Had an electrician come out and he looked at the sub-breaker box in the garage (detached) and said it is only getting 50A from the house. Trying to decide if it makes sense to get a wall charger. If I can run at 40A then it makes sense but if I can only run at 30A then it makes more sense, and is a bit cheaper, to just get a 14-30 plug installed.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
If I only have a 50A main in my garage, can I get a Wall Charger and run it at 40A to charge?
- Thread starter kadify
- Start date
Papagiorgio
Member
The whole point of the wall connector is for faster charging, so if you are not going to use a 60A, I don't know that I would have spent the money on the wall connector. You should be able to
Attachments
Last edited:
yes, the WC will 'recognize' the 50 amp circuit and run at 40 amp continuous juice.
To each their own. I normally charge at 32 amp at night, but on a rare occasion (e.g., fire evacuation alert) have run it at 48 amp. Did I need to spend the cash for a WC for my use? Clearly not. But I did.
To each their own. I normally charge at 32 amp at night, but on a rare occasion (e.g., fire evacuation alert) have run it at 48 amp. Did I need to spend the cash for a WC for my use? Clearly not. But I did.
32 to 40amps is really not a big difference if you want to save some money use the mobile charger
It doesn’t recognize, it’s told what size breaker it is on. Depending on other loads in the garage, I doubt an electrician would put it on a 50a breaker if the sub-panel is fed by a 50a breaker. No spare for any other use.
Depends on what else is connected to the same 50A circuit as well. You may have to dial down the max amps if there are other devices.
Details on the connector, with a nice chart of how fast various currents charge the car:
Wall Connector
A 14-30 may indeed be a good option. I like the WC so that I can leave the mobile connector in the car. It is also flexible in terms of the amps it can use and if you eventually get two or more they can share power so they don't exceed your 50A circuit.
Details on the connector, with a nice chart of how fast various currents charge the car:
Wall Connector
A 14-30 may indeed be a good option. I like the WC so that I can leave the mobile connector in the car. It is also flexible in terms of the amps it can use and if you eventually get two or more they can share power so they don't exceed your 50A circuit.
Critical reading fail. I missed the part of the 50 amp for the total garage as it was detached. I assumed that OP had a sub-panel of 50 amp for the tesla alone. So yeah, the WC can take all the juice, but that leaves nothing for a light or the garage door motor.
Very True.
Now I'm unsure. I took a picture of my main breaker panel and it has two breakers labelled 50A that are connected and the sub breaker box in the garage has two 60A switches? So I think I may have 100A? I'm not sure. I should get an electrician to explain this so I understand a bit better.
I think I'm just confused on how the WC works. If I get the WC installed do I set the max amps it can charge at or does it detect how much is safe? Does the WC ever draw more than it is outputting? So if it said it was outputting 30A, is it only drawing 30A or can it be drawing more?
Looks like your garage feed is 100amp. Garage sub panel only has 60amp main. Could replace that breaker and be fine with the WC.
I’d verify wire gauge before making any changes though.
Edit: also curious as to what your main panel is rated.
I’d verify wire gauge before making any changes though.
Edit: also curious as to what your main panel is rated.
This may be a dumb question but if the sub panel is rated for 100A (btw how did you know this?) is it common that the wire would be the limiting source? I would think from a permitting standpoint you would be required to have a breaker be the limiting factor and not the wire but maybe that isn't true? So basically, assuming I changed the breaker at the main breaker box, is it common/likely the wire could be rated for only 50A?
No idea on my main. Here are 2 photos of it, if is shows that info somewhere?
Can you clarify why it isn't the only reason to get the WC?
This may be a dumb question but if the sub panel is rated for 100A (btw how did you know this?) is it common that the wire would be the limiting source? I would think from a permitting standpoint you would be required to have a breaker be the limiting factor and not the wire but maybe that isn't true? So basically, assuming I changed the breaker at the main breaker box, is it common/likely the wire could be rated for only 50A?
No idea on my main. Here are 2 photos of it, if is shows that info somewhere?
Can you clarify why it isn't the only reason to get the WC?
Convenient. Can carry cord in car. Looks cool. Can show off to the neighbors. Adds to my TSLA valuation.
Two 50a breakers makes a 240v 50a circuit.
look at below picture from Wikipedia.
Your breakers are right where the V1 & V2 are in the diagram.
you get 120v between v1 & neutral.
You get 120v between v2 & neutral.
You get 240v between v1 & v2.
The individual hot wires (at the v1 & v2 label points) can still only carry a max of 50a. Each side gets a circuit breaker in case there is a short to something else. In the case of the car charging, it’s a loop and either side exceeding 50a will cause it to trip.
It has the bar across the breakers to make sure they both turn off.
look at below picture from Wikipedia.
Your breakers are right where the V1 & V2 are in the diagram.
you get 120v between v1 & neutral.
You get 120v between v2 & neutral.
You get 240v between v1 & v2.
The individual hot wires (at the v1 & v2 label points) can still only carry a max of 50a. Each side gets a circuit breaker in case there is a short to something else. In the case of the car charging, it’s a loop and either side exceeding 50a will cause it to trip.
It has the bar across the breakers to make sure they both turn off.
Last edited:
I cannot read the numbers on the main breaker at the top. The input to that panel would be 2x one of the 4 breakers (they should all be same). For example, if they show 50a, you have 100a service.
why? The 4 breakers are protecting the “v1” AND “v2” in the diagram. 2 are on each leg. When they are in parallel the rating is the sum.
why? The 4 breakers are protecting the “v1” AND “v2” in the diagram. 2 are on each leg. When they are in parallel the rating is the sum.
I don't think the bottom 3 breakers are labeled but there is a 200A label on the topmost breaker. So this would mean I have two sets of 100A breakers?
Papagiorgio
Member
The inside of the door will tell you what you have but it's cut off and not a clear photo of the white stickerThis may be a dumb question but if the sub panel is rated for 100A (btw how did you know this?) is it common that the wire would be the limiting source? I would think from a permitting standpoint you would be required to have a breaker be the limiting factor and not the wire but maybe that isn't true? So basically, assuming I changed the breaker at the main breaker box, is it common/likely the wire could be rated for only 50A?
No idea on my main. Here are 2 photos of it, if is shows that info somewhere?
Can you clarify why it isn't the only reason to get the WC?
Probably. Get a clear photo of the label and one of the top breaker.
it’s not wise to guess, but looking at the box & loads I think 200a would be realistic.
This may be a dumb question but if the sub panel is rated for 100A (btw how did you know this?) is it common that the wire would be the limiting source? I would think from a permitting standpoint you would be required to have a breaker be the limiting factor and not the wire but maybe that isn't true? So basically, assuming I changed the breaker at the main breaker box, is it common/likely the wire could be rated for only 50A?
No idea on my main. Here are 2 photos of it, if is shows that info somewhere?
Can you clarify why it isn't the only reason to get the WC?
Having no weak link (a plug) is the best reason to have a WC. Look at all the failures, they are almost always the plug. No Ground Fault breaker needed (required for an outlet). Ground Fault breakers can false trip. WC is more robust/weather proof. WC looks tidier with chord and handle storage. WC can share a circuit should you need to in the future. Gen 2 nice longer cord (which is why I just installed another Gen 2 I bought off eBay new). Charge cord can be replaced on WC.
And if you factor in the expense of Level 2 Ground Fault the cost of WC is close to cost of a UMC, Outlet, Ground Fault Breaker and 50A Adapter.
I also think it’s best to keep your “MOBILE” connector, mobile (as in your car where it belongs for emergency light use).
mrau
Authorized Driver
Looks like the highest you should go is 30 amp. Even though you have a 60 amp sub panel, the wires going to sub panel from the main have only a 50 amp breaker. In theory the 50 amp breaker will trip long before the 60 amp breaker in your sub panel ever does. So I would just think of your detached garage as 50 amp panel.
30 amp will give you a decent charge rate of about 22 miles added per hour, and not over burden your electrical system.
Get the Wall Connector if you want one. Another option is to install 14-30/10-30 outlet and get a second UMC (Less than $300 on eBay/forum) and leave that attached in you garage. Either way you can always have your original UMC in the car and with you.
.
30 amp will give you a decent charge rate of about 22 miles added per hour, and not over burden your electrical system.
Get the Wall Connector if you want one. Another option is to install 14-30/10-30 outlet and get a second UMC (Less than $300 on eBay/forum) and leave that attached in you garage. Either way you can always have your original UMC in the car and with you.
Similar threads
