pay for repairs. Neither mileage nor types of charging habits seem to be immune.I am noticing several posts about the exact same 2014 model SP 85 battery. Mine had just expired from its warranty. I had only 64,000 miles on it and it failed. $15,000 to replace it in Austin Texas. Does anyone know if perhaps it is just this year and model but it’s having such problems with battery failure at low mileage?
The trend is explained in this thread: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) Because this is commonly caused by a poorly placed AC drain hose and insufficient protection from water in the early battery designs, it can happen at low mileage. My 2014 car needed a new HV battery at around 46K miles (before I bought it used).I am noticing several posts about the exact same 2014 model SP 85 battery. Mine had just expired from its warranty. I had only 64,000 miles on it and it failed. $15,000 to replace it in Austin Texas. Does anyone know if perhaps it is just this year and model but it’s having such problems with battery failure at low mileage?
I don't have hard data but suspect water ingress is a small percentage. Mostly pathological reduction in brick capacity or state of charge imbalance, not caused by water ingress.The trend is explained in this thread: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) Because this is commonly caused by a poorly placed AC drain hose and insufficient protection from water in the early battery designs, it can happen at low mileage. My 2014 car needed a new HV battery at around 46K miles (before I bought it used).
I personally will NEVER purchase a Tesla and I very much regret having encouraged my mother-in-law to buy one 9 years ago as an early adopter.
You know of a thread proving this and/or suggestion as to what software version would someone want to revert back to? My '17 MX P100D is waiting for the newest FSD update for MCU1, but I'm all for backing some updates back and not getting FSD back if it means not receiving a false battery code. We've got 130k on it now w/ almost 3yrs of stock battery/motor warranty left.If u still have MCU1, u can root n downgrade software, then lock out Tesla/OTAs.
U can also reset BMS codes. Then u can use the car till it gets the same/diff codes to prove/disprove the theory about OTAs...
General consensus here is that new software just has more detection abilities for HV battery issues n locks it down as a failsafe..
Why not just drive the crap out of it for the next 3 years and hope it fails under warranty? They seem to fail in your mileage range already so I doubt it will make it past warranty expiration without needing a replacementYou know of a thread proving this and/or suggestion as to what software version would someone want to revert back to? My '17 MX P100D is waiting for the newest FSD update for MCU1, but I'm all for backing some updates back and not getting FSD back if it means not receiving a false battery code. We've got 130k on it now w/ almost 3yrs of stock battery/motor warranty left.
That's absolutely my plan. Long story short but this past year we've averaged 30k and that will continue for possibly another 3-4yrs while the kids are still in high school. We'll be well over 200k at this rate and thankfully the remaining warranty is unlimited mileage.Why not just drive the crap out of it for the next 3 years and hope it fails under warranty? They seem to fail in your mileage range already so I doubt it will make it past warranty expiration without needing a replacement
I think Salvage owners thread is where it commonly discussed but downgrade is mostly desirable to get things like root or factory mode, things that were removed. I was just suggesting that if someone sees "new" things they don't like with update they can revert to previous version...You know of a thread proving this and/or suggestion as to what software version would someone want to revert back to? My '17 MX P100D is waiting for the newest FSD update for MCU1, but I'm all for backing some updates back and not getting FSD back if it means not receiving a false battery code. We've got 130k on it now w/ almost 3yrs of stock battery/motor warranty left.