italian bread
Member
You may also be able to locate a hybrid or plug-in hybrid or a used EV. I've seen some certified ID.4 for $35K. An under $25K PHEV or EV can net up to $4K back in federal tax credits.
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HV Battery failure! 2014 S85 with 43,000 miles, single owner car
- Thread starter Bob Atkins
- Start date
Oh I agree on interior. The Model S has an interior on par with a 50 or 60k car at best. Thats why I'm glad they've been cutting the prices down to reasonable valuations. 120k+ for that interior was highway robbery. And don't get me started on 15k price to but you and your family's life in danger with "FSD"
If you want a reliable car, get a new Toyota Hybrid in the 20K-30K range. If feeling rich, the new Prius Prime with 40miles EV range could be sweet though I expect the demand to be crazy.
Olle
Active Member
going from car of the century to the dorkiest car known to man is probably exactly what she had in mind 
Olle
Active Member
Are the "100-type cells" in production for the current LR and Plaid S/X?
While on the topic of production; do you know if Tesla still produces spare battery packs for pre 2021 S/X, or did they only during production of concerned models? If only made during the main production run, will be interesting to find out in the future if they set aside too few or too many for spares...
Look on this forum for many postings about the 1014116 series of (new) replacement batteries for older Model S cars - these are being made out of current 100-type cells, but using 14 cells instead of 16. It would not make sense for Tesla to let batteries sit around as spares, because they degrade with calendar age.
Olle
Active Member
Interesting thanks! Hopefully that means there will be enough packs even if more early packs than expected were to fail. Straubel said they were designed for approximately 10 year lifespan so the first Ss are probably brushing up against the design limit by now.
interesting choice with 14 modules. I can see why, the simplicity of a single module type for all pack sizes keeps costs in check. 14 modules instead of 16 -> from original 400V to 350V. Makes you wonder if the electronics would overheat even quicker than before, as you would use more current at 350V. That was my only complaint on my 2012 P85, after 10 min of spirited driving it got hot and reduced power. But perhaps most of them have gotten a less heat prone DU under warranty by now. Mine got replaced several times in the beginning.
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Cell degradation was a huge problem for Gen 1 Priuses. People would get an expensive replacement battery that had been warehoused for years. Only had 1 -year warranty and it would die quickly.
A company made an aftermarket battery using new Gen 2 cells which was cheaper and better.
Better to be able to use adapted current cells.
It’s probably the coolant pump that is causing power. I had at one point of my 2017 Model S 75rwd, at 50k miles, after driving 45 minutes, it reduced my power. Brought it to the service center, they replaced the all the coolant pump and valves.
Olle
Active Member
Nope, my P85 was like that from day one, brand new.
Your 2017 probably has a better, newer style DU than my 2012 that doesn’t overheat as easily, (if everything including coolant pumps are in order. )
I'll start by saying I usually don't defend Tesla. However, other than manufacturer 'good will,' really Tesla (or any other car manufacturer) has any obligation in a situation like this. A warranty is a contract. Whether you drive the car a lot or a little, it's for a a defined time period. As an owner of any vehicle this has to be recognized. (Which is why I sold my VW Hybrid when it started having issues while still under warranty). While it is disappointing to have a low mile vehicle have issues, it happens in any type of vehicle. I had an Audi A4, 10 years old with only 77k miles. Had horrific oil consumption and should've been serviced under an extended service program, but it hadn't and the program expired. I tried to get Audi to do it. Was I disappointed when they didn't. Absolutely. Did I feel they had any obligation, no -- the warranty and subsequent service program had long expired.
Odds are this isn't 'degradation' that is hidden. More likely, considering it is an early vehicle, there has been a failure internal to the pack with a BMS board or water infiltration. In your case, with the low miles, it is an ideal candidate for service through 057 Tech, as they have the capability to diagnosis the pack and perform repairs if it is a BMS board.
To expect a car company to warranty an issue 9 years after the vehicle was new, that's kind of stretching it.
I would disagree. There is plenty of usability left in that vehicle. My only concern (as an early RWD) is that what is the condition of the drive motor. That should be inspected for coolant leakage before popping for a battery. You don't want to have a drive unit failure right after installing the battery
Would be interesting to have 057wk chime in on this. I have wondered too if it's just anecdotal that low mile Teslas seem to have more battery issues or not. Suspect 057 has some statistics gathered on this.
In my case I have a 2015 with 132k miles. I drive it hard an often. Peform about 40% supercharging. Looking at the Teslafi data, no significant degradation from 70k miles (when I purchased) onward
Watts_Up
Well-Known Member
Did you you ever considered running the Scan My Tesla app, to get information regarding the whole battery capacity degradation
and cell information such as voltage balancing, cell temperature, and other information that Teslafi could not access?
Also would it be worthwhile doing a Tesla Battery Health Test which could allow I believe to rebalace the cells and could improve
this way the whole battery capacity, and determine battery health and a degradation information.
You literally disagreed with me and then disagreed with yourself in the same post.
It's 9 years old, so in addition to an expensive pending DU failure, it's probably ready to have suspension issues soon too, and who knows about the MCU and displays that go bad with time as well. Why would you want an 85 year old dumping good money after bad?
Some parts have been through multiple revisions until Tesla got it right. It is interesting that cars that are driven more have a higher likelihood of having those earlier parts replaced with more robust, later revisions.
Yes, you can keep any car going if you want to spend the money it takes to keep it going. Doesn't mean you should keep it going.
You're right. That's why I'm a fan of folks like Jay Leno, the Petersen Museum, Bill Harrah, etc.
My fun car is a 1965 Jaguar E-Type Roaster that was previously owned by the CEO of the company that invented the catalytic converter. Which is ironic since it doesn’t have a catalytic converter. In fact, while my Model S is an “emissions-free” car and my Jag is an “emissions-equipment-free” car.
