Installing the Tesla Wall Charger....

[Ninetenjack]

I recently completed the installation of the matte black wall charger, I am a handy guy but I have to admit this project pushed the limits of my DIY skills. If folks are determined to do it themselves I would highly recommend a couple of things:

• look at a few DIY videos, especially ones that would be pertinent to your install, for example my install fed power from the bottom (as opposed to from the top or back)
• please read the manual, it's written in a bunch of languages but the actual number of pages in English are no more than 6 to 10 pages, there is important stuff you can miss like the dip switch settings
• this install calls for manhandling 6 gauge wire, I think of myself as a reasonably fit, athletic guy, but trying to attach 6 gauge wire to my basement ceiling (by myself) was on par with wrestling an anaconda, so please get a friend to help this install needs 2 pairs of hands
• recognize your limits and don't be afraid to stop if you are not comfortable with going further, for me I did over 80% of the install but I called my contractor buddy to hookup the wires at the charger and breaker panel. It wasn't that I didn't know how to hook it up but the strength and dexterity needed to bend, twist and insert 6 gauge wire in a very confined area in my opinion is something better left to the professionals. Same thing with the breaker, less of an issue since there is more space but maneuvering 6 gauge wire is challenging
• Final point, think very carefully about where you want to put the charger, in my case it was in my garage on the back wall. Find the spot that will be the shortest distance to your break panel, this will save on cost and minimize voltage drop. I my case the distance was 52 feet, I am receiving 48 amps and charging at 74kph, voltage on average around 241 - 243 (so little or zero voltage drop)

The total cost was about $400 in material most of which was the wiring, I got the charger free for a referral. I will probably total about $480 after I buy my buddy a good bottle of scotch.

 

[bluetinc]

A couple of quick notes since you are calling this out for people with limited DIY skills:

Your call out of AWG #6 is very specific to the installation, planned current carrying limit, and the hardware used. As an example mine is installed with #2 Cu rather than #6.

For example, your install of #6 for a 48A continuous feed is only acceptable if:

1. You have Not More Than Three Current-Carrying Conductors in Raceway, Cable or Earth. Based on Ambient Temperature of no greater than 30°C (86°F).

2. You only used wire rated at 75C or greater.

3. You have terminations at both ends rated for 75C or greater. This is a major sticking point as most breakers are rated for 60C and can't handle the extra heat that needs to be dissipated above that.

If any of those are not true (which for most people they won't be), they will need to set their max charging current to 40A in the HPWC or move to #4 wire. -- Peter

I recently completed the installation of the matte black wall charger, I am a handy guy but I have to admit this project pushed the limits of my DIY skills. If folks are determined to do it themselves I would highly recommend a couple of things:

• look at a few DIY videos, especially ones that would be pertinent to your install, for example my install fed power from the bottom (as opposed to from the top or back)
• please read the manual, it's written in a bunch of languages but the actual number of pages in English are no more than 6 to 10 pages, there is important stuff you can miss like the dip switch settings
• this install calls for manhandling 6 gauge wire, I think of myself as a reasonably fit, athletic guy, but trying to attach 6 gauge wire to my basement ceiling (by myself) was on par with wrestling an anaconda, so please get a friend to help this install needs 2 pairs of hands
• recognize your limits and don't be afraid to stop if you are not comfortable with going further, for me I did over 80% of the install but I called my contractor buddy to hookup the wires at the charger and breaker panel. It wasn't that I didn't know how to hook it up but the strength and dexterity needed to bend, twist and insert 6 gauge wire in a very confined area in my opinion is something better left to the professionals. Same thing with the breaker, less of an issue since there is more space but maneuvering 6 gauge wire is challenging
• Final point, think very carefully about where you want to put the charger, in my case it was in my garage on the back wall. Find the spot that will be the shortest distance to your break panel, this will save on cost and minimize voltage drop. I my case the distance was 52 feet, I am receiving 48 amps and charging at 74kph, voltage on average around 241 - 243 (so little or zero voltage drop)

The total cost was about $400 in material most of which was the wiring, I got the charger free for a referral. I will probably total about $480 after I buy my buddy a good bottle of scotch.

 

[Ninetenjack]

A couple of quick notes since you are calling this out for people with limited DIY skills:

Your call out of AWG #6 is very specific to the installation, planned current carrying limit, and the hardware used. As an example mine is installed with #2 Cu rather than #6.

For example, your install of #6 for a 48A continuous feed is only acceptable if:

1. You have Not More Than Three Current-Carrying Conductors in Raceway, Cable or Earth. Based on Ambient Temperature of no greater than 30°C (86°F).

2. You only used wire rated at 75C or greater.

3. You have terminations at both ends rated for 75C or greater. This is a major sticking point as most breakers are rated for 60C and can't handle the extra heat that needs to be dissipated above that.

If any of those are not true (which for most people they won't be), they will need to set their max charging current to 40A in the HPWC or move to #4 wire. -- Peter

All good points full disclaimer I am not an electrician, a few more details on my install:

• My system used 3 wires 2 hot and a ground, the neutral was capped off at both ends
• I live in Canada the wire bought at Home Depot which conforms to all applicable standards I believe was 90C (will check)
• My house is new build with a 200 amp service, not sure but will assume can handle more than 60C

 

[bluetinc]

I'll admit that I'm not as familiar with Canadian electrical code as US, but the gottcha is usually the temperature rating of the breaker itself (it should be stamped on the side) that causes the entire run to be derated. -- Peter

 

[SpudLime]

wall *connector

 

[Ninetenjack]

I'll admit that I'm not as familiar with Canadian electrical code as US, but the gottcha is usually the temperature rating of the breaker itself (it should be stamped on the side) that causes the entire run to be derated. -- Peter

So I checked the wire size is 90C and the breaker is 75C......

 

[Sophias_dad]

So I checked the wire size is 90C and the breaker is 75C......

And at best the HPWC itself is 75C. I believe its called out in the HPWC manual, but only for top-entry.... I'm not sure why that is.

In the US, you wouldn't be allowed to put the 60 amp breaker on 6AWG NM-B(Romex) for use as a charging station at 48 amps delivered. The wire and breakers are supposed to be oversized by 25% over the continuous load, and it sounds like you aren't using conduit(and therefore are using NM-B) since you mention manhandling it to your basement ceiling. In the US, that NM-B is restricted to the 60C rating, meaning a maximum ampacity of 55 amps, less than the required 60 to get 48 amp continuous service.

Your messages are a bit conflicting, so maybe you are using conduit after all, or have some funky non-NMB arrangement. The US NEC is very conservative, as well.