I bit the bullet and installed 14-50

[drj3]

I have a pretty short commute (14 miles roundtrip) and used the 110 V outlet in the attached garage for the first 5 months of ownership. To be honest it is just fine 97 % of the time. But occasionally I drive to a nearby city about 240 miles round trip. I found that if I drive more than usual the day before, it is hard to get up to 100% before I leave the next morning. In cold weather at 80 mph most of the way I need a supercharging stop to make the trip. Also the last trip I made I came home with about 15 miles range remaining. Driving around more than usual the next day I had to pull into the local supercharger to add a few miles. Charging 6X faster should help eliminate these issues, plus I understand 240 V charging is more energy efficient.
A word of advice though - get more than one bid for the electrical work. The first bid I got was literally double the bid I took. ($650 vs $1300) - both from licensed electricians with large companies.

 

[Silicon Desert]

A word of advice though - get more than one bid for the electrical work. The first bid I got was literally double the bid I took. ($650 vs $1300) - both from licensed electricians with large companies.

yes, and I think this is true with most any electrical work like this. I got 3 bids for putting in my 60 amp conduit run and breakers in the garage. They were $525, $840, and $1290 ! (not including permit). Clearly the $1290 guy wasn't that interested in doing it.

 

[SigNC]

I limped along on a 20amp 120 for a while and while it works it certainly makes you have to do a lot more planning. IMO the 14-50 is well worth the money.

 

[03DSG]

The larger local company I used was $1000 less for the identical work than a smaller local company.

 

[trident]

Installed the same, 125' of #6 cable, 60 Amp Breaker, electrical plug and box, $277.00. Electrician bid $200 for the job, but it took both of us 2.5 hours to snake the cable over to the other side of the garage. Works great and glad I did it. I did pay him $400.

 

[Rocky_H]

Installed the same, 125' of #6 cable, 60 Amp Breaker,

When you use the word "cable", that usually means bundled Romex, rather than separate wires in conduit, and from the picture, it looks like it's all inside the wall, which would seem to indicate Romex as well. Is that what you used?

I'm asking because 6 gauge Romex would only be rated up to 55A maximum. You can't do a 60A circuit with that. But if it's wire in conduit, that would be rated for 65A, so that would be fine.

*EDIT* Oh, jeez!!! I can't believe I missed the other glaringly obvious thing because your description didn't mention outlet, but the picture shows it. I was thinking wall connector. You cannot ever use a 14-50 outlet type with a 60A circuit breaker for any reason. That must be changed to a 50A breaker.

 

[mrau]

That a nice setup @trident . If you ever get a chance to turn the 14-50 socket 180 degrees, then the UMC can hang straight down and not have the bend. Doesn’t effect your charging either way though.

I agree to double check that you are using a 50 amp breaker. That would be code and the safest way (they don’t call it a 14-50 for nothing). That won’t effect your charging either since the most the UMC can draw is 32 amps.

I think that everyone should have at least a 14-50 outlet if they can. Removes a lot of “charge-up” anxiety.

 

[trident]

The electrician is changing out the breaker tomorrow to a 50. I installed a hanger for the unit that holds it in position. I did find the Tesla brochure that indicated a 60 Amp CB. Since, I am not an electrician I don't know why they show 60 Amps, but I can relate to the electrical system In a Boeing 777.

 

[Leeclanual]

The electrician is changing out the breaker tomorrow to a 50. I installed a hanger for the unit that holds it in position. I did find the Tesla brochure that indicated a 60 Amp CB. Since, I am not an electrician I don't know why they show 60 Amps, but I can relate to the electrical system In a Boeing 777./QUOTE]

50 amp.

 

[Runt8]

The electrician is changing out the breaker tomorrow to a 50. I installed a hanger for the unit that holds it in position. I did find the Tesla brochure that indicated a 60 Amp CB. Since, I am not an electrician I don't know why they show 60 Amps, but I can relate to the electrical system In a Boeing 777.

The LR Model 3 can charge at up to 48 amps, which requires a 60 amp circuit. However, you need to install the wall connector to make use of a 60 amp circuit. A NEMA 14-50 can't go on a circuit higher than 50 amps (technically it can go on a 50 or 40 amp circuit).

 

[eprosenx]

The electrician is changing out the breaker tomorrow to a 50. I installed a hanger for the unit that holds it in position. I did find the Tesla brochure that indicated a 60 Amp CB. Since, I am not an electrician I don't know why they show 60 Amps, but I can relate to the electrical system In a Boeing 777.

So the key thing from the document you included in your post is this:

The 60a circuit is recommended in order to max the charging ability of your car (assuming the LR M3 or an S or X), but only with a Wall Connector (not the UMC you are using).

This is the document you want to follow:
https://www.tesla.com/sites/default.../NEMA_14-50_installation_guide_NA_US_2017.pdf

Also, I do highly recommend inverting that receptacle 180 degrees. Just less stress on the adapter into the UMC in general (even if you are using a holder for it).

 

[trident]

Thanks to all, followed your advice and recommendations, made the changes. Very nice.

 

[jkoya]

The electrician is changing out the breaker tomorrow to a 50. I installed a hanger for the unit that holds it in position. I did find the Tesla brochure that indicated a 60 Amp CB. Since, I am not an electrician I don't know why they show 60 Amps, but I can relate to the electrical system In a Boeing 777.

Nice garage !

 

[trident]

Nice garage !

Thanks

 

[Needsdecaf]

Thanks to all, followed your advice and recommendations, made the changes. Very nice.

Yeah, that holder you were using didn't appear to be taking much strain off the cable. I have mine mounted so that the control pack hangs straight down, and I also put a drywall anchor in and screwed a velcro strap to the wall. I then wrapped it around the control pack so that the weight is borne by that, not on the outlet. It keeps the control pack from moving somewhat when I move the cable, and also takes the strain off the receptacle. I have a pack of drywall anchors at home and the velcro strap cost about $2.

 

[mrau]

That sounds about the same way I have mine. I did get a UMC holder from eBay that helps hold it steady on the wall when maneuvering the cable. Lots of good options. I think @trident has a nice setup too.

 

[trident]

Reconfigured to look like yours.

 

[StellarRat]

A word of advice though - get more than one bid for the electrical work. The first bid I got was literally double the bid I took. ($650 vs $1300) - both from licensed electricians with large companies.

Or get your brother to help you do it yourself for a free lunch and $60 in parts from Home Depot, MAWAHAHA!

 

[Runt8]

Or get your brother to help you do it yourself for a free lunch and $60 in parts from Home Depot, MAWAHAHA!

I wouldn’t trust my brother to plug in a toaster...

 

[StellarRat]

I wouldn’t trust my brother to plug in a toaster...

Well, I was lucky because my brother had wired a lot of 240v and 440v equipment in his factory, so he had lots of experience.