Will be sure to post impressions. My SR+ was manufactured in 02/20.
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Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]
- Thread starter JPELKA
- Start date
alstoralset
Man from another place
I was on the fence about Ghost (Oct 2018 M3 AWD) but abruptly fell off the fence. Discovered when changing the tires that I had a 990 motor. 
Do I have the only 2018 990 in the world? Still working through the Kubler-Ross stages of grief.
Do I have the only 2018 990 in the world? Still working through the Kubler-Ross stages of grief.
My suggestion is to push the passenger seat all the way back and recline the seat back. You might need to be inverted to see under the glovebox. Bring a flashlight and headlight flashlight to work in the footwell. Another suggestion is to remove the kick trim in the corner of you need more room. It is tight no doubt but with some effort it’s not that bad.
also for the naysayers who think Tesla communicates with the mothership on your performance, du, and whatnot....I just had my chargeport door replaced today and nothing happened. the suggestion is to remove when you physically have to bring the car in. If it’s a mobile tech repair they don’t care.
Knightshade
Well-Known Member
That your car talks to Teslas servers isn't a "think" it's a fact you can observe for yourself with a network sniffer.
The vendor was already caught once being...less than factual... about Tesla being "unable" to detect it after all.
The debate is over to what degree they care about the mod, and to what degree is it likely they will hassle you over warranty work they could reasonably connect to the mod. (I don't see how one could blame a chargeport door problem on the mod so that wouldn't be relevant either way here).
I was on the fence about Ghost (Oct 2018 M3 AWD) but abruptly fell off the fence. Discovered when changing the tires that I had a 990 motor.
Do I have the only 2018 990 in the world? Still working through the Kubler-Ross stages of grief.
Oct-18 here as well. I hadn't checked previously but your post made me go look. 980 for me.
I’m pointing out the fact that if you request for service no matter how minor or major if there is a mobile tech the car will not be flagged and I am giving my own personal experiences on the matter and I have not removed the module. Others who have installed it that has not had a service appointment yet can remove it at their discretion but in my case: charge door replacement, 12V battery replacement, door hinge replacement have not been an issue. Take it as you will.
You do not know "the car will not be flagged". You know "your car was not flagged that time", but you seem determined to try to paint this as "they will never" instead of the correct information which is "they didnt this time, but they could next time".
Ok I will be extremely more clear to the community. With my 3 service appointments MY car was not flagged at that point in time nor do I know if it is flagged but yet they agreed to service my car at no cost to date. Take it as you will.
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Knightshade
Well-Known Member
Unless you have behind the scenes access to Teslas systems, you've no idea if it's flagged or not. You only know they haven't said anything to you about it.
Why would they be an issue?
Modding your car can't "void your warranty" generally.
They just can refuse to fix anything they can show was caused by the mod
I don't see how a bad door hinge would've been blamable on this mod, so there'd have been no reason to even mention they noticed the mod to you.
But if you needed a DU replacement you might have a different conversation.
I would disagree on the fact that any electrical replacement in the car “could” be blamed on the modification ie 12V battery and chargeport door. Hinge I’ll give that one to you since there is no connection whatsoever but you are absolutely right on the fact that until someone that has this mod and needs a brand new DU...we won’t know how Tesla approaches it and to date...no one has reported needing a new DU because the software does not exceed factory specifications.
So all we can do is speculate until there is a failure.
I installed my SR boost a few days ago. Yes, the plug is quite hard to get into place. I scraped up the top side of my wrist against the plastic trim trying to get it in there. It's difficult not only because of the tight space but because the orientation of where you need to put your hand means you're completely blocking your sight to the plug so you basically need sort of try and orient it correctly and then just go for it blindly. I pushed the passenger seat all the way back and slightly reclined and sat upside down in the footwell with my feet by the seat headrest. Probably took me about 15 or 20 minutes to get it. I'm sure I could do it much faster now that I have done it once though.
The speed boost is quite noticeable, it feels really good. If you always wanted your SR/SR+ to be faster and you have the 980 motor, I recommend it. I recorded some data from Scan My Tesla before and after:
Peak R power/R torque:
Before: ~228 / ~265
After: ~252 / ~307
Not sure how valid these numbers are, they were from just "regular" driving, not ideal isolated 0-60 runs but I tried to floor it at least a couple times during each data capture run in an attempt to get peak values.
I didn't really play with any of the other options (proximity door, rear heated seats, etc.) because they're not that interesting to me. I just turned on the ambient lights which are exceedingly mediocre. Such a dumb thing for Tesla to software lock to try and differentiate the trims.
Here's hoping I haven't screwed over future me with any kind of warranty issues/"flagging".
The speed boost is quite noticeable, it feels really good. If you always wanted your SR/SR+ to be faster and you have the 980 motor, I recommend it. I recorded some data from Scan My Tesla before and after:
Peak R power/R torque:
Before: ~228 / ~265
After: ~252 / ~307
Not sure how valid these numbers are, they were from just "regular" driving, not ideal isolated 0-60 runs but I tried to floor it at least a couple times during each data capture run in an attempt to get peak values.
I didn't really play with any of the other options (proximity door, rear heated seats, etc.) because they're not that interesting to me. I just turned on the ambient lights which are exceedingly mediocre. Such a dumb thing for Tesla to software lock to try and differentiate the trims.
Here's hoping I haven't screwed over future me with any kind of warranty issues/"flagging".
Luudcrs
Member
Glad install worked out for you and that you're liking it. Give the proximity door a try for a week or so. I didn't think I'd like/need it either until I tried it. Now I just find it a nice convenience.
Also just a reminder...if you do use the proximity door sensors make sure to turn them “OFF” when you have a mobile tech come. I almost got caught when I had to unlock / open the car and the door automatically opened. He sorta did a double take but I was close enough to the car where it didn’t look that suspicious lol
I installed my SR boost a few days ago. Yes, the plug is quite hard to get into place. I scraped up the top side of my wrist against the plastic trim trying to get it in there. It's difficult not only because of the tight space but because the orientation of where you need to put your hand means you're completely blocking your sight to the plug so you basically need sort of try and orient it correctly and then just go for it blindly. I pushed the passenger seat all the way back and slightly reclined and sat upside down in the footwell with my feet by the seat headrest. Probably took me about 15 or 20 minutes to get it. I'm sure I could do it much faster now that I have done it once though.
The speed boost is quite noticeable, it feels really good. If you always wanted your SR/SR+ to be faster and you have the 980 motor, I recommend it. I recorded some data from Scan My Tesla before and after:
Peak R power/R torque:
Before: ~228 / ~265
After: ~252 / ~307
Not sure how valid these numbers are, they were from just "regular" driving, not ideal isolated 0-60 runs but I tried to floor it at least a couple times during each data capture run in an attempt to get peak values.
I didn't really play with any of the other options (proximity door, rear heated seats, etc.) because they're not that interesting to me. I just turned on the ambient lights which are exceedingly mediocre. Such a dumb thing for Tesla to software lock to try and differentiate the trims.
Here's hoping I haven't screwed over future me with any kind of warranty issues/"flagging".
This definitely intrigues me, although I think I'll wait a couple more years until my warranty is up. Would love to see dragy times if anyone has one.
I just received the Boost SR module today and installed it. This is a significant improvement performance wise. Tested the acceleration out and it's much more substantial than the stock SR+ (which isn't a slouch by any stretch). Didn't time it with a Draggy or anything, but 0-60 felt 4.5ish. The real story is how much more torquey acceleration feels. 30-60 feels much faster than stock, as in it will absolutely put your head back to the headrest in a much more forceful manner. The throttle is much more responsive. It reminded me of a similar acceleration experience I had when I test drive a LR AWD at a showroom before I ordered a Model 3.
Not really interested in the other features of the module, but I did activate the ambient lights (which is just footwell for me as the pocket lights were not included in my SR+).
Installation wasn't too bad. It's definitely best to remove the side panel to have better access to the MCU, which the instructions don't really mention. Use a tool to press down the release to make it easier to remove the plug.
Not really interested in the other features of the module, but I did activate the ambient lights (which is just footwell for me as the pocket lights were not included in my SR+).
Installation wasn't too bad. It's definitely best to remove the side panel to have better access to the MCU, which the instructions don't really mention. Use a tool to press down the release to make it easier to remove the plug.
Luudcrs
Member
Thanks for the tip. Luckily, I haven't had a need for a service call yet in 2.5 years of ownership...KOW.
Yes, I forgot to mention that. I have a little plastic spudger tool that I was using to remove the push pins on the panel that also came in handy for pushing the release on the clip to remove the cable from the MCU. Unfortunately the space is just too tight and full of other cables to make using a tool to put the module cable back into the MCU any easier.
Sorry for the extremely crude pics but for anyone attempting this install:
1. push passenger seat back all the way and recline seat back prior
2. you need to be inverted with a flashlight and/or remove lower kick panel if you need room.
3. remove the plug. This is easiest with a screwdriver or spudger if your hands are big. Basically use the tool mentioned to depress the tab and then yank out the plug itself by the cord. Don’t worry the wires are thick gauged. Red markup depicts tool.
4. To reinsert mod plug....my suggestion is to pre-bend the wire at 90 degrees. It’ll hold its shape. “Guide” the plug itself through the bird nest of wires. Align it right outside the port. Use one of the tools above to push the backside of the plug into the port and slide it in halfway. Then using force or swap out the tool for your hand / finger...push the plug entirely in.
This method is for people who have large hands and cannot fit it inside. Good luck.
1. push passenger seat back all the way and recline seat back prior
2. you need to be inverted with a flashlight and/or remove lower kick panel if you need room.
3. remove the plug. This is easiest with a screwdriver or spudger if your hands are big. Basically use the tool mentioned to depress the tab and then yank out the plug itself by the cord. Don’t worry the wires are thick gauged. Red markup depicts tool.
4. To reinsert mod plug....my suggestion is to pre-bend the wire at 90 degrees. It’ll hold its shape. “Guide” the plug itself through the bird nest of wires. Align it right outside the port. Use one of the tools above to push the backside of the plug into the port and slide it in halfway. Then using force or swap out the tool for your hand / finger...push the plug entirely in.
This method is for people who have large hands and cannot fit it inside. Good luck.
