this.. i will drive them to bald in colorado if its june - october... then its time to get serious for winterIf I lived in Arizona or Nevada I would drive all the way down to 3/32 or less and feel perfectly safe... based on the annual rainfall
Keith
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Hydroplaned and crashed. Driving for 50 years. Never happened before.
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sleepydoc
Well-Known Member
Why? that's the beginning of ski season and your tires would be perfect!
Seems like many factors at play here. Environment, equipment, driver reaction all plays a part in this scenario.
buddhafree
2022 MYP
thesmokingman
Active Member
An interesting data point here:
Just removed my Gemini set and put on my new 18" Tsportline wheels and tires from tire rack and for giggles I measured the tread depth on the old tires. They are down to 6/32 on what were the front wheels, and 4/32 on the rear... they should have been rotated a while back but I knew I was getting the new wheels and tires so I just skipped it. This is with around 20,000 miles of use on the tires, and in general I don't drive the car hard. If I didn't have the new wheels and tires, and living where I live I would have rotated them and gotten another 10,000 miles out of them, but it is easy to get down to dangerously low tread depth without realizing it.
So, knowing that I will not get an answer from him, I have to wonder about the mileage on the OP's tires and weather or not he rotated them as needed?
Stay safe people!
Keith
Just removed my Gemini set and put on my new 18" Tsportline wheels and tires from tire rack and for giggles I measured the tread depth on the old tires. They are down to 6/32 on what were the front wheels, and 4/32 on the rear... they should have been rotated a while back but I knew I was getting the new wheels and tires so I just skipped it. This is with around 20,000 miles of use on the tires, and in general I don't drive the car hard. If I didn't have the new wheels and tires, and living where I live I would have rotated them and gotten another 10,000 miles out of them, but it is easy to get down to dangerously low tread depth without realizing it.
So, knowing that I will not get an answer from him, I have to wonder about the mileage on the OP's tires and weather or not he rotated them as needed?
Stay safe people!
Keith
Account created, post about hydroplaning cars, logged off within an hour of creating account, and never logged back in. This fits the pattern I was talking about in the above quote.
boulder.dude
Member
I’m rotating the tires every 3.5K miles, which is a pain.
But it’s essentially a rear wheel drive car with rear wheel brakes, so…
But it’s essentially a rear wheel drive car with rear wheel brakes, so…
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
A Simple explanation... the driver ran out of talent.
Well, since he broke the troll pattern and actually replied once in this thread to tell us the tread depth on his tires, it looks like he ran out of tread depth for wet conditions at 4/32...
Keith
Tire Rotation - Learn How to Rotate Tires | Michelin
Learn how to rotate tires with Michelin. Tire rotation, when done on a regular basis, can improve the performance and life expectancy of your tires. Learn more here.
www.michelinman.com
I rotate and balance tires every 6000 miles at Costco. They seem to wear evenly. If old tires have no sign of uneven wear, car pulls to one side while driving etc.. then I don't need wheel alignment when new tires installed, and so far I have no need for wheel alignment even on my 1996 ME E-320
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
FYI - He ran out of talent... It's a common race track saying for wet conditions.
Pointless thread at this point, as our "real" experiences are all the same, but I'll add mine.
Highway driving in the DFW region. 4/32-5/32" all around, ContiProContact, 28k miles. Serious thunderstorm, deep puddles everywhere. I definitely felt on the edge of hydroplaning at 65-70mph.
I slowed down, avoided sudden directional changes. If I had encountered an emergency maneuver, I would have hydroplaned.
No different than in any previous car, even with NEW tires/tread. It's my opinion that in heavy rain situations, the brand of tire, the "wet" rating of a tire, doesn't matter. Those hyper advertised/engineered/designed sipes will still be overwhelmed by water quantity.
The laws of physics always prevail.
Highway driving in the DFW region. 4/32-5/32" all around, ContiProContact, 28k miles. Serious thunderstorm, deep puddles everywhere. I definitely felt on the edge of hydroplaning at 65-70mph.
I slowed down, avoided sudden directional changes. If I had encountered an emergency maneuver, I would have hydroplaned.
No different than in any previous car, even with NEW tires/tread. It's my opinion that in heavy rain situations, the brand of tire, the "wet" rating of a tire, doesn't matter. Those hyper advertised/engineered/designed sipes will still be overwhelmed by water quantity.
The laws of physics always prevail.
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If we spend time and read up on "Lubrication theory" and how it impacts CoF then it's very easy to explain hydroplaning
EVer Hopeful
Active Member
FYI - He ran out of talent... It's a common race track saying for wet conditions.
Oh, I understood what you were saying... but if you go out on a wet track on tires that are not adequate for wet conditions that is a miscalculation in your race teams planning more than a lack of talent... the OP didn't plan well.
Keith
That's the legal minimum around here for rain/wet conditions. Legal minimum for snow and ice is 6/32 for the M+S (all season) tire rating to apply, which gets you out of having to put on tire chains during R-1 and R-2 chain control conditions if you have AWD and M+S tires on all 4 wheels. I try to replace my tires at or above 6/32 and if going to somewhere it snows, I try to have at least 7/32 of tread on them. My opinion is that it's never good to be doing the bare minimum to meet legal requirements because if there's anything unusual (like driving into deep water unexpectedly), it makes it that much more likely that something will go wrong.
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