Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

HVAC: Low Current Pump Failure

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
Yesterday I got a "HVAC: Low Current Pump Failure" message on the VDS.
OVMS gave me 11 of these (Vehicle Alert #1425) throughout the day.

Today no errors (it did a top off charge last night, and nothing since then).

Is this error indicative of an issue with the AC / Heating in the car, or can it also impact the battery cooling (right now the battery is at 80.6 F, so no issues there)? How much should I worry about it, and how quickly do I need to get it taken care of?

Thanks!
 
Thanks, everyone - some good thoughts here. I'll double check the coolant level tonight - I checked a couple weeks back and it was fine.

X.l.r.8 - It's a 1.5, so that seems like the right part, though I don't really have a location wherein I can work on it at the moment.

The error message hasn't reoccurred, and I didn't get the "service required" message that jeremyz had. I'm hoping this can safely wait a little bit until it is more convenient for me to be able to address the issue...
 
It looks like the coolant is a bit low. I'll try adding more and see if that helps. How long do people normally find the coolant lasts before needing topping up?

I know I need the special eco-friendly coolant - anyone have a favorite and/or an online retailer for it?

Thanks again! Much appreciated.
 
Co-incidentally I've started getting the 1425 error message myself (I have the 2008 Roadster).

@ellidz did your issue go away or did you refill coolant?

Question - I've seen 1425 and 1426 both being referred to the same coolant system issue so I'm a bit confused. From what I've read,1425 = Low Current Pump Failure and 1426 = High Current Pump Failure. Am I correct in assuming they are not the same? Can someone please clarify which pump is related to the 1425 error? Is it the one in front of the right rear wheel well?

Thanks

Sujit
 
Co-incidentally I've started getting the 1425 error message myself (I have the 2008 Roadster).

@ellidz did your issue go away or did you refill coolant?

Question - I've seen 1425 and 1426 both being referred to the same coolant system issue so I'm a bit confused. From what I've read,1425 = Low Current Pump Failure and 1426 = High Current Pump Failure. Am I correct in assuming they are not the same? Can someone please clarify which pump is related to the 1425 error? Is it the one in front of the right rear wheel well?

Thanks

Sujit

After that one day where I got a plethora of them, it didn't reoccur. It took me about a week to top up the coolant, so I'm not sure if the coolant addressed the issue or if it cleared on its own.

-Larry
 
  • Like
Reactions: sujitdmello
For posterity's sake: my Low Current Pump Failure messages came back a little over a month later. It also refused to accept a charge (240v).

Took it into the shop and it turns out the pump needs replacing.

The pump apparently cools both the AC and the battery. I was able to drive it the ~20 miles or so to the shop without any issues - I watched the batter, PEM, and motor temperatures and none of them went particularly high.

-Larry
 
My 1.5 Roadster's Coolant Pump has now failed (Alert #1425).

My local Service Center no longer works on Roadsters, but I've managed to get an appointment at the Tyson's Corner VA Service Center, about a 15 mile drive. I tried topping up the coolant just in case that was the problem, but the pump is definitely not running.

My car is in my garage, ESS temperature is currently 73F/23C, and I expect the morning temperature Friday to be about 50F/10C.

My question: Is it likely safe to drive this distance, or is it too risky and I need to arrange a tow?
 
I drove further than that with the same error without issue. I was ready to pull over and call a tow if the temperatures went too high, but thankfully that wasn't needed.

I don't recall the outside temperature on that day, but I'm in SoCal, so it was certainly higher than 50F/10C.

What I can't tell you is whether I took a large risk and lucked out or if it is low risk.

-Larry
 
Drive it easy and you shouldn't have a problem. It takes a while to heat up the battery. There is not a lot of coolant volume outside of the ESS, so there is really minimal cooling taking place until the A/C kicks on for the cooldown cycle. The main purpose is to keep all the cellls at the same temp.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: eHorses
I drove further than that with the same error without issue. I was ready to pull over and call a tow if the temperatures went too high, but thankfully that wasn't needed.

I don't recall the outside temperature on that day, but I'm in SoCal, so it was certainly higher than 50F/10C.

What I can't tell you is whether I took a large risk and lucked out or if it is low risk.

-Larry

Thanks, Larry.

From what you had posted before, I wasn't certain that your pump had completely failed before going to the Service Center.

Drive it easy and you shouldn't have a problem. It takes a while to heat up the battery. There is not a lot of coolant volume outside of the ESS, so there is really minimal cooling taking place until the A/C kicks on for the cooldown cycle. The main purpose is to keep all the cellls at the same temp.

Thanks, @ML Auto!

I had guessed this was the case, but still understandably nervous. I think I'm going to go for it. Might park outside Thursday night to hedge my bet.
 

My 1.5 coolant pump went bad August 2022. It wasn’t too hard to replace, I borrowed a low profile floor jack and Jack stands to prop up the right passenger side of the car. You’ll need to remove the right rear wheel and the plastic cover behind to access the pump. The pump is a Bosch unit available on Amazon for ~$100. A pair of water pump pliers will help remove the tension spring clamps that keep the hoses attached to the pump.

I did the replacement myself without help so it was hard not to leak coolant all over the place. Luckily I was able to find the green Peak Sierra SEP003, though the availability varies.

It’s best to vacuum the air out of course but I don’t have that equipment so I just let the pump run and continued to top off the coolant (about 32 oz worth) until it stabilized.

Here is my Instagram reel on it:


This link above is very detailed and explains the procedure well. Make sure you inhibit the APS before doing anything!
 
Just to give a quick update... I drove the Roadster to the Tyco Service Center with no issues. I watched the temperature bars, and the battery stayed steady in the 2nd bar.

At some point during the drive, the pump started running (because, of course, issues must become intermittent when going to service). Thanks to OVMS, I know they have seen at least one 1425 error code. I asked them to replace the pump even if they didn't see any errors.