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I replaced my own battery heater

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Okay. I disconnected the 12v and then the responders loop, waited about 15 minutes and bam! I'm good to go. Running like a champ. Thanks for suggesting. I never would have thought of doing another disconnect since it was disconnected the entire time I was working on it. I guess it needed one more restart after updating the new part with the 2020.48.37.1 software. No need to meet the ranger and pay to have him do this easy task. Thanks again. If anyone has questions about replacing the battery heater I can help. Total cost of $55. Actually I lost one of the bolts that holds the air cleaner housing. So it's really $55.55. I'm sure if your careful you can do it for $55.00 lol.

Those are the worst. I've lost so many of them. And a 10mm socket.
 
Hi, I am sure the $195 per hour charge doesn't help, but I was told the battery for the coolant heater and fuse had to be replaced. Being told $1500 will be the bill. Anybody find details on the warranty that this would be covered under? Mine is a 2015 70D Model S. Not the handiest guy in the world, so I would be pissed if this really was relatively easy to do for $55 ......
 
This was an excellent read, thank you for posting. I recently had this happen and immediately assumed the battery HV contactor had failed, so I had the car towed to Tesla. Then they told me it was the heater, but it would have cost me that to get it towed back. Next time, I will keep remote diagnostics in mind.
 
This was an excellent read, thank you for posting. I recently had this happen and immediately assumed the battery HV contactor had failed, so I had the car towed to Tesla. Then they told me it was the heater, but it would have cost me that to get it towed back. Next time, I will keep remote diagnostics in mind.
Never mind problem is back...misdiagnosed? I am trying to get remote diagnostics, however, Roadside nor the Service Center say they can do it, so the car is sitting in my daughter's daycare parking lot...
 
When I look on eBay for heaters, the part numbers end in different letters from what the SC says they’re planning to use for replacement. Does the letter matter or are these just year/generation indicators?
As others pointed out, it's a revision indicator. "A" is the first revision, "B", 2nd revision, etc. Often these are really minor changes and could indicate something trivial like a color change, but could also be something more significant. Not all revisions make it to production so sometimes it appears to skip letters. Since there have been a few problems with this part failing, it may be due to a marginal design that has now been fixed. I'd seriously consider getting the latest revision part if you can get it, even if you're going to install it yourself. You may save yourself going through the same repair a few years from now.
 
It was really cold recently and I got the warnings- car may not restart and acceleration and top speed reduced -- also no regen. Tesla remote diagnosed it as failing battery heater and quoted me $705. My car is out of warranty so I bought a used battery heater out of a 2018 model S and replaced it myself. It was quite difficult to reach everything that is buried under the cowl but otherwise straight forward following the instructions in the service manual.
I decided to do the job yesterday because I had just received notification that 2020.48.37.3.1 was ready to be installed and I had read that if you change a part you need to reinstall the software to remove the warnings and limitations applied (crippled acceleration and no regen). Well the warnings and limitations are still there after successful installation of the new update. Does anyone know why this is? Can anyone help me remove these warnings? According to SMT the battery heater is working fine. It ran at 100% and raised the coolant temp from 57 degrees to 111 degrees fairly quickly. I just need to get the warnings removed.
Anyone has the link to the service manual for this job?
 
Did you wear high voltage gloves?
Screenshot_20240122_082752_Chrome.jpg
 
I love home-made ingenuity and resourcefulness, nice job OP.

Now, can you please share how you disconnected the first responder loop? I was thinking of doing a BMS reset on my 2020 Model S via the service menu, but that requires the contactors to be open and I believe disconnecting the first responder loop will open the contactors?
 
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