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I bought a Roadster, and I can't get it to charge

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I'm hoping its some safety cut off switch. My car also has a Chademo charging port installed. If its installed does that mean the normal port is deactivated and isnt accepting power? I pulled up the diagnostic screen and this is what I got.
 

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Where did you buy it and what was the CAC when you purchased it? Did they pull the ESS disconnect for shipment? 0% Min/Max indicates to me the battery is either disconnected or completely dead, which seems like you would have noticed before buying it.
 
There is a fault light on in the speedometer. Could there be a chance the battery is disconnected? And if so, where would I find the disconnect. Thank you for the help, I really appreciate it.
Click on the fault on the VDS when you are in service mode. It will tell you what the fault is.

If I remember correctly, when the traction battery is disconnected (by pulling the service disconnect in front of the driver rear tire) you would not have power to anything, including the VDS (but I could be wrong). If the APS was disabled (via the service menu) then you would get that message when you "woke" the car.

Frankly, I'm surprised you still have any power after 4-6 months at zero for the traction battery. I assumed the 12v would wear down in that time.

As I mentioned, download your logs (I sent you the link) and take a look. Also, reach out to Gruber.

Good luck.
 
Out of interest, what car was it?
At this point it’s just about going through the motions to see how far gone it is, it’s a good data gathering exercise. Prepare for the worst but you may find out a new sheet or 2 will get you going. That will also depend on how dirty you planned to get your hands.
 
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The main battery disconnect can be seen with the trunk open by looking down behind the left strut. It is orange and the handle should be latched downward. It can be reached by hand, but just barely.
 
The main battery disconnect can be seen with the trunk open by looking down behind the left strut. It is orange and the handle should be latched downward. It can be reached by hand, but just barely.
Hi, I was going through your comments in respect of my issues and note that you suggest disconnecting the ESS via the orange handle, but on my 2.5 it’s nigh on impossible to acces without dismantling the bodywork it seems. Any tips.:)
 
Hi, I was going through your comments in respect of my issues and note that you suggest disconnecting the ESS via the orange handle, but on my 2.5 it’s nigh on impossible to acces without dismantling the bodywork it seems. Any tips.:)
You MAY have to remove the driver side rear tire (or at least jack it up to create space between the tire and quarter panel), but you can definitely get to the disconnect without removing any bodywork.
 
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Hi, I was going through your comments in respect of my issues and note that you suggest disconnecting the ESS via the orange handle, but on my 2.5 it’s nigh on impossible to acces without dismantling the bodywork it seems. Any tips.:)

i am able to reach in and pull it without removing anything. Granted it is not easy and even slightly painful but doable. Just part of owning a TR. I am 6’ with long arms :). Don’t forget to disable the APS first.
 
I contacted Tesla SC to ask them for advice also since they are not able to collect the car for a few weeks. They suggested that I inhibit the APS and pull the 30Amp fuse undertake from bonnet. They advised that pulling the orange plug could be dangerous if I don't follow the correct procedures. Does removing the Fues and inhibiting the APS have the same affect on power drain as removing the orange plug?
 
Do you think low coolant in the battery coolant reservoir could be the cause of the fault messages I am getting. I don't see th other his any connection between the cooling system and the gear selection not working, but I notice from other threads that the coolant levels have sometimes cause odd error messages. Anything that you have experienced?