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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

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Finally found a place to get some valid Dragy runs. There are hills everywhere around here, so finding a flat road that doesn't have many cars can be challenging.

This was my best run of 6 with my 2023 RWD w/ 60 kWh LFP battery and Boost LFP at around 80% SOC (w/ 50 lbs of child car seats 😄). Seems like it takes the car from 5.8 seconds (according to Tesla... didn't actually test with Dragy before installing Boost) to 5.1 seconds consistently, but with a very slight decline I can get 5.0. I bet I can eke out just under 5 with the right conditions. Paltry numbers compared to LR and P, I know, but I'm still impressed that it pretty much matches a Model Y AWD (standard range dual motor) and the old Model 3 LR RWD.

Ever since Tesla switched the base model SR+ from NCA to LFP and increased the 0-60 from 5.3 to 5.8 seconds, a lot of people were saying it's because the LFP batteries can't handle as much power. Well, it seems like they can handle it just fine, so I think it was more of a marketing decision, or Tesla just deciding not to increase the software limited power output of the motor to offset the additional weight of the larger LFP battery.

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I'm still impressed that it pretty much matches a Model Y AWD (standard range dual motor) and the old Model 3 LR RWD.

Since what it's doing is telling the car it IS a Model 3 LR RWD I'd be surprised if you did NOT get that result :)


Ever since Tesla switched the base model SR+ from NCA to LFP and increased the 0-60 from 5.3 to 5.8 seconds, a lot of people were saying it's because the LFP batteries can't handle as much power. Well, it seems like they can handle it just fine, so I think it was more of a marketing decision, or Tesla just deciding not to increase the software limited power output of the motor to offset the additional weight of the larger LFP battery.


Could also be they found some significant hit to durability of one or more items discharging the LFPs that way and didn't wish to risk increased warranty expense from it.
 
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Since what it's doing is telling the car it IS a Model 3 LR RWD I'd be surprised if you did NOT get that result :)

Yeah, I predicted a while back that it should be able to match the LR RWD, but theories don't always translate to reality, and no one knew if the LFP batteries could handle the rear motor pulling 239+ kW.

Could also be they found some significant hit to durability of one or more items discharging the LFPs that way and didn't wish to risk increased warranty expense from it.

I thought about that too, but I'm willing to risk it. Tesla actually shipped some LFP models with 5.3 second 0-60 before they adjusted them to 5.8 seconds, and I haven't seen any of those owners posting about issues. Also, the amount of time the car pulls more current than stock max current on a 0-60 run isn't long. The way I understand it, electronic components are usually rated for a certain amount of current based on their ability to handle the heat generated by that amount of current indefinitely, but if you look at Model 3 SR+ dyno charts, adding a Boost module only increases the power / current above stock max power from about 4500-9000 rpm, or about 35-70 mph. So for the first half of a 0-60 run, the battery isn't outputting more power than it already could stock. So you have about 2.5 seconds in a 0-60 run where the battery is outputting only up to 18% more max power / current than stock, but I doubt that's long enough to heat things up enough to cause damage. My battery was 33.8 C max before I left my house, and immediately after my 0-60 runs, it was actually cooler than before the runs (32.8 C), so it seems like the BMS is doing a good job keeping the battery cool. It might be more of a concern if you planned on tracking the car and pushing it hard for long periods, but I only bought the Boost for a little extra oomph at red lights and on backroads on occasion and don't plan to track it.

In any case, I'll post updates here in the future if I ever notice higher than normal degradation or something.
 
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I wonder if the “throttle” mapping is the same as the performance.

This device LITERALLY just tells the car it's a P instead of an LR- since they are physically the same car and the only difference is what the config is listed as in the computer.

That's it.

That's why the only versions of their product that exist are to mimic other existing versions of the same car from Tesla- that's the only thing they can "change"
(and also why they offer no performance product for the P-- there's no "better" standard config to lie to the car about being)
 
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I gotta be honest and say I've always been a bit envious of that extra power the M3P owners have and at the time it just didn't work out for me to purchase an M3P when I bought my M3 but lucky for me my 2018 LRAWD has the 908 motor!. :) . I always knew the ghost was an option but it would have to be a ways down the road before I could justify spending that much for it so instead I've always just kept my eye out in the FS section hoping maybe one day someone might part with theirs as they were moving onto something new. That day finally came yesterday!. A deal to good to pass up!. No more envy when I see that underlined Dual Motor or hear someone in the FB Groups talk about loving their M3P. ;) The seller should be reaching out to Ingenext to have it reset for me first thing tomorrow and then it'll get shipped to me. Can't wait to be upside down in my passenger seat installing that bad boy. :)