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Invested $7K into my Roadster. Here’s what I got:

Discussion in 'Roadster' started by JohnnyLounge21, May 15, 2016.

  1. JohnnyLounge21

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    74
    Location:
    San Diego, CA, United States
    There are 3 main things that I wanted my Roadster to have (in order of less importance to more importance).
    • Bright daytime running lights that make it look more aggressive day and night
    • Much better sounding system in the cabin, a much better head unit and a much better integration with my iPhone 6
    • A car that’s much much much QUIETER when it’s rumbling down the road – to feel more solid, and a less like the Euro-chassis prototype that it is
    So on recommendation from my local Tesla service center (San Diego), I went to La Jolla audio and asked for all of the above. I got a price just under $7K to get everything done.

    The DRLs would take about an hour to install and cost about $300 (SCORE!). The new head unit and 2 new speakers in the front along with a custom built iPhone 6 holster would cost about $2K and installation would be another $1K or so. The remaining $4K would go to attempt to make the car quieter.

    The DRLs that we selected were a bright blue (to talk to the Glacier Blue color of the car) and we decided to slot them between the air intake louvers on the grille. I have no idea how they actually did all the electrical work on it – but I couldn’t be happier with the finished product. I have been told by multiple people that the vehicle looks a lot more aggressive when I’m tailing people and I get the feeling I’m more noticed during the day, increasing safety. And at night, they are even brighter still. Tesla has made no comments about it at the service center (no news is good news). There have been no electrical problems and they have been in place for almost 2 years now. If you have a competent custom/stereo guy, this is a quick win that I would very highly recommend.

    DRLs:
    [​IMG]

    We attempted to tackle the shortcomings of the Alpine / 2.5 stock sound system by replacing the front two speakers with higher quality/louder speakers. I can confidently say that I notice zero difference whatsoever here. We then tried to improve the workability of the head unit by junking the Alpine and replacing with the best double-din unit we knew of which was the XYZ. We also created a custom iPhone 6 holster to bring it all together. We installed a mic on the steering wheel which I have used exactly 1 time ever. Overall – I’m pleased with the look and feel of the head unit. The integration with the iPhone is far better but that’s mostly because there’s a nice holster for it and by selecting the auxiliary input (from the phone) I can easily play Soundcloud, Spotify, Youtube, etc. It also puts the image on the head unit of the display for the tracks that are playing. So there’s a much more integrated feeling here. The holster is custom so when the iPhone 7 comes out there’s potential that I’ll have to build a new one. But that’s not a big deal and I honestly think the form factor of the iPhone 6 can last for many years. If you are moderately happy with the Alpine and you don’t want to drop $3K, I think this is something you can go either way on.

    New Head Unit:
    [​IMG]

    Nifty iPhone holster (the phone fits snugly and integrates great with the head unit):
    [​IMG]

    Finally. . . And most importantly. . . The creaking, cracking, squeaking, rickety cabin. La Jolla Audio took, literally, everything out of the car to go after this. The doors were opened and completely padded. Dynomat was put on every surface that could be covered. Tape was put throughout the dash to reduce rubbing/creaking. The vehicle was in the shop for 3-days and worked on open till close over this period. When I got the car back, there was some improvement. But after a week, I needed to bring it back in as there was still clicking/cracking. They worked on it another 24 hours. A week after that, I needed to bring it back in as there was still clicking/cracking. They worked on it another 24 hours. There was still creaking and squeaking. They advised me that the issue was a Tesla/warranty issue. I had the owner of the La Jolla Audio go into Tesla and discuss the creaking directly with Tesla. At this stage, La Jolla Audio was breaking even with all the materials/labor they had thrown at this. Not surprisingly, they were “done” with me. Tesla fixed the main problem – but about a month later, the clicking/creaking returned. Bottom line now that it’s been almost 2 years? No overall noticeable improvement. And, in fact, new and even more upsetting creaking has arose. ARGH! So I don’t know if there’s really anything that at least this much investment can do about fixing this nagging problem. And I'm also acutely aware that I'm the one with the super high expectations here. That is. . . Nobody seems to notice any noises the way I do on the vehicle. The vehicle is very much my daily driver (min 30 miles per day) and it now has almost (gulp) 60K miles on it and I still enjoy it just as much as the day I got it.

    I absolutely adore my Roadster! But I love it a lot more when we’re on a smooth road and the top is off so you can’t hear the creaking. The DRLs are super great and not expensive. The new head unit looks great and the iPhone integration is seamless and looks great in the little holster.

    Hope this helps! And if there’s any revolutionary recommendations from the forum on what folks have done to eliminate the rattles, I’m all ears.
     
    • Helpful x 1
  2. BartJ

    BartJ Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2014
    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    Belgium
    I hate the creaking as well - but I just turn up that volume - and have fun !
     
  3. wiztecy

    wiztecy Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Messages:
    2,721
    Location:
    Santa Cruz, California, United States
    For my Roadster, the creaks occur when the body flexes and typically comes from my hard-top. All the rest are rattles that come from my console or from the dash rubbing against the window. The creaks / rattles get worse as the temps drop and appear to go away when temps rise. Odd but I guess it fills in the gap just right where the rubbing occurs...

    What area is the creak coming from?
     
  4. MLAUTO

    MLAUTO Member

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2014
    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    SW Florida
    Unfortunately, all the trim panels in the Roadster have push clips holding them on in at least one spot. That means very little tension holding two pieces of plastic together. Any flexing and you get squeaks. While you can insulate the underside of the main dash panel against the body (which is bolted down), the seams between the vertical surfaces (vents, radio, airbag and instrument cluster) are visible, and any padding between them enlarges the gap, making it look like sh**. Bending the clips for more tension results in broken trim parts when you need to remove them. So there is not a lot you can do other than using the comfort tire pressures and setting the shocks to soft if you have the adjustable suspension.
     
    • Like x 1
  5. hcsharp

    hcsharp Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2011
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    2,537
    Location:
    Vermont
    I believe there's a lot you can do to make the Roadster quieter. I achieved some success and others have, too. You need to search the forum for the threads on how to do this. @dhrivnak is one of the best experts on soundproofing a Roadster.

    As for the sound system, I believe @wiztecy recently found some replacement speakers that made a big difference. Look for his recent thread on this.
     
  6. dhrivnak

    dhrivnak Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2011
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    2,150
    Location:
    NE Tennessee
    HCSharp is right in that there is hope. Many of those plastic trim pieces can be covered with adhesive felt on the back side. This greatly reduces squeaks. Then I covered nearly the entire tub with Dynamat under the carpet. It takes time but does make it better.
     
    • Like x 1
  7. heychubs

    heychubs Member

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2014
    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    San Jose, CA
    That's a nice holster for the iPhone 6. Would your stereo guy be willing to make another one? If so, what do you think would be the cost on it?
     
  8. JohnnyLounge21

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    74
    Location:
    San Diego, CA, United States
    I'm not sure on the holster as far as cost straight away. But it's been really a nice thing. When the phone is in there, it really looks like it belongs there and fits super snugly. In order to really know you'd need to be here in SoCal and go see him. Feel free to use the image to get someone to copy it! Can't be more than $500 to get everything wired/set up, I'm guessing. . .
     
  9. JohnGarziglia

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Messages:
    119
    Location:
    Reston, Virginia
    Take a look at this thread from about three years ago: Squeaks, Rattles and Sound-Deadening

    One update: I had the most annoying noise which I would feel in the steering wheel every bump I went over. Turned out it was the connection for the trip odometer reset which was hitting the bottom cowling under the steering wheel. It is fixing little things like this that make a big difference. Anything that can possibly move, including all electrical connectors, either tie down or wrap in pipe insulation. There are many electrical connectors under the dash or in the spaces behind the front wheel wells that are candidates for being wrapped with pipe insulation.

    I still have creaking on the left behind the driver's seat. For now, I ignore it.
     
  10. JohnnyLounge21

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2012
    Messages:
    74
    Location:
    San Diego, CA, United States
    Yes! Your write up from years ago was my inspiration! You can even see that I replied to it right away when you posted it way-back-when. Thanks for that write up! And for the steering wheel tip too.
     

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