Is my Model Y Performance normal?

[TomServo]

I have a PMY ordered to replace our 2020 LR AWD with PB. The first mod will replace the 21" Uberturbine totes/wheels with some 18s TSportLine is now offering. They will solve the vast majority of the problems folks experience with the 21" uber low profile tires/wheels. I'll keep the 21s for fun should the need arise, but as our DD in IL with FOUR seasons and roads that would make Afghanistan proud I'm looking forward to seeing how the PMY responds to a less aggressive tire/wheel combo. I will order these tires/wheels: TSS 18" Tesla Model Y Wheel and Tire Package (Set of 4) and YES THEY FIT a PMY to include LOAD RANGE. I expect to gain about 20 miles back of the 27 the LR has over the P.

 

[mswlogo]

I have a PMY ordered to replace our 2020 LR AWD with PB. The first mod will replace the 21" Uberturbine totes/wheels with some 18s TSportLine is now offering. They will solve the vast majority of the problems folks experience with the 21" uber low profile tires/wheels. I'll keep the 21s for fun should the need arise, but as our DD in IL with FOUR seasons and roads that would make Afghanistan proud I'm looking forward to seeing how the PMY responds to a less aggressive tire/wheel combo. I will order these tires/wheels: TSS 18" Tesla Model Y Wheel and Tire Package (Set of 4) and YES THEY FIT a PMY to include LOAD RANGE. I expect to gain about 20 miles back of the 27 the LR has over the P.

If I have my math right it will only take 450,000 miles to break even

Rough calculation

20 miles * 300 wh/mi = 6kwh
6 KWh * $0.30 / kwh = ~$2.00

$3000 (wheels/tires) / $2 = 1500 full charges

Full Charge is 300 miles (to save 20 miles or $2.00)

300 miles * 1500 charges = 450,000 miles

Now if you sell the 21’s for $3,000 you start saving immediately.

 

[Msicario]

Wait, what? Are you using navigation for the trip? I have never charged to 100% while on the road. I think I charged to 95% once, and only because I got tied up in a restaurant longer than expected and just let it go. I just charge up to what the car says to do to get to the my destination (and occasionally add maybe 5% more) and hit the road. It seems like there are plenty of SC's on the routes from CA to AZ (according to supercharge.info).

Longest distance between SC’s are from Indio to the state line and from there to Buckeye; from there to the West Valley; Gilbert, Chandler there are none unless your going to Scottsdale

 

[DanDi58]

Longest distance between SC’s are from Indio to the state line and from there to Buckeye; from there to the West Valley; Gilbert, Chandler there are none unless your going to Scottsdale

You can always buy a CCS adapter and then you can fast charge anywhere - EA, Chargepoint, EVgo, etc. And they are putting SC's in Tempe and Mesa.

 

[Msicario]

You can always buy a CCS adapter and then you can fast charge anywhere - EA, Chargepoint, EVgo, etc. And they are putting SC's in Tempe and Mesa.

Sounds good, because plugging in at my daughters house 110V is torture 3-4 mi. per hour

 

[tm1v2]

I’m glad your able to get those crazy insane numbers.. I too love to drive fast, but was not able to come close to that
There has to be something wrong; I being perfectly honest; I currently have 4700 miles and are not able to enjoy it like you do. Did you replace the 21’ wheels? I’m starting to think; Maybe the front and rear spoilers?
Maybe someone else can share their experience.

@Msicario I'd be surprised if those spoilers didn't hurt efficiency at high speeds.

I'm not saying you need to ditch them, but if maximum efficiency is important to you, it's probably worth taking them off and seeing if you get a consistent, measurable efficiency improvement.

 

[Whiskeypapa]

If I have my math right it will only take 450,000 miles to break even

Rough calculation

20 miles * 300 wh/mi = 6kwh
6 KWh * $0.30 / kwh = ~$2.00

$3000 (wheels/tires) / $2 = 1500 full charges

Full Charge is 300 miles (to save 20 miles or $2.00)

300 miles * 1500 charges = 450,000 miles

Now if you sell the 21’s for $3,000 you start saving immediately.

I bought a set of "gently used" Geminis w/4k miles on OEM Contis, added TPMS and rebalanced for $1,500. That cuts the break-even mileage in half. Also, you'll save hundreds on each set of tires on the 19" instead of 21". That alone probably saves more than the efficiency gain. Now, if only I can get the car delivered to put all this to use!

 

[Duke846]

Hi everyone.
Sorry, this is my first post so I'm not sure if this is the right section for this or not.
I would also like to preempt this by saying that I really like this car (it is my first Tesla) and I am not here to complain about it.
I am just trying to figure out if my 2022 Model Y Performance is normal or a lemon because Tesla keeps telling me that it's within spec.
I believe range is a ridiculous problem with my car.
If anyone has a solution or any insight, I would greatly appreciate it.

First off, I have charged about 1,134 kwh including the charge that the car came with (80% to 20%). I calculated all of this through the Tesla app under Charge stats.
However, in the Trips section in the car on the screen, it states I have only used about 877 kwh.
So, 257 kwh have just disappeared that I have paid for since I mostly only supercharge.

Secondly, as of the writing of this post, I have driven 2,915 miles (Car is two months old in three days).
So according to Tesla, the car should be getting around 247 wh/mi. I calculated this by taking the 75 kwh battery and dividing it by the 303 mile range which leads to 247 wh/mi. I understand that this figure is unrealistic just as with any of my previous gas cars' mpg. The second time I took my car in, the Tesla tech stated that the car is officially rated at 265 wh/mi so we'll just use that number instead.
877 kwh/0.265 wh = 3,309 miles I should have driven according to trip information.
In reality, since I have charged 1,134 kwh/0.265 wh = 4,279 miles I should have driven.
So, 1,364 miles are missing. Yes, this number is again unrealistic but the point is that energy or miles, however you want to view it, are disappearing.
If my math is wrong, please correct me. I am, by no means, a math person.

Some examples:
Charge to 90%, drive to 13% but only drove 101 miles. This time was entirely on local, flat streets.
Charge to 90%, drive to 12% but only get 138 miles.
Charge to 90%, drive to 21% but only get 163 miles.
Charge to 90%, drive to 26% but only get 131 miles.
Yes, I know I shouldn't go below 20% but often times, battery just disappears. For instance, for the second example, I left the car at 31% in my garage. 36 hours later, get in and it's down to 21% when the garage was at 77 degrees, sentry mode is off, and I actually clicked power off car.

Third, the car often displays under Current Trip info in the Trips tab on the screen in the car, that I am consuming on average 350-515 wh/mi. However, I have seen this number go as high as 1,700 wh/mi, often times, the car will start around 700-1,000 wh/mi and setting around 350-515 wh/mi.
I drive, almost exclusively, in chill mode. I've only ever been in performance mode to show people the acceleration and for very short distances. I do not really accelerate and typically stay within speed limits. If my AC is on, it is fairly low and if my music is even on (which mot of the time it isn't), it is also low.
I am not towing anything or have anything heavy in my car.
Sentry mode is always on (except at home) and cabin overheat protection is also on. However, the temperatures where I live have been around 60-80 degrees for almost the entire time from start of ownership.
There has been one time where I literally watched the battery percentage tick down 87% to 86% to 85% in what feels like every second (I'm sure it was closer to every 5-10 seconds) until I stopped and restarted to car.
After the last time I took my car in, they said the battery was at 96.9% capacity. After they checked the health of the battery and proclaimed the car fine and had no alerts, there are rarely times when the car performs as what I assume is intended. I picked it up and drove it to my next location like how I always drive and I was getting 199 wh/mi and got 40 miles out of 10% (I figure roughly 30 miles for every 10%) of battery usage which seemed amazing. But again, this kind of mileage only happens maybe one out of every 20 drives.

Other issues with the car to maybe help with diagnosing:
-High whining sound that sounds like a muffled dental drill you hear inside the cabin (I think it comes from the passenger side, my wife thinks driver side)
-Screen gets ridiculously hot at times
-Screen also does not self-adjust brightness at times
-Screen will also randomly change settings occasionally (like if something were on, it's switched to off)
-Data connection to screen occasionally cuts out and states things like "Theater currently unavailable. Check your internet connection and try again", "Routing with no traffic data", etc etc.
-Car/screen flipped out once saying parking brake was on, flat tire sensor going off, seatbelt wasn't on, and all cameras not working when signaling to turn all at the same time with those issue lights popping in and out rapidly.
-Sentry mode deletes random clips
-For about 2 weeks, the car wasn't really starting when I opened the door. Would have to tap on blank/dark screen to get it to wake up
-For about 2 (different) weeks, car would not precondition when directing it to a supercharger and would only precondition when charging
-Occasionally, doing one click to bring window up or down will result in window stopping and reversing about 3/5s of the way down
-Passenger side rear window has developed a loud click when closing completely
-AC sounds like a kid loudly creating condensation/steam on a window occasionally
-There was a random bolt, nut, and washer in one of the side trunk pockets after I picked up the car (Tesla tech said it's probably nothing)
-Occasional thump from driver side front wheel well usually when turning right going up a ramp (unrelated to brake pedal engaging)

Service Appointments:
1st time: Told I was a new Tesla owner so just let the car get used to you, basically was told I was being too sensitive
2nd time: Tesla worker could not understand the math I posted or even the average wh/mi a Model Y should get. When I tried to point out the example, with pictures, showing 90% to 13% and only getting 101 miles, he just ended the service appointment claiming battery retention and capacity are fine so I don't have a problem.
3rd time: Coming up in three weeks.

So my questions:
1. Have any others noticed extra charging that's not accounted for in your trip information?
2. What is everyone's average wh/mi? I understand everyone drives differently but just trying to get a ballpark figure
3. How many miles are others with a Model Y Performance able to travel from 90% to 20% on a single charge?
4. Is my car normal or just a lemon
5. Anyone have any clue as to what's going on?

I would really like to get my car fixed. Please help, I really am at my wit's end.
Thank you for reading my really long post.

Your car is normal.

 

[Msicario]

I bought a set of "gently used" Geminis w/4k miles on OEM Contis, added TPMS and rebalanced for $1,500. That cuts the break-even mileage in half. Also, you'll save hundreds on each set of tires on the 19" instead of 21". That alone probably saves more than the efficiency gain. Now, if only I can get the car delivered to put all this to use!

I was thinking of doing that; Buying a set of 19’ wheels and tires; I believe that will make a big difference and remove the front spoiler

 

[WhiteAdobo]

What does your mileage say for 90% charge. I have a 22 MYP and it was originally at 272 then down to 267 now for the past week its 261. I only have 2700 mileage but it’s strange.

Not sure if the software calculates a lower number based on if you have COP on or not.

I wish the Tesla app went back to telling you your mileage for a charge % rather then waiting until it’s charged to find out.

 

[doc5339]

Hi everyone.
Sorry, this is my first post so I'm not sure if this is the right section for this or not.
I would also like to preempt this by saying that I really like this car (it is my first Tesla) and I am not here to complain about it.
I am just trying to figure out if my 2022 Model Y Performance is normal or a lemon because Tesla keeps telling me that it's within spec.
I believe range is a ridiculous problem with my car.
If anyone has a solution or any insight, I would greatly appreciate it.

First off, I have charged about 1,134 kwh including the charge that the car came with (80% to 20%). I calculated all of this through the Tesla app under Charge stats.
However, in the Trips section in the car on the screen, it states I have only used about 877 kwh.
So, 257 kwh have just disappeared that I have paid for since I mostly only supercharge.

Secondly, as of the writing of this post, I have driven 2,915 miles (Car is two months old in three days).
So according to Tesla, the car should be getting around 247 wh/mi. I calculated this by taking the 75 kwh battery and dividing it by the 303 mile range which leads to 247 wh/mi. I understand that this figure is unrealistic just as with any of my previous gas cars' mpg. The second time I took my car in, the Tesla tech stated that the car is officially rated at 265 wh/mi so we'll just use that number instead.
877 kwh/0.265 wh = 3,309 miles I should have driven according to trip information.
In reality, since I have charged 1,134 kwh/0.265 wh = 4,279 miles I should have driven.
So, 1,364 miles are missing. Yes, this number is again unrealistic but the point is that energy or miles, however you want to view it, are disappearing.
If my math is wrong, please correct me. I am, by no means, a math person.

Some examples:
Charge to 90%, drive to 13% but only drove 101 miles. This time was entirely on local, flat streets.
Charge to 90%, drive to 12% but only get 138 miles.
Charge to 90%, drive to 21% but only get 163 miles.
Charge to 90%, drive to 26% but only get 131 miles.
Yes, I know I shouldn't go below 20% but often times, battery just disappears. For instance, for the second example, I left the car at 31% in my garage. 36 hours later, get in and it's down to 21% when the garage was at 77 degrees, sentry mode is off, and I actually clicked power off car.

Third, the car often displays under Current Trip info in the Trips tab on the screen in the car, that I am consuming on average 350-515 wh/mi. However, I have seen this number go as high as 1,700 wh/mi, often times, the car will start around 700-1,000 wh/mi and setting around 350-515 wh/mi.
I drive, almost exclusively, in chill mode. I've only ever been in performance mode to show people the acceleration and for very short distances. I do not really accelerate and typically stay within speed limits. If my AC is on, it is fairly low and if my music is even on (which mot of the time it isn't), it is also low.
I am not towing anything or have anything heavy in my car.
Sentry mode is always on (except at home) and cabin overheat protection is also on. However, the temperatures where I live have been around 60-80 degrees for almost the entire time from start of ownership.
There has been one time where I literally watched the battery percentage tick down 87% to 86% to 85% in what feels like every second (I'm sure it was closer to every 5-10 seconds) until I stopped and restarted to car.
After the last time I took my car in, they said the battery was at 96.9% capacity. After they checked the health of the battery and proclaimed the car fine and had no alerts, there are rarely times when the car performs as what I assume is intended. I picked it up and drove it to my next location like how I always drive and I was getting 199 wh/mi and got 40 miles out of 10% (I figure roughly 30 miles for every 10%) of battery usage which seemed amazing. But again, this kind of mileage only happens maybe one out of every 20 drives.

Other issues with the car to maybe help with diagnosing:
-High whining sound that sounds like a muffled dental drill you hear inside the cabin (I think it comes from the passenger side, my wife thinks driver side)
-Screen gets ridiculously hot at times
-Screen also does not self-adjust brightness at times
-Screen will also randomly change settings occasionally (like if something were on, it's switched to off)
-Data connection to screen occasionally cuts out and states things like "Theater currently unavailable. Check your internet connection and try again", "Routing with no traffic data", etc etc.
-Car/screen flipped out once saying parking brake was on, flat tire sensor going off, seatbelt wasn't on, and all cameras not working when signaling to turn all at the same time with those issue lights popping in and out rapidly.
-Sentry mode deletes random clips
-For about 2 weeks, the car wasn't really starting when I opened the door. Would have to tap on blank/dark screen to get it to wake up
-For about 2 (different) weeks, car would not precondition when directing it to a supercharger and would only precondition when charging
-Occasionally, doing one click to bring window up or down will result in window stopping and reversing about 3/5s of the way down
-Passenger side rear window has developed a loud click when closing completely
-AC sounds like a kid loudly creating condensation/steam on a window occasionally
-There was a random bolt, nut, and washer in one of the side trunk pockets after I picked up the car (Tesla tech said it's probably nothing)
-Occasional thump from driver side front wheel well usually when turning right going up a ramp (unrelated to brake pedal engaging)

Service Appointments:
1st time: Told I was a new Tesla owner so just let the car get used to you, basically was told I was being too sensitive
2nd time: Tesla worker could not understand the math I posted or even the average wh/mi a Model Y should get. When I tried to point out the example, with pictures, showing 90% to 13% and only getting 101 miles, he just ended the service appointment claiming battery retention and capacity are fine so I don't have a problem.
3rd time: Coming up in three weeks.

So my questions:
1. Have any others noticed extra charging that's not accounted for in your trip information?
2. What is everyone's average wh/mi? I understand everyone drives differently but just trying to get a ballpark figure
3. How many miles are others with a Model Y Performance able to travel from 90% to 20% on a single charge?
4. Is my car normal or just a lemon
5. Anyone have any clue as to what's going on?

I would really like to get my car fixed. Please help, I really am at my wit's end.
Thank you for reading my really long post.

Regarding Supercharging, there are often significant charging loses due to cooling fans/pumps, climate control, etc. Simply put kWh you pay for are not all getting stored in the battery pack; you always loose some energy in transmission. This is really easy to measure when using an Electrify America DC Fast Charger and seeing the kWh delivered on the stall's screen vs the kWh gained on the EV's screen.

 

[jcanoe]

What does your mileage say for 90% charge. I have a 22 MYP and it was originally at 272 then down to 267 now for the past week its 261. I only have 2700 mileage but it’s strange.

Not sure if the software calculates a lower number based on if you have COP on or not.

I wish the Tesla app went back to telling you your mileage for a charge % rather then waiting until it’s charged to find out.

If you always keep the Tesla battery pack charged within a narrow range the battery management system software never learns the upper and lower range of the battery. Charge to 95% or 100% and then drive (even if it takes a week) until the battery state of charge (SOC) is below 20%, before charging. Repeat this charging process several times and the Tesla vehicle may show an increased range (perhaps +5% more) when charged to 100%.

Also, if you leave Sentry mode on all the time you are wasting energy (6 to 7% of the battery charge over 24 hours) and the Tesla vehicle never enters sleep mode. When in sleep mode the Tesla vehicle disconnects the high voltage battery from the Tesla vehicle. Periodically, when in sleep mode, the Tesla BMS will measure the open cell voltage (OCV) of the cells within the battery. This takes several hours. This is an important part of the BMS learning the SOC of the battery pack. Set Sentry mode to be off at your home location (Home location is set in the Navigation system) so that the Tesla vehicle can enter sleep mode.

 

[WhiteAdobo]

If you always keep the Tesla battery pack charged within a narrow range the battery management system software never learns the upper and lower range of the battery. Charge to 95% or 100% and then drive (even if it takes a week) until the battery state of charge (SOC) is below 20%, before charging. Repeat this charging process several times and the Tesla vehicle may show an increased range (perhaps +5% more) when charged to 100%.

Also, if you leave Sentry mode on all the time you are wasting energy (6 to 7% of the battery charge over 24 hours) and the Tesla vehicle never enters sleep mode. When in sleep mode the Tesla vehicle disconnects the high voltage battery from the Tesla vehicle. Periodically, when in sleep mode, the Tesla BMS will measure the open cell voltage (OCV) of the cells within the battery. This takes several hours. This is an important part of the BMS learning the SOC of the battery pack. Set Sentry mode to be off at your home location (Home location is set in the Navigation system) so that the Tesla vehicle can enter sleep mode.

That makes perfect sense. I’ll charge it to 100% a couple times and run it to below 20% for a couple charges. Ever since I got it I’ve never charged to 100% always kept it 85-90% daily.

I have only used sentry a handful of times when I think I need it. Not sure if I should keep it on and like you said exclude specific locations.

Also the for COP what is the best practice for that? It gets pretty hot down here in South Florida when I’m running errands parking in the sun.

 

[jcanoe]

That makes perfect sense. I’ll charge it to 100% a couple times and run it to below 20% for a couple charges. Ever since I got it I’ve never charged to 100% always kept it 85-90% daily.

I have only used sentry a handful of times when I think I need it. Not sure if I should keep it on and like you said exclude specific locations.

Also the for COP what is the best practice for that? It gets pretty hot down here in South Florida when I’m running errands parking in the sun.

I have Sentry mode set to turn on except at my home location. COP with the AC set to run can use more than ~6kWh over an 8 hour period, keeps the cabin temperature at or below 105F (note that 105F is not a safe temperature for humans or animals, not sure why COP is included under Safety settings.) The COP fan only mode will not keep the passenger cabin from climbing over 105F, in my experience ~119F for my area seems to be how warm the passenger cabin can get with COP fan only set to on.

For running short errands, i.e. 10 minutes or less I use the Leave On feature of the Climate Control system before exiting. For everything else I rely on preconditioning the passenger cabin via the Tesla app. In my experience it takes 5 to 7 minutes to cool down the passenger cabin.

Have you installed any tint on the windshield, rear glass, side windows and even the glass roof? Tinting is a popular aftermarket upgrade in Florida and other warm, sunny places.

 

[DayTrippin]

I get that, I am an aeronautical engineer. My point in general was my 3 gets far closer to its rated range than my Y does as a %.

I have Sentry mode set to turn on except at my home location. COP with the AC set to run can use more than ~6kWh over an 8 hour period, keeps the cabin temperature at or below 105F (note that 105F is not a safe temperature for humans or animals, not sure why COP is included under Safety settings.) The COP fan only mode will not keep the passenger cabin from climbing over 105F, in my experience ~119F for my area seems to be how warm the passenger cabin can get with COP fan only set to on.

I saw 131F in my 3 just yesterday with COP on but fan only. It was 95F out and a sunny day. No window tint anywhere but I did have a front windshield sunshade in place.

 

[WhiteAdobo]

I have Sentry mode set to turn on except at my home location. COP with the AC set to run can use more than ~6kWh over an 8 hour period, keeps the cabin temperature at or below 105F (note that 105F is not a safe temperature for humans or animals, not sure why COP is included under Safety settings.) The COP fan only mode will not keep the passenger cabin from climbing over 105F, in my experience ~119F for my area seems to be how warm the passenger cabin can get with COP fan only set to on.

For running short errands, i.e. 10 minutes or less I use the Leave On feature of the Climate Control system before exiting. For everything else I rely on preconditioning the passenger cabin via the Tesla app. In my experience it takes 5 to 7 minutes to cool down the passenger cabin.

Have you installed any tint on the windshield, rear glass, side windows and even the glass roof? Tinting is a popular aftermarket upgrade in Florida and other warm, sunny places.

Thanks for the response. I’ll try just the fan and precondition 5 minutes prior to getting in the vehicle. I’ll also try the Leave On feature for short errands.

I do have ceramic all around. 50% windshield, 15% Fronts, 5% Back of vehicle, and 30% on the roof.

I got the roof a couple weeks after so I could do more research and noticed it helps a little. Not nearly as much as the rest of the windows though.

 

[jcanoe]

Thanks for the response. I’ll try just the fan and precondition 5 minutes prior to getting in the vehicle. I’ll also try the Leave On feature for short errands.

I do have ceramic all around. 50% windshield, 15% Fronts, 5% Back of vehicle, and 30% on the roof.

I got the roof a couple weeks after so I could do more research and noticed it helps a little. Not nearly as much as the rest of the windows though.

I don't have any added tint on any of the glass in my Model Y. I use a sunshade for the glass roof (one piece, mesh) I leave the sunshade in place all year long. The sunshade does help, the sun's rays are diffused by the mesh and the top of my head does not feel warm. There are now two-piece sunshades that eliminate most of the sagging issue with the older one piece design (the two piece sunshades have a cross member though.)

 

[DayTrippin]

Thanks for the response. I’ll try just the fan and precondition 5 minutes prior to getting in the vehicle. I’ll also try the Leave On feature for short errands.

I do have ceramic all around. 50% windshield, 15% Fronts, 5% Back of vehicle, and 30% on the roof.

I got the roof a couple weeks after so I could do more research and noticed it helps a little. Not nearly as much as the rest of the windows though.

Keep in mind that all tint really does is slow the rate of energy into the cockpit. Given enough time it will heat soak to the same level as being untinted.

You don't have to go to a super dark tint to get good heat rejection as well. While on paper a going from 80-90% may seem like a lot, in the real world it isn't a huge difference.

I didn't bother tinting the roof. I just went with a good sunshade. Rejected heat better than tinting and far cheaper.

 

[Whtrbt7]

OP mentioned almost exclusively supercharging. If this is the case, wouldn’t battery preconditioning eat up battery life?

 

[jcanoe]

OP mentioned almost exclusively supercharging. If this is the case, wouldn’t battery preconditioning eat up battery life?

You don't have to precondition before using a Supercharger. Preconditioning for Supercharging only happens when you set the Supercharger as the destination in the Tesla vehicle's Navigation system. This can take more than 30 minutes depending on the temperature of the battery. If you live close to a Supercharger you would have to drive in circles waiting for the battery pack to be fully warmed for Supercharging. (The Tesla vehicle won't pecondtiion for Supercharging when the Tesla vehicle is parked.) Otherwise, you can Supercharge but at a lower power, slower rate. Also, you get a reminder on the Tesla screen about preconditioning for maximum Supercharging speed and efficiency.