I scraped the side of my Model S tonight (passenger side, the panel behind the rear wheel) against a concrete pillar in a parking garage. I've only had the car 7 months - I feel sick and I'm so mad at myself I could spit. It's a surface scrape, no dent, but it looks awful. Is my only recourse a Tesla-approved body shop?
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I scraped the side of my car, now what?
- Thread starter Merenkov
- Start date
If it was me? I'd beat myself up and spend days not forgiving myself.
If I was someone else? I'd let it go, and I'd ask Tesla service what they recommended. They do light body work (at least some of the service places do), but they might be able to recommend a paint shop. After doing some math I'd figure out if my best option was to work with insurance or pay it out of pocket.
If I was someone else? I'd let it go, and I'd ask Tesla service what they recommended. They do light body work (at least some of the service places do), but they might be able to recommend a paint shop. After doing some math I'd figure out if my best option was to work with insurance or pay it out of pocket.
I had the same experience with a low wall on the ramp in a parking garage....too short for me to see. My damage was to the bottom of the passenger door....Slight indentation about 16 inches long. I took it to our local highly-approved Tesla body shop and they replaced the door. I will only go to Tesla-trained shops and this one was highly recommended by Tesla's collision department. Perfect job.
I felt stupid when it happened. One person said not to even fix it but my car deserves better care than that.
I felt stupid when it happened. One person said not to even fix it but my car deserves better care than that.
JPoldo
Member
I agree but would also ask your local Tesla SC. If they don't do it, surely they will recommend someone. Don't get insurance company involved because your deductible applies and adds penalty points. I made a blunder much worse than yours - left rear door open when backing out of garage. Repair cost $17,000. I felt REALLY stupid.
Thanks everyone, for the advice and mutual horror stories. I need to remind myself that it's only an object, no one got hurt, but dang, it's going to be a while before I forgive myself. Since it was a superficial wound, I'm going to take it by a body shop that did excellent work on my Lexus for years for an estimate. I have a feeling it's not the kind of repair that requires a Tesla-certified shop...
It certainly will be faster at a normal high quality shop, rather than dealing with backlog at Tesla approved. Should be fine if cosmetic and part replacement is not required. I had my hood repainted due to superficial scratch and tiny dent for $800.
OrbiterTI4
Member
Depending on size, check with local service center on if they do the work or nearby body shops do - my wife scraped the garage door frame against the front passenger quarter panel - $300 repair&repaint at a Service King (while it was there for a separate $18k accident repair...)
So here's an update on my scrape. Turns out most of the visible "damage" was just yellow paint transferred from the concrete column I swiped (I had initially thought it was the color of the car below the paint surface). After washing it with hot, soapy water and a Mr. Clean 'Magic Eraser', the scrape is barely visible. For those not familiar, those Magic Erasers are dense sponges made of melamine foam. Its tiny pores make for a light abrasive, like an extra-extra-fine sheet of sandpaper. Took the yellow paint off like magic. I'll apply some wax, too, but for now I really have to look to find it. I may still get it fixed eventually because I know it's still there, but this simple solution works for the time being.
I think the Magic Eraser is fairly abrasive. I’m happy it worked for you. Correct me if I am wrong but I assume you have a bit of a hazy area in the clear coat where the Magic Eraser was used.
You can get some car polish and buff out those tiny abrasive scratches if you want. You want a true “polish” not a wax product commonly referred to as a polish. The polish you get should not have any wax. Anyway that polish on a soft cloth will allow you to bring that area of paint back to its original luster. In the future you can start with the polish instead of the Magic Eraser to take off surface blemishes. Another product worth trying is a clay bar. A clay bar will take off surface contamination and leave you with a slick paint surface. It’s good for removing difficult bug remains and specks of tar as well. I don’t know if the clay would have taken off that yellow paint, I assume it probably would. The clay slides over the surface but sticks to things on the surface so takes them off leaving pristine clear coat behind. (If you try a clay bar, don’t drop it. If it hits the ground, throw it away, embedded sand makes it scratch paint).
I’m glad things worked out well. I’m a believer in the protective wrap, I had it (X-Pel) applied to the hood and leading surfaces, that’s a whole lot cheaper than the full body wrap yet gives you a lot of protection on the road. Also it “self heals” when warmed in the sun, within reason of course.
You can get some car polish and buff out those tiny abrasive scratches if you want. You want a true “polish” not a wax product commonly referred to as a polish. The polish you get should not have any wax. Anyway that polish on a soft cloth will allow you to bring that area of paint back to its original luster. In the future you can start with the polish instead of the Magic Eraser to take off surface blemishes. Another product worth trying is a clay bar. A clay bar will take off surface contamination and leave you with a slick paint surface. It’s good for removing difficult bug remains and specks of tar as well. I don’t know if the clay would have taken off that yellow paint, I assume it probably would. The clay slides over the surface but sticks to things on the surface so takes them off leaving pristine clear coat behind. (If you try a clay bar, don’t drop it. If it hits the ground, throw it away, embedded sand makes it scratch paint).
I’m glad things worked out well. I’m a believer in the protective wrap, I had it (X-Pel) applied to the hood and leading surfaces, that’s a whole lot cheaper than the full body wrap yet gives you a lot of protection on the road. Also it “self heals” when warmed in the sun, within reason of course.
Yes, a slight hazy area where the Magic Eraser was used. Thanks for the advice regarding true polish, that will be the next step...
dk10438
Member
wouldn't use the magic eraser as previously noted. I'd try to buff it out with some compound and a polish...
I highly recommend this Meguiar's kit for these types of scratch/scuff repairs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVL7YSG/
Here is the before and after of a Model 3 that this kit was used on to repair/remedy a fairly substantial scuff (not my car):
Here is the before and after of a Model 3 that this kit was used on to repair/remedy a fairly substantial scuff (not my car):
