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Improved Trunk lighting - Is there demand?

would you be interested in high-quality, brighter interior plug-n-play lights?

  • Yes - would buy a full set (trunk, Frunk, puddle lights and footwells)

    Votes: 143 46.3%
  • Yes, would start with a few to replace the weedy lights in the trunk

    Votes: 133 43.0%
  • Not sure - would wait for other reviews

    Votes: 20 6.5%
  • Nope, I'm good with the ones in the Model S

    Votes: 13 4.2%

  • Total voters
    309
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Does any one know where to purchase a -2- pin "Y" / "Tee", connector to tie into the stock -2- pin Tesla wiring in the trunk?
(-1- male to -2- female)? Since installing Pete's new units in my trunk I no longer have a power supply for previously installed LED strip lights.

sigurdi mentioned he was going to make some for sale and post in a separate thread. Send a PM to light a fire under him! :smile:
 
Confirmed we'll be manufacturing some red-lens versions, ETA is either mid/late January, or late February, depending on which production run they make.

I wasn't originally going to change my red warning lights, but since my son's comment partially caused these lights to be made, I'm in for a set. :) Thanks for being responsive to customer demand!

(Waiting on delivery of another set of white lights plus rear footwell brackets. USPS seems to be overloaded in our area...I had a different, unrelated package take over a week to go between two post offices ~10 miles apart.)

Update: Got 'em. E started installing the lights in the rear footwell brackets and was trying to put the brackets under the seats without really understanding how they were supposed to clip on, or waiting for me to find either a forum post or a picture. Eventually he said "I hate this, I'm going to go get a snack", and left me to deal with them. They look great, except now I need to do a better job of keeping the back seat clean. So for the cost of two footwell brackets plus four lights, my car has the equivalent of most of the premium interior lighting package (as it existed when my 85D was configured). And the lights are good lights, not wimpy lights. What a deal!
 
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I am away at work until the 5 of January, at work X-mas and New Year this year. :-(

Send me a PM and I will do some production run on Y splitts as soon as I get home.
I guess I can make them faster then regular cables since my regular cables have two splits. (I use 4 LEDs on the Trunk kit)

As a X-mas price the first few can get two Y adapter ink. shipping to US for $25-30.
Have to weight it to se if the shipping is $5 or $10.

It is original plugg all the way so tell me if you would like a SM plug on the ekstra end or no plug at all, instead of two of the male housing/female plugs.
($5 off with one end with no plugs)

The plugs is in some way hard to decide if it is female or male.
The pinns on the cabling in the car is female, but the housing is male since it goes inside the housing on the led.
The plugs on the female hausing (like the one on the leds) have square male pinns.
 
Pete,
I got the rear footwell brackets tonight. Thanks for the quick shipping. The install went pretty easily. For me (March 2015 85D w/o premium lighting), the LED power cable was wrapped around the large bundle cable and zip tied around the large bundle to the bottom of the front seat (zip tie is holding the large bundle cable to the bottom of the seat to keep it out of the way). I just had to cut the zip tie, get the LED power cable loose, and then re-zip tie the large bundle cable back to the seat (to keep it out of the way). Then it was simple to run the LED power cable through the light bracket, attach the LED to the power cable, attach LED to the bracket, and then install the bracket to the bar. it looks like the bracket can only really go one place on the bar (interference from the bar mounts drive you to one place).

The lights in the rear footwells look pretty cool.

Nice work Pete!

- C
 
I have managed to add/replace the lights in my trunk/frunk.

However, after prying out the driver/passenger footwell lights with a screwdriver (they were very tight), I found that their cables are so short that I can't actually pull the light out far enough to press the locking clip for disconnecting the cable. Anyone had the same issue?
 
I have managed to add/replace the lights in my trunk/frunk.

However, after prying out the driver/passenger footwell lights with a screwdriver (they were very tight), I found that their cables are so short that I can't actually pull the light out far enough to press the locking clip for disconnecting the cable. Anyone had the same issue?
Take out two Torx T-20 screws and the whole panel will drop down so you can get to the back.
 
Thanks, will give that a shot. Is it the same on both driver and passenger side?

The panels are different, but both come out the same way. On the left panel one screw is near the left near the front and the other is middle far right. On the right panel one is middle left and the other middle right. They are black screws, so might need some looking with a good light.
 
The panels are different, but both come out the same way. On the left panel one screw is near the left near the front and the other is middle far right. On the right panel one is middle left and the other middle right. They are black screws, so might need some looking with a good light.

Hmm I couldn't find any screws down there. These panels seems to be held in place by 2 blue plastic clips. I took a photo of the passenger side panel. Am I looking in the wrong place?

iyvOdl9.jpg
 
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Yes, that's a totally different panel than we have here in the US. Not only are you right hand drive, but apparently you lack the knee airbags too. I cant see the right/left ends of the panel where the screws would be in any event. Looks like the reason your wire is short, is that it's caught in one of the heater vents. See if you can pull it free.
 
Yes, that's a totally different panel than we have here in the US. Not only are you right hand drive, but apparently you lack the knee airbags too. I cant see the right/left ends of the panel where the screws would be in any event. Looks like the reason your wire is short, is that it's caught in one of the heater vents. See if you can pull it free.

I tried pulling that wire, but only the plug/light end can wiggle a bit. The other end doesn't move at all. It seems to be attached to something further inside the opening.
 
On passenger side you need to remove the side convers to the center console and the screw is behind it.
If I remember right the other one can be replaced by the clip.
You can put the plunger between the plastic cover and open to free the cable that is just stuck between.
 
On passenger side you need to remove the side convers to the center console and the screw is behind it.
If I remember right the other one can be replaced by the clip.
You can put the plunger between the plastic cover and open to free the cable that is just stuck between.

I don't think the wire is stuck between the plastic panel and the opening, because there is some gap between the plastic and the wire, and I can feel the wire with my finger. It appears to be attached or stuck to the metal frame inside the plastic panel.

What did you mean by "replaced by the clip"? Did you mean the panel is attached to the car with blue trim clips only and no screw? I broke some of those blue clips before when I installed the rear dashcam, and one of them became permanently stuck on the hatch because it broke near the base and there's nothing to hold on to to pull it out. I'm not sure if I want to deal with these blue clips again, especially in a confined space such as the footwells.
 
Picture showing how to remove the puddle light lens


Hard to take picture and hold two screw drivers!

- - - Updated - - -

@Eslee, removing the clear lens AND also removing the red lens is a study in why we shouldn't have small children around while doing this.
They pick up some of the strangest vocabulary,,,, Tsk, Tsk Tsk.
Anyway, the easiest way that I found was to hold the unit bottom side up, in a vice. Supported on the lens' edges in a folded shop towel.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN VISE!
Using two small screw drivers, start the with the 'tab' on the right end, working your way down into the lens, you will see the black plastic light socket come away from the lens. Do this on the right end, then the opposite side. Slowly lifting the light base, up from the lens. The trick is to keep the light from slipping back into the lens as you work each side free. Should take about three minuets and yes, you can reward yourself with a stiff eggnog.

The top black screw driver, releases the side latch (alternate from the top to the bottom latch)
Rotate the right silver screwdriver, against the 'tab', to lift the light up and out of the lens
 

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Intalling back door puddle lights

This is fantastic information - thank you! I do not have premium lighting on my March build 85D but am really interested in retrofitting the rear puddle lights (why? I'm not quite sure. :smile:) I see an indentation for where the light should be on the bottom of the door panel but am curious if there's any scoring on the inside once in the panel is removed? Of course, I can just measure the opening from the front puddle lights but this would make things a bit easier.

Has anyone else tried retrofitting the rear puddles without premium lighting?

As mentioned, you can remove the back door panels completely but I found it easier to just "pop" the bottom edge of the panel away from the door.
In the picture (s), you can see where the bottom puddle light's plug, is taped to the wire feeding the red caution light.
Using a spud tool, pop open the door panel along the bottom edge. Look for the power lead, to the red caution light. Un-tape the lead for the bottom puddle light and 'fish' it out of the bottom of the door panel.

On the bottom of the door panel is a indented area where the bottom puddle light goes.
CAREFULLY, using an exacto knife, cut out the rectangular section of paneling.
Pull the new power plug out of the new opening and install the plug into your new light.

Please remember the power to the new light will have timed off by now, so it will not light up right away, you will have to cycle the timer by closing all doors and re-open the door you are working on.
 

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