when the speed is slow , I can get the noise if i accelerate and deaccelerate . Here is the video.
is it normal? did you roadster have it?
or anyway to fix it?
is it normal? did you roadster have it?
or anyway to fix it?
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is it normal for the clunk noise from rear when accelerating/deaccelerating
- Thread starter xiaoteshushu
- Start date
I had same issue when took delivery of the car. It's the Bolt that is holding or coupling the transmission to the chassis as Carl mentioned but didn't seem like it was that bolt as it was completely fastened. Few other people mentioned it's the coupling or bearings inside the motor that can be rebuilt but I wouldn't go that far.
Others also expect it's the inverter and drive transmissions switching back and forth when you push and release the accelerator at low speeds like under 5mph; It does the same thing at high speeds too its just your motor is winding and the click is much more faint at those speeds so it seems like you don't hear it when you are driving fast.
I placed a piece of Dynamat against the metal frame the motor is fastened too; this is where the click noise sound is coming from and made it "MUCH" better.
New Roadster owner - click noise
New Roadster owner - click noise
Others also expect it's the inverter and drive transmissions switching back and forth when you push and release the accelerator at low speeds like under 5mph; It does the same thing at high speeds too its just your motor is winding and the click is much more faint at those speeds so it seems like you don't hear it when you are driving fast.
I placed a piece of Dynamat against the metal frame the motor is fastened too; this is where the click noise sound is coming from and made it "MUCH" better.
New Roadster owner - click noise
New Roadster owner - click noise
My 2011 2.5 base. I'm not aware of a clunk in mine, but I listen from the inside of the cockpit and not while standing below while she is on an automotive lift.
When I am parked on a grade and release my handbrake I am aware of a clunk as the car backs up and hits the transmission lock out while in PARK, but that is something else and is normal and is not specific to just this vehicle.
When I am parked on a grade and release my handbrake I am aware of a clunk as the car backs up and hits the transmission lock out while in PARK, but that is something else and is normal and is not specific to just this vehicle.
Gabner
Member
I may be experiencing the same noise. It's a delayed clunk, maybe 1/2 second after accelerating or decelerating. Sounds a little like a relay.
I heard for the first time a few days ago however today I couldn't hear it at all.
Hey Jason, I think you saying it's a normal sound? Should I check the bolt you have a picture of?
Carl mentioned? Is there
bigger writeup on this?
Thank you.
I heard for the first time a few days ago however today I couldn't hear it at all.
Hey Jason, I think you saying it's a normal sound? Should I check the bolt you have a picture of?
Carl mentioned? Is there
bigger writeup on this?
Thank you.
from 2011 new car - new owner #1425
Clunk noise from behind when accelerating/deaccelerating
now that I see you moving the wheels back and forth on the lift it's definitely the gears inside the motor hitting back and forth; I have the same issue.
It's really not an issue but at the same time it's really not normal for a transmission or motor to do that; but considering other users experience the same issues you should be fine. Just put a little Dynamat on the metal piece I showed you above it will dampen the sound a lot once the belly panel is put back on and re-assembled.
If you drive your car and accelerate and your car shifts to one side and when you slow down regen and it shifts to the other side then you have ripped, jigged, or cracked gears whatever the term is in your motor. If you don't experience this issue your motor is fine.
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Gabner
Member
My clunk went away again. It wasn't there before, it was there for a couple days, now it's gone again.
Is your klunk also delayed by about a half a second after transitioning between acceleration and regenerative braking?
Is your klunk also delayed by about a half a second after transitioning between acceleration and regenerative braking?
It is absolutely normal, the slack in the transmission is spectacular.
Fix: transition from drive to regen gently.
You can get the same by pushing the car back/forward on flat ground with handbrake off and in park.
GUYS I fixed mine, its easy I have a 2014 model S with that annoying clinking/clunking I'll bet you don't need any parts either.
It has over 100k miles. here is step by step process: 1 jacjk up and remove rear wheel 2 remove the axel nut turn to the left both sides I think it is a 32mm socket 3 Remove safety washer 3 inspect the spline if it is rusty clean it out with a air nozzle, stick a rag on the end of a screw driver clean out the spline 4 push the end of the axel in toward the center of the car ( it should move in 1/2'' to 3/4'') if it pushes back devise something to hold it in or get a helper. 5 get the best high temp. lithium grease you can find and pack the spline area full of this. 6 put new washers and nut on while holding the axel in untill the nut pushes the washer against the hub, tighten the nut to 150'# 7 wipe off excess grease 8 replace wheel torque lug nuts to 135'# Repeat on the other side. Please check torque specs for your car. It may clunk one or two times then: SILENCE
It has over 100k miles. here is step by step process: 1 jacjk up and remove rear wheel 2 remove the axel nut turn to the left both sides I think it is a 32mm socket 3 Remove safety washer 3 inspect the spline if it is rusty clean it out with a air nozzle, stick a rag on the end of a screw driver clean out the spline 4 push the end of the axel in toward the center of the car ( it should move in 1/2'' to 3/4'') if it pushes back devise something to hold it in or get a helper. 5 get the best high temp. lithium grease you can find and pack the spline area full of this. 6 put new washers and nut on while holding the axel in untill the nut pushes the washer against the hub, tighten the nut to 150'# 7 wipe off excess grease 8 replace wheel torque lug nuts to 135'# Repeat on the other side. Please check torque specs for your car. It may clunk one or two times then: SILENCE
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If this above does the trick for you please let everyone know, some people have bought a new center sections thinking it was bad $$$$$ try this first. Grease, nuts and washers should be less than $20 and about an hour or so on each side. If you are in or near Portland Or Ill be glad to do it for you.
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