Is LR worth an extra 6k?

[snikt]

Don't forget, The SR+ is lighter by about 400 lbs. if I remember correctly. It shows in how the car handles.

It all depends on what you want. When I ordered mine in June it was a $10,000 jump. I'd have to give it some thought at $6K. But, the SR+ suits my needs perfectly. YMMV.

The SR+ is going to be LFP only now though which is a lot heavier, I think the difference between SR+ LFP and LR NCA is much closer now

 

[shamoo]

I also live in New England - a very rural part of New England - and I have to strongly disagree with you. I've owned two AWD Jeep Grand Cherokees that both managed to dance their way around multi-car pile ups in snow and ice. I also owned a full time AWD Eagle Talon sports car that never let me down in snow and ice. AWD definitely gives you better traction and more accurate steering on snowy/icey roads than RWD cars.

Everyone should realize it is the TIRES that make the difference. Dedicated winter/snow tires is going to make more of a difference than RWD vs. AWD. I primarily drive RWD sports cars (and while I currently live in Southern California, I've lived on the East Coast for 30+ years) and putting snow tires on a RWD sports car will out handle a "normal" AWD car in the snow even if that vehicle has all seasons. I've lost count of the number of trucks/AWD vehicles I've passed in deeper snow (just to get around them) in my RWD sports car on Blizzaks or Dunlop Wintersports.

Of course if you don't even plan to change tires, then all things being equal more drive wheels is better than less.

 

[DiyEvRepair]

Totally worth 6K for AWD and more range.

Keep in mind you'll get much of this money back when you re-sell the car - even if it's going to be in 5 years.

 

[Rice&Curry]

I am in agreement, unless you want to use the car only for city commute LR is the way to go. Battery upgrade is not an option later on ( at least currently), but range anxiety is permanent, hence my vote is LR.

 

[hcdavis3]

You might be surprised to see how much LR is on resale or trade. Totally worth it.

 

[texas_star_TM3]

yes. no such thing as "too much range" in today's EV market.

you can comfortably do routes with the LR where the SR+ would struggle badly... especially here in Texas

 

[hellocar]

I’ve rented a SR and also a LR RWD; my LR AWD is way more fun to drive!

 

[Kevy Baby]

Not necessarily. If you search Tesla's existing inventory, there are over 80 new SR+ posted online right now.

And every one of them has FSD. I wonder if you could have them remove it?

 

[Rick Owings]

Just placed an order for Standard Range Plus.
But with the recent price increase of SR+, Long Range costs only 6K more, instead of 8K.

Should I cancel it and order LR instead?

If affordable, opt for the greater milage. we came from a 2019 Chevy Bolt at 238 Mi to the Model 3 LR. We chose a Tesla for the recharge network, technology, motor and downloads that keep you model current.

 

[CapeOne]

And every one of them has FSD. I wonder if you could have them remove it?

The current car market is a bit nuts but historically, Tesla has been willing to remove FSD from existing inventory cars.

 

[tm1v2]

And every one of them has FSD. I wonder if you could have them remove it?

Yes, Tesla sales reps can remove FSD when assigning an inventory car to an existing order. They did that for my M3P order when I spotted an inventory car I wanted, which was a perfect match aside from FSD.

Now if you start off your order using the inventory website, and picking a car from there, I don't know what the options are at that point. My guess is you could still call Tesla sales and have them remove FSD, but it might be safer to order through a sales person in the first place.

 

[Zythryn]

The original question is completely subjective.
In my case, if I were buying today, I would buy the lesser range and use the balance to buy TSLA.

Nobody can answer that question for you without knowing more details.
Such as, how much of a stretch is the extra cost for you?
Is it your household‘s only vehicle.
What are your driving patterns?

These are mainly questions for you to consider. The answers may lead you to the answer for your original question.

 

[tm1v2]

In my case, if I were buying today, I would buy the lesser range and use the balance to buy TSLA.

I've bought two Tesla cars so far. Each time I should have put the money into TSLA instead.

I don't know when I'll learn my lesson.

 

[Willy’sEV]

Totally worth 6K for AWD and more range.

Keep in mind you'll get much of this money back when you re-sell the car - even if it's going to be in 5 years.

We have no way of knowing what used car prices will be in 5 years.
You cannot gauge prices in 5 years by what is happening in the used car market today.

 

[whiskeylover]

We have no way of knowing what used car prices will be in 5 years.
You cannot gauge prices in 5 years by what is happening in the used car market today.

Exactly. What's happening now is an anomaly because of the pandemic. There is no way to know if this continues 5 years from now.

 

[Wray]

If it's a matter of money don't buy FSD, AWD is a real benefit today not 10 years from now. I have FSD, I wouldn't buy it again. It's worthless. Until they get to Level 4, and I don't think that's possible with the current sensor suite but lets assume that it is, there is no point in having FSD. Level 2 FSD is more work than just driving the car yourself. With Level 2 you have to be watching the road, just as you do when driving the car yourself plus you have to be monitoring the cars behavior because it frequently does something scary. You have to keep your hands on the steering wheel and give it a little bit of torque but not too much because if you attempt to correct the car FSD disengages. As for your foot, when you drive yourself you just keep your foot on the accelerator, with FSD is engaged where do you put your foot?, it doesn't like it if you are using the accelerator.

Youre right, I only have the EAP, so I shouldn't/can't speak about FSD.
I meant it more as a "you'll have 6k to spend on different things".

To your question about the foot.. on the highway I usually just put my right foot on the floor (it's real comfy for me, but then again I'm really short).
I also noticed that I trust my EAP way too much...

Back to the topic, OP if you've decided to order a SR or LR, please tell us what the deciding factor was!

 

[DiyEvRepair]

We have no way of knowing what used car prices will be in 5 years.
You cannot gauge prices in 5 years by what is happening in the used car market today.

Surely a long range awd will be worth considerably more than rwd with less range. Especially after degradation. It will be easier to sell too. Doesn’t matter what used car market will be like.

 

[OrthoSurg]

Just placed an order for Standard Range Plus.
But with the recent price increase of SR+, Long Range costs only 6K more, instead of 8K.

Should I cancel it and order LR instead?

During the summer my SR Model 3 was enough, never had any problem.
During winter I had to charge before arriving at the ski station and after. Ask yourself if paying 6k extra is worth 30 mins of your time going back from a ski trip.
When I ordered my Model Y, the Sar version disappeared from the configurator on the Sunday, and I ordered on Monday. Tesla made the choice for me so now I have a LR AWD Model Y. CAD25k more but easier for road trips, faster charging for longer, less charging for ski trips. Not necessary but really useful.

What I did was finance my Model Y, put the value in TSLA stock and the extra 25k paid itself last month.

 

[ODWms]

I definitely agree the LR is worth the extra $6k. Chances are you’ll regain at least some of that price difference at resale time, and you’ll have benefitted from all the convenience and amenities until then.

 

[Mattopotamus]

Let range be the only factor when considering the SR+ and LR. When it was an $8K difference it was an easier decision if you did not need the range. As that gap closes, things like premium audio and AWD start to creep into play.