Installing the official Tesla model 3 roof rack

[TomHudson]

There was some chatter a while back that Yakima was working with Tesla to design and build the roof rack for the 3, so I'm hopeful the crossbars are the same as Yakima's Whispbars.

I think my strategy will be to first see if I can get some T-bolts and figure out how to mount my carrier with those, since that would be the best and most surefire way to mount it. Then if that doesn't work out, try a set of the MightyMounts. I'll post an update as I move forward.

 

[EVnut]

And no, I can't imagine you would remove the rubber. The rubber keeps the T-bolt in place. It just needs to be softened.

Got it. Maybe try a heat gun to actually soften that rubber?

I've used T-slot products for many projects. None of them include rubber inserts. So I'm personally having trouble envisioning the rubber as being "needed" keep the T-bolts in place. You mean so they don't drop down too deep into the slot? Because actually nutting them tight is what eventually keeps them from moving out of place, of course.

 

[Lunares]

Got it. Maybe try a heat gun to actually soften that rubber?

I've used T-slot products for many projects. None of them include rubber inserts. So I'm personally having trouble envisioning the rubber as being "needed" keep the T-bolts in place. You mean so they don't drop down too deep into the slot? Because actually nutting them tight is what eventually keeps them from moving out of place, of course.

Here's kinda what it looks like. Maybe the rubber is for aerodynamics/wind noise?

http://www.innoracks.com/int/images/products/pic_aero_about02_e.jpg

 

[chrislayy]

Here's kinda what it looks like. Maybe the rubber is for aerodynamics/wind noise?

http://www.innoracks.com/int/images/products/pic_aero_about02_e.jpg

The rubber is absolutely for aerodynamics and wind noise.

 

[EVnut]

The rubber is absolutely for aerodynamics and wind noise.

Yup. Just coming here to agree.

And there's really no way to remove it when you wish to use the T-slot?

 

[chrislayy]

Yup. Just coming here to agree.

And there's really no way to remove it when you wish to use the T-slot?

You can remove the rubber if you want, not recommended though as you will get a lot of wind noise. You simply compress the rubber and then use a little WD-40 to slide the T-bolt in.

 

[WattsHappening]

Thanks @chrislayy. Ok, I went out and was able to slide the T-bolts using some lubricant. Still a fair amount of work, but I expect it will get easier as the rubber loosens up.

The Fatcat ski rack looks really slick using the T-slot adapters. The ski rack sits about an inch lower than with the clamp. Good for aesthetics, but it sits too low -- bindings just touch the glass. I think I'm going to go with the clamps on the front and the T-slots in the rear. That makes both about even (since the front rack sits a bit lower than the rear.

 

[chrislayy]

Thanks @chrislayy. Ok, I went out and was able to slide the T-bolts using some lubricant. Still a fair amount of work, but I expect it will get easier as the rubber loosens up.

The Fatcat ski rack looks really slick using the T-slot adapters. The ski rack sits about an inch lower than with the clamp. Good for aesthetics, but it sits too low -- bindings just touch the glass. I think I'm going to go with the clamps on the front and the T-slots in the rear. That makes both about even (since the front rack sits a bit lower than the rear.

I used the Yakima replacement t slot mounting hardware RPL ASSY T-SLOT FATCAT ,instead of the smart slot 2 kit.

The only difference is that replacement slot is about a 1/2 inch taller, which gives you about another 1/2 inch of clearance for your bindings.

 

[WattsHappening]

I used the Yakima replacement t slot mounting hardware RPL ASSY T-SLOT FATCAT ,instead of the smart slot 2 kit.

The only difference is that replacement slot is about a 1/2 inch taller, which gives you about another 1/2 inch of clearance for your bindings.

Good to know; thanks!

 

[Lunares]

Thanks @chrislayy. Ok, I went out and was able to slide the T-bolts using some lubricant. Still a fair amount of work, but I expect it will get easier as the rubber loosens up.

The Fatcat ski rack looks really slick using the T-slot adapters. The ski rack sits about an inch lower than with the clamp. Good for aesthetics, but it sits too low -- bindings just touch the glass. I think I'm going to go with the clamps on the front and the T-slots in the rear. That makes both about even (since the front rack sits a bit lower than the rear.

What kind of bindings/skis do you have?

I'll probably just have to give it a try with mine to see how low the bindings are.

 

[WattsHappening]

What kind of bindings/skis do you have?

I'll probably just have to give it a try with mine to see how low the bindings are.

The ones I tried were my frontside skis with integrated binding plate and Marker bindings. The bindings on these skis sit higher than my other pairs of skis, so that is what I tested with. My wider skis with flat binding mounts fit better, with about a half inch of clearance.

Definitely give it a try. Like I said, the T-slot attachment is really sleek, low profile with I expect better aerodynamics.

 

[Lunares]

The ones I tried were my frontside skis with integrated binding plate and Marker bindings. The bindings on these skis sit higher than my other pairs of skis, so that is what I tested with. My wider skis with flat binding mounts fit better, with about a half inch of clearance.

Definitely give it a try. Like I said, the T-slot attachment is really sleek, low profile with I expect better aerodynamics.

One of my skis are volkl kendos with demo bindings so those are a bit tall. Will have to give it a try!

I might go with the brackets just so I can take the rack off and on

 

[Lunares]

@sroh , do you know what size the allen wrench that came with the kit is? My guess is 3/8"?

I'm trying to buy a torque wrench to use to put this on since I figure I'll be taking the crossbars off/on every season

 

[WattsHappening]

@Lunares,

Nice skis!

The manual doesn't state the size of the hex wrench, but I just measured and it looks like 5/16".

 

[Lunares]

@Lunares,

Nice skis!

The manual doesn't state the size of the hex wrench, but I just measured and it looks like 5/16".

Thanks! all I could tell was that it was bigger than my 1/4" (largest in my set)

i'll probably just take it into home depot in the end since amazon's kits are poor and I hope home depot will sell me a single ratchet head

 

[TheWeasel]

Alarming news installing the roof rack on my model 3. Tightening it up to less than 3nm or 20 in-ft which is the minimum my torque wrench would go, I hear some cracking noise and decide to stop and let the service center finish the installation. They found out one of the clips connecting the front rail of the rack to the roof snapped. Later in the evening I hear a loud crack and one of the back clips snaps as well.
Chatting with Tesla they will send replacement clips, but it makes me think if this setup is reliable enough and we won't be seeing racks flying off cars in the near future. One thing I'm sure of, the 8nm torque spec in the instructions is too high.

 

[TomHudson]

Alarming news installing the roof rack on my model 3.

Thanks for the photos; that IS kind of alarming. For a minute there I thought you meant the attachment points on the car frame had broken; either way this is not good.

 

[Blue in NC]

Yes, that is concerning. I did mine just by hand tightening but metal clips breaking is not good at all. Surprising since the nuts and other hardware seem to be high qualify pieces. I took my rack off for a few weeks but with any luck, might be re-installing it this weekend.

 

[Lunares]

Alarming news installing the roof rack on my model 3. Tightening it up to less than 3nm or 20 in-ft which is the minimum my torque wrench would go, I hear some cracking noise and decide to stop and let the service center finish the installation. They found out one of the clips connecting the front rail of the rack to the roof snapped. Later in the evening I hear a loud crack and one of the back clips snaps as well.
Chatting with Tesla they will send replacement clips, but it makes me think if this setup is reliable enough and we won't be seeing racks flying off cars in the near future. One thing I'm sure of, the 8nm torque spec in the instructions is too high.

Are you sure your torque wrench was appropriate? 20 in ft isnt a unit of torque. 3 Nm is 2.21 Ft lbs or 27 in lbs.

 

[kaerf]

Are you sure your torque wrench was appropriate? 20 in ft isnt a unit of torque. 3 Nm is 2.21 Ft lbs or 27 in lbs.

I signed up just to add this exact same thing happened to me at around 50 in lbs. Hoping Tesla can quickly replace the clips and provide better guidance. I am curious if somehow the clips weren’t aligned properly given where clips broke I’m surprised that was force was applied in that direction during tightening.