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Installing NEMA 14-50...

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Looks doable with two 50A breakers. But the leaf (and eventually the Model 3) can only charge at 32A or so, so all you need is a 40A breaker for that circuit. Do you have a hardwired EVSE for the leaf, or does it have a NEMA 14-50 plug? You’ll save a lot of money since you’d be able to run 8 gauge wire instead of 6 gauge wire that you would need for a 50A circuit.

Also, for the Wall Connector, a Model 3 can quite happily charge at 32A, so again, a 40A circuit would work.

Since that’s a 200A panel, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t have two EVs charging at the same time, especially at midnight when you don’t have many other loads.
 
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OR you could just tap into your electrical panel like all other sane people :). it would cost a bit extra but it will be up to code instead of what you've shown in pictures. btw, there were already threads on how to do these runs on this and model3 owners club you might want to search for.

That is an electrical panel he has shown. The only thing that gives me pause is that I don’t see a panel disconnect breaker anywhere. The 100A breaker is a sub panel breaker. But where’s the main panel breaker?
 
OR you could just tap into your electrical panel like all other sane people :). it would cost a bit extra but it will be up to code instead of what you've shown in pictures. btw, there were already threads on how to do these runs on this and model3 owners club you might want to search for.

This is the RIGHT electrical panel to tap into. Sorry if I did not describe my setup clearly to begin with.

PGE
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Meter (200A)
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First panel (100A, 50A 15A)
| |
Garage Panel AC

I am adding my 50A circuit in the first panel, NOT IN THE GARAGE PANEL.
If I were to add to my Garage Panel, there will be only 50A left for my house (100A minus 50A).
 
But not the regular (SR) version. Regardless, 32A charging is fine. Also note that to get 48A charging, you’d have to install 60A breaker and wire...
The op hasn’t said what his charging requirements are, but apparently he is planning on installing the wall connector. He can also set it to charge at 40 amps on the 50 amp breaker he wants to install.
 
Disclaimer: all of my advice will work and won't burn your house down. I live in the country outside Houston Texas and no one cares what I do out here. If you have a local nazi group that has different standards than normal people and they want conduit color coded to the architectural standards of the HOA I can't help you with that. I ain't fancy

Also for the other Nazis. Most places in the US do not require an electrician to do this, unless there is a local nazi code, which I know of none. Just because some people live in a bubble and have lived in the same general area doesn't mean anything about the rest of the 300 million other people is the same. The things which MUST have an inspection are anything that connects to the grid (new service, solar gird-tie, etc) Things that MIGHT require inspection are things like sub panel installations. (I get sub/panel installs inspected for the heck of it but never breaker installs) I own an electrical services company and there is a master electrician, never once has he told me hey don't do that, hey i'll come look at that, hey you need to pull a permit for that first, hey you need to have the inspector stop by your house when you run the new breaker for your charger/evse. If the certified master electrician and inspectors say I'm good to go on my own do you think I'm listening to them or a desk jockey in San Mateo?

Want to save some time/money? Run 40 amp breakers on a 14-50 plug and charge at 32amps you can run 8/3 romex for $2.44/ft and be done. No you want 50amp because you never know what you'll need this for? Great, keep reading.


Some things to consider as you'll need to make the decision on the wiring route.

WIRE
NOPE) Romex/NM outdoor cable no conduit needed you'll need 6ga mains - I'm listing it but your retarded if you actually do it - don't do it. You're going to use conduit, I'm telling you now.



A) NMB/Romex in conduit you'll need 6/3 which is three, 6ga mains and usually a 10ga ground. $2.85/ft

Southwire (By-the-Foot) 6/3 Stranded Romex SIMpull CU NM-B W/G Wire-63950099 - The Home Depot

B) Individual THHN/THWN wires. You have to run 4 individual wires in conduit but you can run 8 gauge of THHN/THWN plus 10ga for ground instead of the 6ga with NM-B $1.92/ft for all 4 cables ($0.52*3)+$0.36


Cerrowire 50 ft. 8-Gauge Black Stranded THHN Wire-112-4001BR - The Home Depot

Home depot isn't pulling up some of the links online but I can always find it in store by the foot or packaged THHN-THWN rated in whatever color. Don't skip and get the bare copper ground get a coated one if going the THWN route. Running a 240v circuit you can run 2 blacks(hot)/white/ground but I always run Black(hot)/Red(hot)/White/Green This simply avoids future confusion when anyone goes in after you. My house came wired with a bunch of dual blacks on 240 and I hate it.

Also always run 4 wire 240v (3mains/ground) I call it 4 wire to avoid confusion with the occasional DIYer. Running that 3 stuff still flies some places but it's retarded in the long run, also you can do some cool stuff with it later.

Conduit How you have it drawn not happening

F'N A. so I typed all this stuff and realized it wont work the way you have it drawn. I was going to put the junction where you have it then run individual conduit to LB connectors but I don't now whats on the other side of the stuco to secure the LB connectors. Do You? If not and it's mostly hollow-ish I would run as follows.

You'll want to run PVC conduit because I like it.

From the breaker box a 1-1/2" lock nut to a 1-1/2" adapter:

This: Halex 1-1/2 in. Rigid Sealer Conduit Locknuts (2-Pack)-96185 - The Home Depot

Connects to This :Carlon 1-1/2 in. Non-Metallic Terminal Adapter-E943HR-CTN - The Home Depot

Then run 1.5" conduit with the individual cables for each circuit all the way to the backside of the garage wall THEN put the junction box.

Connect conduit to box via this and use liberal amounts of sealant(after the pvc cement). 1-1/2 in. Box Adapter-R5133719 - The Home Depot

Then drill another hole going out and do the same thing for the individual lines so you'll have a 1.5" hole in the side of the box with wire coming in and a single 1.5" hole in the back with the wires going through the wall. use the same box adapter so it physically goes into the stuco/wall

Then, assuming the structure is hollow-ish like a normal wall, drill two holes on the front side of the garage and fish through the individual circuits. Wire up the circuits however you planed on. 1 hole in back for the junction, 2 holes up front for the chargers.

Conclusion

Pretty simple when you think about it. Use two 50A breakers, simple knockout from the breaker box with locknut/conduit adapter, run conduit to junction box, run wire from breaker to junction, drill hole in back of box and wall, drill 2 holes on front of wall, run wire through holes, wire receptacles , wire up breakers, test, turn breakers off, mount boxes and seal everything up, turn breakers back on and test circuits again.

Parts list
2X 50A breakers
1 X lock nut
1X terminal adapter
??? X 1.5" conduit and elbows
??? X conduit straps
1X Junction box
2X 1.5" box adapter, you can use lock nut and terminal adapters if you want
PVC cement for box adapters
14-50 plugs

What ever wire you choose 6/3 Romex/NM-B is easier, THWN is cheaper.

How I'd do it in yellow

conduit.jpg
 
Disclaimer: all of my advice will work and won't burn your house down. I live in the country outside Houston Texas and no one cares what I do out here. If you have a local nazi group that has different standards than normal people and they want conduit color coded to the architectural standards of the HOA I can't help you with that. I ain't fancy

Also for the other Nazis. Most places in the US do not require an electrician to do this, unless there is a local nazi code, which I know of none. Just because some people live in a bubble and have lived in the same general area doesn't mean anything about the rest of the 300 million other people is the same. The things which MUST have an inspection are anything that connects to the grid (new service, solar gird-tie, etc) Things that MIGHT require inspection are things like sub panel installations. (I get sub/panel installs inspected for the heck of it but never breaker installs)
Many jurisdictions (including Union City, CA; https://www.unioncity.org/DocumentCenter/View/172) require permits and inspections for any electrical work more extensive than replacing a lamp. Following regulations designed to protect peoples safety doesn't make you a nazi, and I get the idea the op doesn't have much experience with electrical work.
 
Many jurisdictions (including Union City, CA; https://www.unioncity.org/DocumentCenter/View/172) require permits and inspections for any electrical work more extensive than replacing a lamp. Following regulations designed to protect peoples safety doesn't make you a nazi, and I get the idea the op doesn't have much experience with electrical work.

https://www.unioncity.org/DocumentCenter/View/122

Permit can be pulled by the owner. Still don't need an electrician.
 
Good one LCR1. If wiring a NEMA 14-50, then yeah, you have to run 4 wires. If wiring a hard wired EVSE or a Tesla Wall Connector, then just run three wires, no need for the neutral.
No need now with a wall charger but I always recommend doing it, wiring lasts decades and it's cheap insurance down the road instead of running more wire or in this guys case having to pull a $167 permit if the needs change.

An example for those wondering is the HPWC goes out after the warranty and the new solution in 8 years requires 3wires+G
 
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No need now with a wall charger but I always recommend doing it, wiring lasts decades and it's cheap insurance down the road instead of running more wire or in this guys case having to pull a $167 permit if the needs change.

An example for those wondering is the HPWC goes out after the warranty and the new solution in 8 years requires 3wires+G

Opinions will differ, but I think it's wasted money. Any new HPWC won't require a rewire job (that would be nuts - no manufacturer would do that to customers), so new HPWCs will only need 3 wires.
 
Opinions will differ, but I think it's wasted money. Any new HPWC won't require a rewire job (that would be nuts - no manufacturer would do that to customers), so new HPWCs will only need 3 wires.
What if he gets a different brand EV in the future? Or moves and wants to take the wall charger? It’s a nice option to be able to easily and cheaply install a 14-50. Obviously it depends on the complexity of the install - if it’s easy to run a new wire in the future then may as well save the money. If it’s going to be a pain then it’s a minimal cost now to save a much larger one later.
 
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Looks doable with two 50A breakers. But the leaf (and eventually the Model 3) can only charge at 32A or so, so all you need is a 40A breaker for that circuit. Do you have a hardwired EVSE for the leaf, or does it have a NEMA 14-50 plug? You’ll save a lot of money since you’d be able to run 8 gauge wire instead of 6 gauge wire that you would need for a 50A circuit.
I personally would not do this. The savings for a 40a breaker are minimal. If you put a 40a breaker with 8ga wire on a 14-50 outlet, the next homeowner is likely to say “I’ll just replace this with a 50a breaker” ... then there is a risk.

If you want to save a bit on wiring, use a 6-50 or HPWC which does not require the neutral.
 
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Gee, those 6 AWG wires are thick and hard to manipulate. From the panel to the junction box is romex (NM) cable. From the junction box on are THHN wires.
The pillar is hallow but better be safe than sorry, drill 2 tiny holes in the opposite direction to make sure you see thru first.
I did use a EMT conduit inside the pillar.
The NEMA 14-50 box - should have used a lockable version in case someone wants to steal the level 2 charger.
Home Depot and Lowes have ALMOST everything. Dale Hardware at Fremont (ACE) has the rest of the stuff you could not find.
This could have cost my over $1000 to install but I think I spent about $250 for the parts and maybe 6 hrs (excluding trips to the stores.)
Make sure you do have a lot of tools ALREADY (hammer drill, disc grinder, caulk gun, voltmeter, ammeter, concrete hole saw bits, masonry bits, etc...) Otherwise it is not worth it. If you want to me do it for you for a charge (if you are in the Bay Area), I might be available.
 
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Looks nice. Could you have used a single conduit from the junction box under the panel to the external NEMA 14-50 receptacle box, and run 2 sets of 6 gauge wire in there? Bigger conduit of course. And then used the 14-50 receptacle box as a way to get the second set of 6 gauge wires to the Wall Connector.

Anyways, glad it all worked out, looks good.
 
Good suggestion but....
No, anything 1" like outdoor metal box with 1" openings (Dale Hardware has it I eventually found out), offset compression connectors (I am not good with bending pipes still), etc are hard to find. It is not easy (for me) to bend 1" EMT conduit either (and the 1" tube bender is very expensive and I already have a 3/4 bender), and there is not much room under the NEMA 14-50 plug to let another set of 6-3 wires to pass thru.
Also, a side note, keep in mind that there is no wind nuts that can handle three 6 awg wires unless you go with those EXPENSIVE polaris connectors and they are BIG.
i spent some time looking for a decent size NEMA 3R box but they are at least 4 inch high (sticking out too much to my liking) and no thread holes (meaning you have to drill) and could not find any I like so I ended up using a standard 2 gage outdoor box and to my surprise I did not need to have an extension box on top and all 8 wing nut connections fit in (but very tight.)

Getting access to a flush mount panel is always hard. These 6 awg wires, (or romex 6-3) are HARD to bend. Anything deviates from simple straight forward installation would immediate impose challenges. In my case, I want 2 50A circuits, pulling them from a flush mounted panel to a surface mount box, then going thru a garage pillar that I was not sure was hallow at where I wanted to drill were some of all the challenges.
 
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