Ideal Aftermarket Audio System for Model S

[MoonChou]

B.A Designworks = ex-Light Harmonic

Same Hardware, different name. Same shills. Guess they had to do something after this fiasco.

Stay away. Still the same old, too small spakers.

Have you ever actually tried BA speakers?

Can you back up your statements with facts?

Adding in my 2 cents. I did place an order about 2 weeks ago and it should be arriving this upcoming Thursday (Website says Ships in 1-2 weeks) so at least that much is true in my case.

When I called the number on the website to ask a question Brody picked up in a very reasonable time and was very helpful.

Even if light harmonic did screw up and had/has a very bad reputation there is nothing wrong with a company trying embracing change for the better.

That being said though we'll see after I install my kit *excited*

 

[ACA Man]

Adding in my 2 cents. I did place an order about 2 weeks ago and it should be arriving this upcoming Thursday (Website says Ships in 1-2 weeks) so at least that much is true in my case.

When I called the number on the website to ask a question Brody picked up in a very reasonable time and was very helpful.

Even if light harmonic did screw up and had/has a very bad reputation there is nothing wrong with a company trying embracing change for the better.

That being said though we'll see after I install my kit *excited*

Brody used to work for LH and that’s about it.
BA Design is NOT LH.

I can only wish people knew the facts prior to posting misleading information.
As the owner of a high-end audio company, I am not easy to please when it comes to sound so...

 

[Muzzman1]

I wonder if Brody can get his hands on the LH amp. That's probably the nicest part of the LH upgrade. I have it on my MS with the speakers and a sounqubed sub. I could not be more pleased. It's been in the car for 2 yrs at this point (I think) and I still love it.
If Brody moved on and supports his customers, there's no reason why his products can't be great as well. The only problem with LH was their response times.

 

[cyphear]

I got one of the ETONs installed, and it is unfortunately lacking bass compared to the factory speakers. I switched back and forth between speakers and pretty much the only thing I noticed was that the ETONs are less sensitive (quieter) and also lack a lot of mid-range bass. They do have some small amount of low-end bass which introduced the door unit rattle. That's pretty much the only evidence of any bass increase. Don't get me wrong, there is some bass there, but when compared to the factory speaker it's actually less mid-range bass. I didn't find any leaking air around my mount, or other problems with the install. I didn't install the tweeter, but they also don't sound any clearer than the factory speakers.

I'm not sure what to do next. Does speaker break-in make a significant difference?

 

[evster]

I got one of the ETONs installed, and it is unfortunately lacking bass compared to the factory speakers. I switched back and forth between speakers and pretty much the only thing I noticed was that the ETONs are less sensitive (quieter) and also lack a lot of mid-range bass. They do have some small amount of low-end bass which introduced the door unit rattle. That's pretty much the only evidence of any bass increase. Don't get me wrong, there is some bass there, but when compared to the factory speaker it's actually less mid-range bass. I didn't find any leaking air around my mount, or other problems with the install. I didn't install the tweeter, but they also don't sound any clearer than the factory speakers.

I'm not sure what to do next. Does speaker break-in make a significant difference?

Thanks for providing the information!

One observation I've made is that the standard speakers are MUCH better now than in earlier cars. I also have a Model S AP2.5 car which is late 2017 and I find my standard speakers being a lot better than in the Ultra-HIFI 2016 car I had previously. To be honest, the Ultra Hifi just had some boomier bass (with the sub), but the standard stereo is to my ears much better listening to music at volume 8 with a normal bass level.

I think Tesla did upgrade the speakers at some time. I remember I had a loaner with standard stereo (it was a 2016 facelift car) and the stereo was really bad. So upgrading standard speakers to 3rd party speakers might have been a much more needed thing on earlier built Model S.

Should add that I'm no audio expert and just like a normal good hifi in my car. But the standard stereo in my car is surprisingly good. And since I prefer it over my previous car with Ultra-hifi there must for sure have happened something?

 

[trayloader]

I got one of the ETONs installed, and it is unfortunately lacking bass compared to the factory speakers. I switched back and forth between speakers and pretty much the only thing I noticed was that the ETONs are less sensitive (quieter) and also lack a lot of mid-range bass. They do have some small amount of low-end bass which introduced the door unit rattle. That's pretty much the only evidence of any bass increase. Don't get me wrong, there is some bass there, but when compared to the factory speaker it's actually less mid-range bass. I didn't find any leaking air around my mount, or other problems with the install. I didn't install the tweeter, but they also don't sound any clearer than the factory speakers.

I'm not sure what to do next. Does speaker break-in make a significant difference?

That´s completely strange. Why ONE Eton only?
Could it be, that You switched cable poles? In this case it´s normally softer and lacks punch.
Did You uncouple the door units?

 

[cyphear]

I think Tesla did upgrade the speakers at some time.

My car was built in September of 2017, and the speaker part number is the same and looks the same as trayloader's (speakers look to be made in 2014). I think the factory stereo is pretty bad in about every respect.

That´s completely strange. Why ONE Eton only?
Could it be, that You switched cable poles? In this case it´s normally softer and lacks punch.
Did You uncouple the door units?

I just installed them one at a time, and I tested the first one before moving on to the second. I honestly thought the ETONs sounded pretty good (placebo effect) until I compared them to the factory speakers.

Yes, I verified polarity, and tried switching polarity just in case to see if that helped.

I should mention the ETONs are much higher quality speakers than the stock speakers. I am positive they are better speakers. Maybe they are lacking enough power on the stock head unit, assuming something isn't wrong with my install. I didn't use any foam seal between anything, so it's possible that is causing problems, but I also didn't feel any air leaking, and everything looked nice and tight to me.

 

[trayloader]

Question for all drummers: why is a bassdrum sealed?

 

[dcmetro]

So, I visited the Safe and Sound in Chantilly, VA yesterday. I have the standard sound so am looking into audio upgrades. Here's the options they gave:

1- Upgrade all speakers + Add Amp + Sub .. > $6K (Ofcourse best option, according to them )
2- Add Amp + Sub - Should add base and would allow them to tweak sound going into all speakers, which would surely improve sound. Then replace stock speakers, when ready
3- Replace all 4 door speakers + tweeter with Audiofrog (fronts) + tweeters and Focal (back)

Funny thing is two installers -- one said #2 and second that #3 --same location. Never heard of Etons, I was told.

So....here's my question -- what have been your experience? Would #2 even help with stock speakers? 1st guy told me if I go with #3, I will NOT hear much difference since Amp & Sub is necessary to make a big difference. Am confused.

Anyone in the DC area, whose got work done there (or somewhere else) and if so, what did you go with? Would love to hear what it sounds like too....if possible. Thanks!

 

[ACA Man]

So, I visited the Safe and Sound in Chantilly, VA yesterday. I have the standard sound so am looking into audio upgrades. Here's the options they gave:

1- Upgrade all speakers + Add Amp + Sub .. > $6K (Ofcourse best option, according to them )
2- Add Amp + Sub - Should add base and would allow them to tweak sound going into all speakers, which would surely improve sound. Then replace stock speakers, when ready
3- Replace all 4 door speakers + tweeter with Audiofrog (fronts) + tweeters and Focal (back)

Funny thing is two installers -- one said #2 and second that #3 --same location. Never heard of Etons, I was told.

So....here's my question -- what have been your experience? Would #2 even help with stock speakers? 1st guy told me if I go with #3, I will NOT hear much difference since Amp & Sub is necessary to make a big difference. Am confused.

Anyone in the DC area, whose got work done there (or somewhere else) and if so, what did you go with? Would love to hear what it sounds like too....if possible. Thanks!

What system do you have in your car now?

From my own experience, the guy who told you #3 is not much difference is full of it.

 

[dcmetro]

What system do you have in your car now?

From my own experience, the guy who told you #3 is not much difference is full of it.

I have the standard Tesla Model S Audio. Did not want to get the upgraded Audio so I can get it done later.

 

[ACA Man]

I have the standard Tesla Model S Audio. Did not want to get the upgraded Audio so I can get it done later.

Get the kit from BA Design to start.

 

[TaoJones]

So, I visited the Safe and Sound in Chantilly, VA yesterday. I have the standard sound so am looking into audio upgrades. Here's the options they gave:

1- Upgrade all speakers + Add Amp + Sub .. > $6K (Ofcourse best option, according to them )
2- Add Amp + Sub - Should add base and would allow them to tweak sound going into all speakers, which would surely improve sound. Then replace stock speakers, when ready
3- Replace all 4 door speakers + tweeter with Audiofrog (fronts) + tweeters and Focal (back)

Funny thing is two installers -- one said #2 and second that #3 --same location. Never heard of Etons, I was told.

So....here's my question -- what have been your experience? Would #2 even help with stock speakers? 1st guy told me if I go with #3, I will NOT hear much difference since Amp & Sub is necessary to make a big difference. Am confused.

Anyone in the DC area, whose got work done there (or somewhere else) and if so, what did you go with? Would love to hear what it sounds like too....if possible. Thanks!

For that kind of money, I'd suggest contacting Cliff Johnson @ Reus Audio (Reus Systems) in Orange, CA. Cliff travels, and if a local or regional owners club has several owners interested, travel costs can be split. I've had Reus systems in both cars (the first was configured with base audio, and the second with premium audio - the Reus upgrades improve either and markedly).

Back to the owners club - if you have any questions about why Tesla owners recommend Reus, see if someone in your local or regional club will let you sit in their car and listen. Bring a USB stick of your favorite uncompressed audio (e.g., FLAC files).

If you don''t listen to uncompressed audio, then I'd recommend not spending the money for any audio upgrades beyond the minimum. Not trying to being obstreperous - the analogy that comes to mind would be buying front row tickets for a cover band.

 

[LVThomas]

I have the BA Design Works system and I like it. Brody has been great to work with.

 

[drsaab]

@dcmetro

In my opinion you should get the front stage speakers done.

Do not spend any money on the rears.

2 way or 3 way up front.

Add a subwoofer in the trunk area

New Amp for speakers and sub

A Dsp to tune the system perfectly for your car specifically.

They make Dsp amp combos and also separate Dsp and amps

Audiofrog are excellent.

Helix makes an excellent Dsp and amp combo. The p six

Safe and sound deals with mosconi amps and Dsp which have similar features but are less user friendly if you want to tweak your system yourself later on.

Come to cars and cigars April 14 in sterling. Couple teslas will be there with aftermarket systems and you can hear Dsp vs no dsp. It’s huge.

Just changing speakers and amp doesn’t mean the system is tuned for your taste or car dynamics.

This setup can run lowest probably at 4-5k up-to 30k depending on installer and customization and fabrication.

Pm if you want more info.

 

[dcmetro]

Adding in my 2 cents. I did place an order about 2 weeks ago and it should be arriving this upcoming Thursday (Website says Ships in 1-2 weeks) so at least that much is true in my case.

When I called the number on the website to ask a question Brody picked up in a very reasonable time and was very helpful.

Even if light harmonic did screw up and had/has a very bad reputation there is nothing wrong with a company trying embracing change for the better.

That being said though we'll see after I install my kit *excited*

Let us know how it goes pls. I could look into it too, if it sounds good.

 

[dcmetro]

@dcmetro

In my opinion you should get the front stage speakers done.

Do not spend any money on the rears.

2 way or 3 way up front.

Add a subwoofer in the trunk area

New Amp for speakers and sub

A Dsp to tune the system perfectly for your car specifically.

They make Dsp amp combos and also separate Dsp and amps

Audiofrog are excellent.

Helix makes an excellent Dsp and amp combo. The p six

Safe and sound deals with mosconi amps and Dsp which have similar features but are less user friendly if you want to tweak your system yourself later on.

Come to cars and cigars April 14 in sterling. Couple teslas will be there with aftermarket systems and you can hear Dsp vs no dsp. It’s huge.

Just changing speakers and amp doesn’t mean the system is tuned for your taste or car dynamics.

This setup can run lowest probably at 4-5k up-to 30k depending on installer and customization and fabrication.

Pm if you want more info.

Sure, I can come then. Will PM you too.

 

[ACA Man]

Let us know how it goes pls. I could look into it too, if it sounds good.

As I mentioned elsewhere, just replace the speakers made a BIG difference in SQ.
I just need to find time to install the sub, amp, & controller.

 

[MoonChou]

Just finished my install yesterday. Took about 10 hours with help. The door speakers make a huge difference and could probably be done in about 2 hours. The sub took a little bit longer since I had no idea what I was doing. I ended up taking the 12v from the fuse box under the passenger's side so I didn't have to go through the firewall and then ran the 12v across the back seats. (No MCU issues or fuses blown as of yet).

So if I were to make a recommendation it would be to get the speakers and have it be a fun weekend project and only go for the sub if you really like a lot of bass. The door speakers are already a big improvement on bass.

 

[MoonChou]

I was missing the picture of the sub actually in..