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Improved Trunk lighting - Is there demand?

would you be interested in high-quality, brighter interior plug-n-play lights?

  • Yes - would buy a full set (trunk, Frunk, puddle lights and footwells)

    Votes: 143 46.3%
  • Yes, would start with a few to replace the weedy lights in the trunk

    Votes: 133 43.0%
  • Not sure - would wait for other reviews

    Votes: 20 6.5%
  • Nope, I'm good with the ones in the Model S

    Votes: 13 4.2%

  • Total voters
    309
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Tesla use a cable tie (strips) between the led lock to make it tight where they have made the cut to large.
The tie need to be innstaled from behind and make it quite tight.

I did exactly this. It works fine but I guess I am being a little picky. The light can wiggle a little for the ones in the carpet cutouts if you push on them. The ones in the plastic (Frunk and trunk lid) are extremely tight. I guess I was thinking that a plastic shim behind the carpet would be helpful for the light to grab onto. Besides - Elon likes to use shims as a solution for other issues so why not this one.
 
Pete,

I didn't want to review the entire thread to see if you had commented on this, but have you talked to Tesla about becoming their supplier of LED lights. Yours are so much better than the OEMs that there is no comparison.

They don't really engage with external/3rd-party accessory makers. It's not for lack of trying, I had a reasonable dialog with Simon Sproule, then he left for Aston Martin. The alternate contact provided doesn't respond to emails.
 
It is also a loong process to include something new in the production Vehicle, years with testing and to be verified as a auto suppliers of large scale.
The parts need propper certifications for US and EU market, exspensive to get, ned to be tested for disturbance on the 12v system......

Price is also importan, if Tesla save $10 on interior lights on 50 000 cars it is $500 000.
You also have to be able to deliver 250 000 - 750 000 leds a year with a steady flow to Tesla, so their stock is keept as low as possible without the risk of running out.
(It is from 6-15 leds in each car.)
If you can produce the leds in US close to factory I guess that can be a advantage, still takes years to get propper certifications.
 
I installed my last four lights tonight--the rear door puddle lights and the rear foot wells.

Some notes concerning the rear foot wells...

First of all, with Next Gen seats, moving the seat to the highest position and then angling the seat back forward will result in the top of the headrest hitting the ceiling of the car, and also moving forward into the visor if it is folded forward. I noticed it as it was happening, but I'm not sure what might have happened if I hadn't, so be careful.

Also, perhaps this was obvious to some of you from other aspects of the instructions, but it most definitely was not to me. Once you have the bracket and light off the support bar, you should disconnect the electrical connector, which will allow you to then work on the hard part--getting the bulb out--anywhere you want to. I didn't figure this out when working on the passenger side light, and there was enough slack in the electric wire for me to be able to work semi-comfortably. But when I got to the driver's side, there was a lot less slack in the wire, and there was no way I would have been able to get the bulb out if I had kept working on it in that location. It was only then that I thought to unsnap the connector, and take the entire unit out of the car.

You may want to add that as a suggestion in your instructions, Pete, as it makes the removal of those two bulbs a heck of a lot easier.

I've now replaced all twelve bulbs, and the new lights look great! Thanks again, Pete!
 
I installed my last four lights tonight--the rear door puddle lights and the rear foot wells.

Some notes concerning the rear foot wells...

First of all, with Next Gen seats, moving the seat to the highest position and then angling the seat back forward will result in the top of the headrest hitting the ceiling of the car, and also moving forward into the visor if it is folded forward. I noticed it as it was happening, but I'm not sure what might have happened if I hadn't, so be careful.

Also, perhaps this was obvious to some of you from other aspects of the instructions, but it most definitely was not to me. Once you have the bracket and light off the support bar, you should disconnect the electrical connector, which will allow you to then work on the hard part--getting the bulb out--anywhere you want to. I didn't figure this out when working on the passenger side light, and there was enough slack in the electric wire for me to be able to work semi-comfortably. But when I got to the driver's side, there was a lot less slack in the wire, and there was no way I would have been able to get the bulb out if I had kept working on it in that location. It was only then that I thought to unsnap the connector, and take the entire unit out of the car.

You may want to add that as a suggestion in your instructions, Pete, as it makes the removal of those two bulbs a heck of a lot easier.

I've now replaced all twelve bulbs, and the new lights look great! Thanks again, Pete!

Made the updates - thanks!
 
If you really wanted the red lights brighter, you could simply re-use Tesla's red lens. Just unsnap Pete's black back part with the LED's and snap into the original red lens.

This was a very good suggestion, so I replaced all -4- of my red warning lights.
It was very easy to change the clear lens on the AO lights, to the stock red lens.
Now, you can't help but see the little buggers!
 
Great idea! I just posted to Pete about purchasing just one single unit, for the glove box, now it looks like I will need Five Units!!

Up Date:
So far, I will have replaced -16- of the original OEM units, to the AO units.
-1- frunk
-3- in trunk
-4- foot well
-4- puddle lights
-4- red caution lights
Unbelievable difference in the amount of lumens! As they say, once you see the difference, you are committed to wanting the best.
The only Tesla unit I haven't changed, will be the glove box light.
Once things settle down and Pete offers single units, that dim looking puppy will be finding a new home as well.
I whole heartedly recommend Abstract Ocean's license plate LED bulb replacements AND the new interior lighting units.
Now my baby just glows like the Tech Wonder she is.

I do have a question for crowd, does any one know where to purchase a -2- pin "Y" or a "Tee", connector so as to tie into the stock -2- pin Tesla wiring in the trunk?
(-1- male to -2- female)
Since installing these new units in my trunk I no longer have a power supply for my LED strip lighting in my trunk and I don't really like the add-a-tap method
I am also looking for a male -2- pin connecter plug, so as to attach power for my Dash Cam

(Wasn't able to do an edit so I replied to my own post)
 
Last edited:
I put mine in today and they look great. The trunk hatch bulb popped out easily with the spudger - literally less than a minute to change that one. I removed the plastic trim to get at the one on the right side of the trunk, which worked OK, but I broke the two white push-in clips putting it back in - I'd recommend just pulling the carpet back as in the instructions. Anyone know where I can get replacement clips? I put the trim back without them, and it's staying in and looks fine, but I'm thinking it might rattle. For the left side of the trunk, I pulled the carpet back and found the connector right next to the bulb hole, not over by the charge port as in the instructions.

The frunk was the hardest - it's easy to get behind it, but I had to break off two tabs from the old bulb to get it out. The puddle lights and front passenger footwell were very easy, and the driver footwell wasn't too hard but needed a screwdriver to pry it out.

As soon as the brackets are in, I'll be ordering 4 more for the rear footwells and rear puddle lights.
 
I put mine in today and they look great. The trunk hatch bulb popped out easily with the spudger - literally less than a minute to change that one. I removed the plastic trim to get at the one on the right side of the trunk, which worked OK, but I broke the two white push-in clips putting it back in - I'd recommend just pulling the carpet back as in the instructions. Anyone know where I can get replacement clips? I put the trim back without them, and it's staying in and looks fine, but I'm thinking it might rattle. For the left side of the trunk, I pulled the carpet back and found the connector right next to the bulb hole, not over by the charge port as in the instructions.

The frunk was the hardest - it's easy to get behind it, but I had to break off two tabs from the old bulb to get it out. The puddle lights and front passenger footwell were very easy, and the driver footwell wasn't too hard but needed a screwdriver to pry it out.

As soon as the brackets are in, I'll be ordering 4 more for the rear footwells and rear puddle lights.

Brackets should be waiting for me when I get back to Texas late tomorrow....the reason I've not listed them yet is that I don't have a price, but it won't be much at all.

For the clips, I don't have a picture in my mind of exactly what they look like, but any of the car stores will carry them, Amazon seems to have a selection too. If you're near a SC, I'm sure they'll give you a handful too.
 
389575c003a5e5fee7c9e1184c061de1.jpg


Hi all,

Sorry for the slightly off topic post. While I was installing my trunk right side light I came across this connector. I'm curious if anyone knows what this one is for.

The new lights look amazing. Even just the single Center one in the trunk makes a world of difference!