The diagnosis that was passed on to me was 'front driveline failure' and that it needed to be replaced. I'm guessing that is the drive unit.
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
The diagnosis that was passed on to me was 'front driveline failure' and that it needed to be replaced. I'm guessing that is the drive unit.
I encountered this yesterday as well. Stop and go traffic and sudden death of my Model S.
I had to push it out of the way of other traffic.
It will be transported to Tilburg (NL) tomorrow to be fixed.
I tried a Jumper and an hour on a 12V charger, but that didn’t work.
My 12V was replaced just a few months ago.
I had to push it out of the way of other traffic.
It will be transported to Tilburg (NL) tomorrow to be fixed.
I tried a Jumper and an hour on a 12V charger, but that didn’t work.
My 12V was replaced just a few months ago.
Yes, I will. My car should have arrived at Tesla in Tilburg yesterday, but we had some snow which disrupted traffic a bit.
It will probably arrive today. Should have a update within a few days. I also suspect it wasn’t the 12V.
However, when the car was hooked up to a 12V charger it would stay alive, but if I disconnected it the car shut down within a few minutes.
Tesla received my car this morning and I just got a e-mail (Dutch) stating that it's not the 12V battery but the HV/main pack which failed and needs to be replaced.
My HV pack was replaced about 100.000km ago (~2 years) when the main contactor failed.
Tesla hasn't given me much other information, but it's not the 12V battery it seems. That was just a false positive.
To help search engines a bit, these were the messages I got:
- "Battery Power Too Low" / "Charge Battery"
- "12V Power Low" / "Car May Shut Down Unexpectedly"
Last edited:
FloridaGary
Member
It sounds like the 12v battery was also affected. For those of us who experienced earlier failure of the 12v battery (mine in first 4 months of ownership) I was told our 12 v would last 1 to 1-1/2 years before needing another replacement. I am at 20 months with my current 12v battery and no issues so far.
The 12 V battery is affected by any fault in the HV system that causes the pack to open the contactors. This is because it depends on the HV system for top ups.
Yes, probably.
Tesla contacted me again and told me that they will replace/fix the main pack under warranty.
My Model S is from September 2013 (4,5 years now) and has 196.000km (~110.000m) on it. I should have my S back before the weekend.
When it's fixed I'll post all the parts which were replaced, but for now I can kind of conclude it wasn't the 12V battery. I checked, that one was replaced in May 2017.
Well, you are right. I picked up my car yesterday with a new 85kWh (D-revision) pack.
They just swapped the whole HV pack and that's it. Don't know what the exact root-cause was.
The 12V was a red herring in my case. Everything was replaced under warranty.
FloridaGary
Member
Glad to hear all is good and you have your car back. Happy Holidays!
Happened to me, last night:
"Car Needs Service - Car May Not Restart", on the way to a destination where I was meeting my spouse. Having another option home, I took the risk.
Upon departure,
Car Needs Service - Unable to Start Car
12V Power Low - Car May Shut Down Unexpectedly
Performing System Check - Please Wait
We went home and brought back cables. I assumed it was the 12V. Nose cone off, jump didn't work. The car refused to leave 'P'. I called Tech. They were able to see ~14v coming from the donor car. They also saw the above alerts, encouraged a tow, and discouraged jump starting. Roadside eventually stated it wasn't a 12v issue on the phone. It's an issue of getting a charge to the 12v battery (what I think someone else called 'isolation' mode?). At that point, I knew I wasn't driving the 2015 home.
I was happier thinking it was the 12v battery. Haven't heard from them, yet.
"Car Needs Service - Car May Not Restart", on the way to a destination where I was meeting my spouse. Having another option home, I took the risk.
Upon departure,
Car Needs Service - Unable to Start Car
12V Power Low - Car May Shut Down Unexpectedly
Performing System Check - Please Wait
We went home and brought back cables. I assumed it was the 12V. Nose cone off, jump didn't work. The car refused to leave 'P'. I called Tech. They were able to see ~14v coming from the donor car. They also saw the above alerts, encouraged a tow, and discouraged jump starting. Roadside eventually stated it wasn't a 12v issue on the phone. It's an issue of getting a charge to the 12v battery (what I think someone else called 'isolation' mode?). At that point, I knew I wasn't driving the 2015 home.
I was happier thinking it was the 12v battery. Haven't heard from them, yet.
How many miles?
“Performing system check” usually means there is (or was) a fault with HV. You should hear clicking noises coming from underneath the vehicle. If it doesn’t clear, then there is likely a problem with the battery (or something else in the HV system). 12v is unlikely the cause.
“Performing system check” usually means there is (or was) a fault with HV. You should hear clicking noises coming from underneath the vehicle. If it doesn’t clear, then there is likely a problem with the battery (or something else in the HV system). 12v is unlikely the cause.
33K, but I'm vicariously thinking "what if" >50k. Only update on trouble-shooting has been "possibly rear drive unit, maybe not battery". I asked about harness, and they said a drive unit replacement would come with a new one. -This is preliminary. I wasn't going to post, but noticed your input while wading through half-shaft repairs and other billed items, related to drive units. In short, I plan on skipping the ESA when the time comes, and then maybe also gaining deeper access. Until then, I'll hear about what they find and keep wondering "what if".
mspohr
Well-Known Member
Not "drivetrain", just the drive unit and battery. People are reporting >$3k half-shaft repairs, $900 shafts, etc., after the initial 50k mile, or 4yr (whichever first) full drivetrain warranty.
mspohr
Well-Known Member
Parts:
1002633-01-R P-train, sport, mech, complete (Rear drive unit)
1022562-10-B, 1004430-01-N, 1050805-10-D -Harnesses for front/rear units, plus one for battery (I think)
Warranty - all of it covered as part of initial 4yr/50k. They also did a new 12V.
I asked, and was told: At >50k miles/4yr, the drive unit warranty should extend to each of the three harnesses. I'm not talking about an ESA. This is as part of the drive unit extension (I believe for life, for all but old 60's). These harnesses cost $300-400ea, or close to that. So, not bad relative to a $9k drive unit, even if one had to buy them. I brought up "$900 half shafts aren't covered after 50k, but harnesses are?", and this was at least verbally confirmed.
I asked "what could have caused this", and was told "water" got somewhere. Car has never been anywhere near any flood, and as the only driver, never more than the occasional ~2" puddle, FWIW.
I was a little bummed, about one thing. After 6+ months of rejecting updates to preserve my old AP1 version, I was told the new rear drive unit firmware required an update. So, now AP1 50.2 is governing Auto-steer down to Massachusetts' artificially low speed limits (like my wife's AP1 car) on non-highways, and the "1-7" follow distances on the stalk translate to ~3-5, and I'm consequently being cut off more. Not a huge deal, but among the reasons "updates" make me nervous.
1002633-01-R P-train, sport, mech, complete (Rear drive unit)
1022562-10-B, 1004430-01-N, 1050805-10-D -Harnesses for front/rear units, plus one for battery (I think)
Warranty - all of it covered as part of initial 4yr/50k. They also did a new 12V.
I asked, and was told: At >50k miles/4yr, the drive unit warranty should extend to each of the three harnesses. I'm not talking about an ESA. This is as part of the drive unit extension (I believe for life, for all but old 60's). These harnesses cost $300-400ea, or close to that. So, not bad relative to a $9k drive unit, even if one had to buy them. I brought up "$900 half shafts aren't covered after 50k, but harnesses are?", and this was at least verbally confirmed.
I asked "what could have caused this", and was told "water" got somewhere. Car has never been anywhere near any flood, and as the only driver, never more than the occasional ~2" puddle, FWIW.
I was a little bummed, about one thing. After 6+ months of rejecting updates to preserve my old AP1 version, I was told the new rear drive unit firmware required an update. So, now AP1 50.2 is governing Auto-steer down to Massachusetts' artificially low speed limits (like my wife's AP1 car) on non-highways, and the "1-7" follow distances on the stalk translate to ~3-5, and I'm consequently being cut off more. Not a huge deal, but among the reasons "updates" make me nervous.
I figure I'll chime in with my "immediate and fatal 12v battery failure" story on my S100D. On 12/31 I was driving all around, picking up things and getting ready for the NYE party we were throwing. It had been very cold out the previous week or two (single digits fahrenheit), and was forecast to go down to the negative numbers that night, so when I saw my car go offline later that night I figured it was just going into a "deep sleep" due to the cold or something. The next day we recovered from the party and didn't drive anywhere, and the day after that had snow, so I didn't go anywhere. When I finally cleaned off my car and went to open it, it didn't respond at all the the key fob, the app - nothing.
Called Tesla and they said the last message they had received from the car was "12v battery voltage low", despite no messages ever appearing in the IC. They towed it to the SC and spent *two weeks* looking at it, and finally found "several e-fuse screws not torqued to spec". They didn't tell me what else they'd tried (I hope they tried other things, and it wasn't just sitting there waiting for them to look at it!), but it appears as if it was another type of HV failure leading to it. Just glad it didn't leave me stranded!
Called Tesla and they said the last message they had received from the car was "12v battery voltage low", despite no messages ever appearing in the IC. They towed it to the SC and spent *two weeks* looking at it, and finally found "several e-fuse screws not torqued to spec". They didn't tell me what else they'd tried (I hope they tried other things, and it wasn't just sitting there waiting for them to look at it!), but it appears as if it was another type of HV failure leading to it. Just glad it didn't leave me stranded!
What!? They measured 500 V on the battery contacts of a 350 V pack? How is this possible?
