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Improved Trunk lighting - Is there demand?

would you be interested in high-quality, brighter interior plug-n-play lights?

  • Yes - would buy a full set (trunk, Frunk, puddle lights and footwells)

    Votes: 143 46.3%
  • Yes, would start with a few to replace the weedy lights in the trunk

    Votes: 133 43.0%
  • Not sure - would wait for other reviews

    Votes: 20 6.5%
  • Nope, I'm good with the ones in the Model S

    Votes: 13 4.2%

  • Total voters
    309
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Hey Pete

Question

I have a 2013 and i noticed after drive in a 2014 that the lighting is different in these two models

My 2013 has three lights in the back, one on the hatch and two on the sides
My tesla rental 2014 has only one in the hatch

Just thought I would mention it, you may already know and I could be the only guy on the planet to have just found this out
but I miss my 2013 after a Costco run.

with that I would need three in the kit for a 2013

How is the project coming along

pictures look great
 
I have a 2013 and i noticed after drive in a 2014 that the lighting is different in these two models

My 2013 has three lights in the back, one on the hatch and two on the sides
My tesla rental 2014 has only one in the hatch

Jim, your loaner didn't have the premium lighting upgrade and that is why it only had one light in the trunk (on the hatch itself). Regardless, all Teslas have the wiring and cutouts for the three lights and Pete's kit accounts for that.
 
Jim, your loaner didn't have the premium lighting upgrade and that is why it only had one light in the trunk (on the hatch itself). Regardless, all Teslas have the wiring and cutouts for the three lights and Pete's kit accounts for that.

Thanks. With all the configurations of premium lighting and tech package over the past few years, I suspect there's a few variations, but as far as I can tell, in every case, there wiring is always there, even if the bulb is not, and since they are all triggered 'as one' by either the hatch opening, or doors opening, it's not a software-driven dependency, so just popping out the cut-outs and plugging into the existing wiring harness should do the trick. I think the wires, for the truck at least, are generally taped to the body work by the punch-outs, so they're within a fingers' reach. As I get feedback I'll refine the directions to hopefully cover all scenarios.
 
Thanks. With all the configurations of premium lighting and tech package over the past few years, I suspect there's a few variations, but as far as I can tell, in every case, there wiring is always there, even if the bulb is not, and since they are all triggered 'as one' by either the hatch opening, or doors opening, it's not a software-driven dependency, so just popping out the cut-outs and plugging into the existing wiring harness should do the trick. I think the wires, for the truck at least, are generally taped to the body work by the punch-outs, so they're within a fingers' reach. As I get feedback I'll refine the directions to hopefully cover all scenarios.

I am sure this won't matter with your bulbs, but note that the circuit will be shut after 90 seconds if too much power is being drawn. Artsci found that out before, but just cut back on the number of LED strips he had connected and all was well. With my current set with the three Tesla bulbs and two 20" LED 5050 strips does just fine and it runs continuously without issue until the trunk light timeout kicks in.

Btw, I will still be getting your lights even with my strips. In particular, the frunk and foot wells in my car need some improvement.
 
The connectors for the extra trunk lights on either side are taped to the larger harness, so you usually have to pull the carpet back enough to gain access.

The reason the lights shut off in 90 seconds, is the MOSFET that drives the circuit will overheat and there is a thermal cutoff circuit to prevent the MOSFET from being damaged. Since this is dependent on heat, the time varies.