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I'm shocked you noticed a difference at all if you didn't add an aftermarket amplifier. I pretty much gutted all the factory speakers and went aftermarket, but I added a 5 channel Alpine amp to power everything. I have to admit that turning my volume to 4 out of 11 can be overkill though.

Mmh, in my standard audio, just replacing the stock speakers with the kappa infinity the change was dramatic.
Mostly in the highs and mids, that went from muddy to crisp (flat eq)
The NVX sub addition made it perfect.
 
Here´s an update-
I had the chance to drive a Mercedes AMG E63 with a Burmester (and sub) over the week end, and the system sounds worse than the ETON/Kappa (second row) variant in my MS (without sub). Muddy, distanced, non transparent and weak. We played extensively with the EQ/Dolby settings, no dice. Didn´t expect my version to be that perfect.
 
Are you folks changing the amps on the factory speakers as part of your install. I have some really high end separates which I was considering to install in my Model S, but typically upgraded speakers require more clean wattage to obtain the most benefit.

Your thoughts?
 
Has anyone with Standard Audio installed an aftermarket sub in the (empty) sub cavity and if so, what unit was installed?
Please refer to page 4 on this thread (#76), and read my comments. At first I went with the NXV sub (the first photo). It was great. I had it close to a year, but I needed just a bit more bottom end plus I wanted something very special (as in hiding the sub altogether). The last two photos of the sub was installed about 6 months ago. I had the installer to autograph it.

Since I am a audiophile, I also had my installer replace the front door and tweeters with audiofrog speakers which was completed last month. I kept the factory speakers in the rear. Here is my list:

Front door and Tweeters: AudioFrog GB60 6" & GB10 1"
Amp with DSP: Mosconi D280.6DSP (6 to 8)
Sound Deadining in front doors (Masa Mat)
Sub Woofer: illusion Carbon C10"
Amp: JL Audio HD600/4

Good luck!
 
My ETONs arrived in the mail and I've been going back and forth on whether I want to install them myself. I thought it would be pretty easy, but the more I look into it, the more I'm realizing it's not a very simple job.

@trayloader Since you are the only person I know of that has done the 8" upgrade yourself using MDF, did you have to modify the interior door piece (the main "door" panel)?

It looks like you cut the door panel back a bit from picture 669. Is that right? I'm assuming this is because your bracket is flat, and the factory bracket is angled?

upload_2018-3-29_6-34-46.png


I'm assuming you cut off the factory wiring clip, and replaced it with your own?
upload_2018-3-29_6-37-32.png


I can't figure out what image 665, 711, 712, and 713 are showing.
upload_2018-3-29_6-35-5.png


upload_2018-3-29_6-35-49.png


upload_2018-3-29_6-36-5.png


upload_2018-3-29_6-36-16.png


Can you help me out a bit more, and tell me what steps you took, beyond making a MDF bracket and wiring it up? It looks like you re-used or modified some pieces, but I cant figure out what you did. Thanks!
 
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Hi Pioneers,

let me weigh in:
@Cyphaer
your observations are correct. Basically Tesla works with a "platform door" inner panel. They build them for the 8" Premium audio, and a standard audio car has the smaller spacers glued as You can observe. Yet even when the reduction ring is removed due to the nature of my MDF speaker ring which is not angled it slightly touches this "wind reduction ring", so I had to dremel it (no worries wind is still blocked since under the speaker grill is a grey tissue material as You can see in the photos above).
And yes, I cut off the factory wiring clip which is just a cosmetic thing.
95% of all speakers have normal screw terminals, why Tesla chooses the "Apple approach" to own connectors is beyond my understanding.

Maybe Matt_in_CA will join and share his thoughts on the installation too.
 
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