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I monitored the 12v battery voltage during an OTA update

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Ha, I had a software update today also, and a similar profile during the update. Even though the update only took 30 minutes, the car stayed awake for over an hour after that.

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I find that it generally takes ~2hr. of inactivity for my car to go back to sleep. I can only guess if the 12v battery needed more tending, it would extend that out (does an insomniac Tesla imply potentially dying 12v battery?)
 
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Adding my data points (2018 Model 3). Car has been unplugged. Looks similar to @power.saver.

My battery was recently replaced by Tesla during the FSD retrofit in late April. Tech said the "12V Battery Needs Service" warning was shown while the car was in their possession, which came as a surprise to me. I have never seen that warning nor experienced any issues up to that point. Glad that's now out of the way.

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So the DC-DC converter was actively 'pumping' up the 12v (14.35v) ... then the dip during parts of the OTA being applied and the 12v battery was on its own (dipped to 12.8v). The DC-DC converter is off during parts of the OTA since its software management wouldn't be running (i.e. during applying the related software components or the reboot). After the update, it boosts the 12v battery up again (14.35v). That is the way it 'feels' to me at least.
 
So the DC-DC converter was actively 'pumping' up the 12v (14.35v) ... then the dip during parts of the OTA being applied and the 12v battery was on its own (dipped to 12.8v). The DC-DC converter is off during parts of the OTA since its software management wouldn't be running (i.e. during applying the related software components or the reboot). After the update, it boosts the 12v battery up again (14.35v). That is the way it 'feels' to me at least.
I would think the DC-DC converter is still working away during sw installation. The 1st dip likely occurred at system reboot post installation (when you hear those contactors going off).
 
I would think the DC-DC converter is still working away during sw installation.
It would depend on what components (software dependencies) of the software they were updating and if that component was integral to the Tesla DC-DC converter software. You can't run the software for DC-DC converter if you are updating parts (all) of that software 'subsystem'! -- So this would vary by what each OTA did, of course.
 
We expect a full report of the findings and a picture of your new charging profile :D

As alluded to, we'll have to wait a little longer. Tesla would not do a warranty replacement while Mobile Service was out. Tesla recommended I disconnect 3rd party apps (I did already try this, but did not change the password, just logged out; however, I forgot I had ABRP connected still, so who knows what it was doing). So I've redone my password and we will see; only the Tesla app can connect now.

We'll see what happens. I actually think it's possible this could have been the issue - it just is hard to understand how this could be a battery issue with the way it is behaving. I guess I'd give it even odds.

Maybe next week I'll have resolution. I do think that I'll probably go pick up a Tesla battery even if it starts looking fine - just to have it ready to go. Relatively cheap insurance.

It doesn't appear there is any need to do any of the underseat disconnect procedure for a 12V battery replacement; the Mobile Service did not bother with that. Though he did have a battery charger as well, to give it a boost while he was working on software updates. In any case, it should be pretty easy to replace.
 
As alluded to, we'll have to wait a little longer. Tesla would not do a warranty replacement while Mobile Service was out. Tesla recommended I disconnect 3rd party apps (I did already try this, but did not change the password, just logged out; however, I forgot I had ABRP connected still, so who knows what it was doing). So I've redone my password and we will see; only the Tesla app can connect now.

We'll see what happens. I actually think it's possible this could have been the issue - it just is hard to understand how this could be a battery issue with the way it is behaving. I guess I'd give it even odds.

Maybe next week I'll have resolution. I do think that I'll probably go pick up a Tesla battery even if it starts looking fine - just to have it ready to go. Relatively cheap insurance.

It doesn't appear there is any need to do any of the underseat disconnect procedure for a 12V battery replacement; the Mobile Service did not bother with that. Though he did have a battery charger as well, to give it a boost while he was working on software updates. In any case, it should be pretty easy to replace.

It will be interesting to know if ABRP was pinging your car all that time. I don't use any 3rd party apps, never know what they might be up to.
 
Since my HW3 installation (and a reminder, disengagement of 3rd party apps), the neural nets in the FSD computer are apparently working overtime to determine the status of my battery. ;)

Lots of time spent at 14.1-14.16V, which is brand new! A lot of time spent awake (it was fiddling around with downloading an update yesterday). Seems like it might be settling down now; will see whether it gets into a rhythm.

I am suspecting the third party apps (I suspect ABRP which I had not used in months, since I had already tried disabling Stats) were waking it every hour, but we will see. @brkaus to me it looks possible TeslaFi is disturbing your car as well. Wouldn’t change anything for a few days so you can establish a baseline...then you could try disabling it for a day or two if you happen to be leaving the car sitting for that time. Before then, I expect to have a better idea of whether that was my issue.

FSD install, of course, is where the monitor drops out for a few hours.

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@AlanSubie4Life i suspect teslafi is keeping it awake longer, but I do not think it can be the cause of the wake ups. This is something I will be watching.

why did yours drop to 9v? That looks like a problem to me. What is the voltage across the battery when it’s disconnected from the car? There is no way it should drop that sharp to 9v
 
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why did yours drop to 9v? That looks like a problem to me. What is the voltage across the battery when it’s disconnected from the car? There is no way it should drop that sharp to 9v

The 12V and the monitor were disconnected during the HW3 install. Negative terminal of both devices was disconnected. These readings do not represent the open circuit battery voltage. They are not readings - just missing data.