Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

[alexiscool]

You talking degradation or actual charge?

If talking about battery charge: From bjorn nyland (cannot recall spelling) I believe each model year or iteration changes how they perform with charge. The chart he had showed 2019 had the least variation with lower charge.

There’s a significant drop off in max power for lower SoC for all cars in every model year, with the exception of probably the new Model S Plaid (according to a soundbite from Franz).

There’s a chart out there but it’s something like this:
90% SoC: 1% drop off
75% SoC: 5% drop off
50% SoC: 8% drop off
25% SoC: 12% drop off
10% SoC: 15% drop off

But yeah I was just wondering that since I have 10% degradation, if that means my 100% SoC is really functioning like a 91% SoC, and if that means I’ve essentially lost like 0.8% max power permanently. Just not sure if that’s how the battery mechanics work, etc.

 

[Candleflame]

You talking degradation or actual charge?

If talking about battery charge: From bjorn nyland (cannot recall spelling) I believe each model year or iteration changes how they perform with charge. The chart he had showed 2019 had the least variation with lower charge.

The car supplies the power to the inverter via either electron pressure (voltage) or speed of flow (amperage). Once the voltage gradient/pressure drops due to the battery SOC lowering it has to increase the flowrate of electrons, but there is a limit how many amps the inverter will accept and also a limit on how many amps the cells can provide without suffering from even more pressure/voltage sag.

Atm a 78kwh pack can supply way more power at 100% than what is needed, apparently once the effective size shrinks by 20% thats when the first performance losses start occuring.

I dont think 20% degradation is the same as a 80% SOC battery as a 100% charged battery with 20% degradation still has an easier time achieving a higher voltage gradient to pump the electrons across into the inverter.


something like that

 

[MagnusMako]

True, still probably safe assumption of same diameter.

Btw, how many miles do you get to full charge nowadays? I’m at 279, down from 310, aka 10% degradation. Just curious if that plays any (likely small) role in acceleration top-end drop-off for our 3-year old 2018s. I’m wondering if my 90% SoC would now be the “acceleration equivalent” of a brand new car’s 81% SoC.

I checked a month ago and it was around 265 if I recall correctly. His car was a 2019.

 

[h2sux2]

I have a 2018 AWD and my motor did not have a sticker on it, but it was confirmed today that I have a 990 motor - The level of disappointment has left me Thoroughly Depressed...
Flashbacks of being 7 years old and opening nothing but shirts, socks and underwear on Christmas morning is overwhelming.

On the brightside, I have experience and can assist anyone in the Chicago area who may not have the skills for this install - for a small fee (hey, I need something to help cure my depression!)

What month in 2018 was your car made? How did they find out? In the TeamViewer meeting?

 

[h2sux2]

I asked Ingenext this, but he hasn’t responded yet. Does anyone know the answer to this in regards to the Ghost DIY? What is actually done when Ingenext remotes into my computer?

Is he permanently flashing a modified firmware to the motor?

If so, are there any remnants of the ghost modification left behind once the module is removed?

Yes, they are flashing firmware into the motor inverter. I don’t know if they can flash it back to factory specs - I’m curious myself.

If you/they cannot flash it back to factory specs, then it would be permanent... even if you remove the module the firmware will remain, and should be trivial to detect.

For the ones that installed it:
- how do you get the original firmware back?
- has this affected Autopilot at all?
- any known drivetrain warranty claims (regardless of outcome)
- how has this mod (Ghost) devalued your car (assuming you are honest with potential buyers)? Have anyone sold one with Ghost and taken a hit?

 

[MagnusMako]

Yes, they are flashing firmware into the motor inverter. I don’t know if they can flash it back to factory specs - I’m curious myself.

If you/they cannot flash it back to factory specs, then it would be permanent... even if you remove the module the firmware will remain, and should be trivial to detect.

For the ones that installed it:
- how do you get the original firmware back?
- has this affected Autopilot at all?
- any known drivetrain warranty claims (regardless of outcome)
- how has this mod (Ghost) devalued your car (assuming you are honest with potential buyers)? Have anyone sold one with Ghost and taken a hit?

I have already gone through this. To revert back, you simply power down the car, remove the mod hardware then reconnect the harness back to the MCU as it was originally and the car reboots back to the stock settings it was before. I don't think it's flashing anything to the inverter firmware. I think it's just intercepting the CANbus for power instructions to the motors (think man in the middle hack). I have Accel Boost and AP both post purchase and the car went back to normal with both of those still enabled when I had it taken in for service.
AP is not affected whatsoever to my knowledge. I have done plenty of Tesla updates without issue and am on the latest one.
No drivetrain issues. It seems a pretty simple flash to P and nothing more. Have used the pack heating and drift features as well. The door opening feature I use all the time and it baffles me why Tesla doesn't have this as an option by default. Walking up to the door and just having to pull the jam after it auto opens is really a nice convenience, especially when I have to carry things in both hands.
Haven't looked into devaluation but am considering private sale and upgrading to Plaid (if they ever get a normal wheel) at some point. I'd probably give the customer the option to keep the mod or I can remove it and bring the price down. I'd be willing to bet certain buyers would want to keep it on after test driving. But everyone's concerns about warranty and dealing with mod removal / re-installation is different. All depends on the buyer.

 

[Candleflame]

I have already gone through this. To revert back, you simply power down the car, remove the mod hardware then reconnect the harness back to the MCU as it was originally and the car reboots back to the stock settings it was before. I don't think it's flashing anything to the inverter firmware. I think it's just intercepting the CANbus for power instructions to the motors (think man in the middle hack). I have Accel Boost and AP both post purchase and the car went back to normal with both of those still enabled when I had it taken in for service.
AP is not affected whatsoever to my knowledge. I have done plenty of Tesla updates without issue and am on the latest one.
No drivetrain issues. It seems a pretty simple flash to P and nothing more. Have used the pack heating and drift features as well. The door opening feature I use all the time and it baffles me why Tesla doesn't have this as an option by default. Walking up to the door and just having to pull the jam after it auto opens is really a nice convenience, especially when I have to carry things in both hands.
Haven't looked into devaluation but am considering private sale and upgrading to Plaid (if they ever get a normal wheel) at some point. I'd probably give the customer the option to keep the mod or I can remove it and bring the price down. I'd be willing to bet certain buyers would want to keep it on after test driving. But everyone's concerns about warranty and dealing with mod removal / re-installation is different. All depends on the buyer.

the car has built in autoopening doors?

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Yes, they are flashing firmware into the motor inverter. I don’t know if they can flash it back to factory specs - I’m curious myself.

If you/they cannot flash it back to factory specs, then it would be permanent... even if you remove the module the firmware will remain, and should be trivial to detect.

For the ones that installed it:
- how do you get the original firmware back?
- has this affected Autopilot at all?
- any known drivetrain warranty claims (regardless of outcome)
- how has this mod (Ghost) devalued your car (assuming you are honest with potential buyers)? Have anyone sold one with Ghost and taken a hit?

To answer your question:

I have a friend that actually brought his car into the service center with ghost. Of course he took out the module prior his appointment and ran the car. The car went completely back to stock power and was instantly felt. After Tesla did the service he plugged it back in and everything went back to ingenext settings. No reprogramming. No nothing.

 

[MagnusMako]

the car has built in autoopening doors?

Normally when you pull the handle to open the door, the door opens itself. That's all this is doing, but just making it proximity based so it's more automatic.

 

[Luudcrs]

The door opening feature I use all the time and it baffles me why Tesla doesn't have this as an option by default. Walking up to the door and just having to pull the jam after it auto opens is really a nice convenience, especially when I have to carry things in both hands.

Does yours open enough to simply pull the door's edge open consistently? Mine does it about 80% of the time. The other 20%, it barely pops it out so I still have to use the handle.

the car has built in autoopening doors?

It's one of the added features for the Ghost module.

 

[MagnusMako]

Does yours open enough to simply pull the door's edge open consistently? Mine does it about 80% of the time. The other 20%, it barely pops it out so I still have to use the handle.

It's one of the added features for the Ghost module.

I would say it either opens it consistently or it doesn't open it at all. I've never had it only barely open it. I'd say it's likely your door mechanism is a tad inconsistent itself - which wouldn't be related to the mod. I've had problems in general with my phone consistently connecting to the car even before the Ghost - so sometimes I would have to use my key card or wait around a while next to it before it'd connect and let me open, so I'd pin that issue on the car and not the mod. It's probably time to upgrade my Pixel 2 soon anyhow so hopefully that makes it more consistent. The only downside to the feature is walking by or around the car when you're not wanting to open it but that's not often enough that I can't deal with it.

 

[h2sux2]

I have already gone through this. To revert back, you simply power down the car, remove the mod hardware then reconnect the harness back to the MCU as it was originally and the car reboots back to the stock settings it was before. I don't think it's flashing anything to the inverter firmware. I think it's just intercepting the CANbus for power instructions to the motors (think man in the middle hack). I have Accel Boost and AP both post purchase and the car went back to normal with both of those still enabled when I had it taken in for service.
AP is not affected whatsoever to my knowledge. I have done plenty of Tesla updates without issue and am on the latest one.
No drivetrain issues. It seems a pretty simple flash to P and nothing more. Have used the pack heating and drift features as well. The door opening feature I use all the time and it baffles me why Tesla doesn't have this as an option by default. Walking up to the door and just having to pull the jam after it auto opens is really a nice convenience, especially when I have to carry things in both hands.
Haven't looked into devaluation but am considering private sale and upgrading to Plaid (if they ever get a normal wheel) at some point. I'd probably give the customer the option to keep the mod or I can remove it and bring the price down. I'd be willing to bet certain buyers would want to keep it on after test driving. But everyone's concerns about warranty and dealing with mod removal / re-installation is different. All depends on the buyer.

Thanks for answering!

I do think that there is firmware flashing with GHOST (not so with the other modules), they say it in the instructions:

4. Give us access to your laptop via Team Viewer.
5. Press the brake pedal.
6. Give us 15 min to reprogram your motor.

My question is: how you reprogram it back to stock if desired? (if even possible)

 

[ODWms]

I’d like to see Tesla add this functionality to the app for the driver door on approach, and on the in-car screen for opening of the passenger doors. It would be soooo nice to hit a button on the screen, for instance, when a passenger approaches, so they can just pull the door jam to get in. Would certainly be better than having to lower the window first to shout instructions at them.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

I’d like to see Tesla add this functionality to the app for the driver door on approach, and on the in-car screen for opening of the passenger doors. It would be soooo nice to hit a button on the screen, for instance, when a passenger approaches, so they can just pull the door jam to get in. Would certainly be better than having to lower the window first to shout instructions at them.

Its the exact same feature as the model X. That’s the Tesla built in version.

 

[xyxx]

Haven't looked into devaluation but am considering private sale and upgrading to Plaid (if they ever get a normal wheel) at some point.

they will offer the normal steering wheel soon and also make it available as a post-sale purchase

 

[mmyers300]

What month in 2018 was your car made? How did they find out? In the TeamViewer meeting?

Manufactured 11/2018. Yes, Team Viewer.

 

[alekaras]

Has anyone installed the Boost 50 module from Ingenext? Would like to know experiences from using? How difficult was the installation? Is it a pain to have to remove it for updates? Thanks.

 

[Gasaraki]

No issues. Installation was easy but I'm a skinning guy and can bend, lay back and reach the connector. Unplugging the connector is easy but you don't have to unplug it for updates. You just want to unplug it when you take it in for service.

 

[edith2.0]

Have you compared it to a boost upgrade M3? Who’s quickest, etc…

 

[edith2.0]

No issues. Installation was easy but I'm a skinning guy and can bend, lay back and reach the connector. Unplugging the connector is easy but you don't have to unplug it for updates. You just want to unplug it when you take it in for service.

Have you had it serviced since the installation?