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Installing a Passport 9500ci radar detector / laser diffuser

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I don't have any photos, but I used a plastic pry bar, and the dash is held on by clips. They release, but fairly hard. That said, I did not need to remove it completely, I just lifted the trailing edge enough to to run and tie the wires underneath. The led is easy as the plastic piece over the instrument cluster just snaps out much easier than the dash.

Even though I did my own on the first car, it was a big job, and Elie at Al and Eds made me a great offer to install the one in my 2nd car. I had some business in LA to do, and Elie had his guys there on Saturday to complete it. He has an HPWC to have your car charged, and had a rental car waiting when I dropped mine off!! What Great service. I could not justify the time and headache, and they did a great job.

Install was perfect. Thanks for the tip on that plastic piece above the cluster.

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Mine is behind the nosecone (magnetized) on the top of steel bar. Works great!!

I just installed the 9500ci in the dash and it's having problems connecting with the GPS. I assume I should move it under the mesh on the dash. My installed felt that it was bake too much in the sunlight. Do I need to move it to the nosecone?
 
I also enquired locally about doing this install (actually, with the BEL (Beltronics) STiR-Plus which is made by Escort and is basically identical to the Passport 9500ci, but gets slightly better reviews), and the locally highly recommended installer I talked with said that without an electrical schematic for the car, they wouldn't touch it. Problem is, Tesla refuses to provide the electrical schematic. Even more worrisome, Tesla told me in no uncertain terms that if a detector were installed by anyone who wasn't a licensed installer, it would void the car's warranty. Catch 22, because at least the licensed installer I talked with won't to it without the wiring diagram, and I suppose I can't fault them for that. Thoughts? Suggestions?

Well that's crazy as the only connection to the car is power and a ground. The power draw is less than your charging cell phone. You need to find another installer or do it yourself. Your warrenty will not be affected unless your installation affects a system, which is highly unlikely.
 
Well that's crazy as the only connection to the car is power and a ground. The power draw is less than your charging cell phone. You need to find another installer or do it yourself. Your warrenty will not be affected unless your installation affects a system, which is highly unlikely.

I know I am late to the conversation but since countermeasures is part of my primary business I will add some input to those looking for protection.

Your shifters were installed behind the grill and they will not work properly in that location. For Laser Shifters to work properly they need to be level and flush with the front of the vehicle. I found an install on here which is what actually brought me to this site in the first place: Installation of radar detector, laser jammers, and electromagnetic parking sensors that install was done correctly and he will have good performance.

The 9500CI is also bundled with ZR4 shifter heads which in comparison to the competitors in the field is a poor laser shifter. You are much better off getting the Beltronics Sti-R Plus (You can buy it without shifters) and then purchase 3rd party jammer's which will perform much better and are much smaller. I would go with the AL Priority laser jammer which is has the smallest heads and offers the best performance.
 
I did a self install of the 9500CI and placed the display module and LED in the mirror. All the other components were installed like the other members did.


I popped the left side of the mirror base (where the rain sensor is) and then twisted the mirror column to the left and it came right off. It is held on by a plastic tie wrap that I cut and then disconnected the cable.


Once the mirror is off, the slow part is prying the plastic case from the glass and circut board. I used a flat jewelers screw driver and thin spudge to slowly work around the plastic border to finally pop the front of the mirror from the case. The secret is to pry the case up and then use the spudger to GENTLY move the mirror forward out of the case. After a couple of times around the perimeter the mirror/board will come out.


The circuit board is attached to the mirror with 3M tape, but has a rectangle area on the right that almost fits the width of the display module. I dremeled the plastic around the opening and then removed the tape to make the module fit. I should have made the opening slightly wider to account for parallax from the left seat ( the left half of the first letter pixels are slightly blocked by the tape - should have moved the module more to the right).


The modular connector at the end of the wire from both the Module and LED need to be cut to thread the cables into the mirror column hole where the circuit board cable goes. From there it's easy to run the wire under the liner to the A pillar. There you unscrew the Torx screw and run the wire down toward the left door jam. But, the problem is the wire is not long enough. I called Escort and they said to use telephone wire and a modular telephone inline connector to finish the run. For some reason (voltage drop??) this did not work and I ended up soldering both wires to complete the connection (even though Escort says not to do this, but it works fine for me). By the way, the modular RJ22 connector is a SMALLER that the standard RJ11 Telephone connector. I could only buy the RJ22 online and they are not sold at Radio Shack, Lowes or Home Depot, but can find them here: RJ-22 (4P4C) Connector Flat-Stranded - 1ea.


The LED bulb fits perfectly into an existing hole on the left side of the circuit board (almost like it's made for it). I just used electrical tape to fix it in place and then ran the cable with the display module one. Of course you have to remove the tape where the bulb contacts the mirror.


AJ
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Love the mirror installation! Did you have to do anything to the mirror's coating to allow the a text to shine through?

I asked AJ in a PM as I had the same question - sharing his response for others:

All you have to do is remove the backing tape which then exposes the mirror. You only remove enough tape to mount the rectangular display module. The hard part was being careful in removing the mirror from the plastic housing.
 
Here's another quick vid shot of an LED Mirror installed 9500ci on a Model S.

done by JT and his team at Al&Ed's in OC...

the Coolest thing is how he also installed the Control Module into the base of the Mirror itself!


 
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I installed the LED and display of an STiR Plus (identical to the 9500ci) in my mirror this weekend. Unfortunately, in my haste, I chipped the bottom of the mirror while trying to separate the front glass from the back plastic cover using a metal screw driver. What a bummer :(
If you are planning to do that, follows those tips:
* First, the mirror is not glued to the back piece (I used hair dryer thinking I will get it soft). It is a snap system. Make sure to start with thin flat screw driver and as you open the gap between the mirror and back piece, keep wedging longer flat objects. Preferably made of hard plastic.
* When you end up with the two pieces separated, with the wires plugged out, get the LED and display through the mirror post. Unlike AHJ in the previous page stating: "The modular connector at the end of the wire from both the Module and LED need to be cut to thread the cables into the mirror column hole where the circuit board cable goes", I didn't have to cut the modular head. It fits.
* Next, there is a sticky black thin foam in the back of the mirror, You will have to cut and remove a piece identical in size to the display in the square hole but there is not enough opening, you will have to cut through the hard plastic to fit the display. Mark the small section you need to cut and remove it. I used a sharp blade I heated over the stove range and pretty much melted/cut the little plastic.
* You will also have to remove the foam from the inside of the hole ment for the LED. Usee sharp pointed metal object. I was afraid to scratch the glass, but didn't. Dont be too concern with it.
* Last, I attached the display and LED to place and glued the side with silicone glue. It'l easy to remove in time and will hold everything into place.
* route the mirror wires, LED and display cables through the loop as the original wires where. It's a tight fit but you can make it.
AHJ
Now it look like OEM and it's just beautiful. Only if I didn't chip the mirror... Damn :(
 
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I know there are a lot of older posts about this. I have not seen any since the new forward looking camera was installed into the cars. Has anyone been successful in wiring up a passport to the rearview mirror? Has anyone found the sweet-spot for the windshield placement?

I just got my car last week and looking to get it road ready... Coating, Window tint, Radar detector, etc.
 
"any idea if they have enough experience with the Tesla Model S (or D) to make it flawless?"
That I do not know. They have a big reputation, are the distributors for most of the higher end detectors, and seem to do a lot of expensive cars.
They did my last car but this go round I am going with a one man show who is reasonable but slow....and I hope good!
Will know more by tomorrow night.