corduroy
Active Member
Good advice. I need to research the cold weather effects on the battery some more before the cold is upon us here. I should still have enough range to spare, but probably not as much as I was thinking!
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Is slow charging with 110 v outlet bad for your battery?
- Thread starter Wildbill
- Start date
Good advice. I need to research the cold weather effects on the battery some more before the cold is upon us here. I should still have enough range to spare, but probably not as much as I was thinking!
Kichwas
Member
I have a 54 mile commute roundtrip (or rather maps just told me it would be 27 miles to drive from my chair in the office to my front door at home... 
).
I am on solar power (Tesla/mySolarCity) with a single power wall (i think that stores 15kw?). It tends to go from 100% to 20% overnight on a typical night.
Right this second my solar is generating 5.8kw/hour and that is close to peak - ranging +/- 1kw/h sunshine depending. I typically use 1-2kw/h when home if the HVAC or laundry is off. So I pump a lot back into the grid.
In California. San Francisco Bay Area, so climate is mild hot to mild cold time of uear depending.
My guess is the last 1-3 hours of sunlight will have my car plugged in most days... Closer to the low 2.
Starting to think getting the NEMA 14-50 is just a psychological luxury for my situation.
).I am on solar power (Tesla/mySolarCity) with a single power wall (i think that stores 15kw?). It tends to go from 100% to 20% overnight on a typical night.
Right this second my solar is generating 5.8kw/hour and that is close to peak - ranging +/- 1kw/h sunshine depending. I typically use 1-2kw/h when home if the HVAC or laundry is off. So I pump a lot back into the grid.
In California. San Francisco Bay Area, so climate is mild hot to mild cold time of uear depending.
My guess is the last 1-3 hours of sunlight will have my car plugged in most days... Closer to the low 2.
Starting to think getting the NEMA 14-50 is just a psychological luxury for my situation.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I want to offer you and idea that will help with your heat issue. First hand experience. I bought two rolls of radiant barrier at Home Depot. Its 4 foot wide aluminum foil with pinholes. Cost is about $45-$170 a roll depending on length. I think most people have never heard of this stuff.
You install (I did) this up and down the rafters in your attic. You can use an electric stapler to ease the installation. This stuff reflects the heat that hits the roof and is passed through your roof and into the attic. A friend told me it would help. So I took the gamble. This stuff is amazing. Here in Hawaii my attic temp was 100 nearly all the time (daylight). But after it not only lowered the temp in the attic it also reduced the temp in the second floor bedrooms all day. The fans and A/C didn't have to work as hard to cool the house after dark too. The second floor temp came down 12-15 degrees.
It took me two weekend days to install it by myself. I did the front side of the house attic first (master bedroom and bath) and the back side attic (back two bedrooms) the next day. Even with only half the house completed, I could immediately feel a difference.
Its not hard to install, just awkward. Slide a broom handle into the roll and push it towards the eves as your pull the sheet up and staple it. The trip was balancing on the areas in the attic where there was no floor until I laid a sheet of plywood up there. The payback is immediate. The expense is not so much that if you tear down the house a year from now, the expense would have been worth it for even one year.
Great stuff. Mine has been in my attic now for more than 15 years. I just don't understand why its not more highly promoted by folks talking about energy efficiency. Of all things we can do to help a house, its one of the cheapest and pays back immediately.
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I have a 54 mile commute roundtrip (or rather maps just told me it would be 27 miles to drive from my chair in the office to my front door at home...
I am on solar power (Tesla/mySolarCity) with a single power wall (i think that stores 15kw?). It tends to go from 100% to 20% overnight on a typical night.
Right this second my solar is generating 5.8kw/hour and that is close to peak - ranging +/- 1kw/h sunshine depending. I typically use 1-2kw/h when home if the HVAC or laundry is off. So I pump a lot back into the grid.
In California. San Francisco Bay Area, so climate is mild hot to mild cold time of uear depending.
My guess is the last 1-3 hours of sunlight will have my car plugged in most days... Closer to the low 2.
Starting to thing getting the NEMA 14-50 is just a psychological luxury for my situation.
Sounds to me that you have everything for a perfect EV/Solar home BUT adequate charging for the average EV owner. Say for a minute this is your dream home and you will live there the rest of your life. Are you certain you will never need more than 54 miles round trip?
If you ever decide to sell, your solar and Powerwall will make your home very attractive. But the buyer could likely need more charging than you currently do. One question. Do you think it would be cheaper 5 years from how than it is today? (Everything is cheaper as time goes on, huh?) I'd put that last piece of the puzzle in place if I were you. I'm working on adding Powerwall. Got all the other, like you.
SeanM
Member
Reading the electricians comments, seems you need a good electrician. Your NEMA 14-50 will needs a separate breaker in the breaker box.
If you really want to enjoy the M3 to it's fullest, then get a 14-50. I have installed the 14-50 in my garage & use the charger that came with my M3, works like a charm.
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Kichwas
Member
I am actually researching a second powerwall because my sales lady last October said a tesla car owner would get 1 extra powerwall for free but of course no one today knows what I am talking about and even though they claim she still works there, her phone is a generic computer answer and emails go unresponded to...
As for my commute... 27 miles each way (Hayward to Palo Alto) is already 3-4 HOURS in the car daily...
Unless the region finally gets over local politics after 170+ years since Mexican rule... (ain’t gonna happen) and finally plans regional transit into the roads... I am not likely to accept a longer commute in a megacity of 12+ million with often 2-lane freeways...
But... yeah... that second powerwall sounds nice. I am pretty sure that my car will drain out the first one in the middle of the night and then I will be gaming how much I take from the grid overnight against how much I send to it in mid-day.
As for my commute... 27 miles each way (Hayward to Palo Alto) is already 3-4 HOURS in the car daily...
Unless the region finally gets over local politics after 170+ years since Mexican rule... (ain’t gonna happen) and finally plans regional transit into the roads... I am not likely to accept a longer commute in a megacity of 12+ million with often 2-lane freeways...
But... yeah... that second powerwall sounds nice. I am pretty sure that my car will drain out the first one in the middle of the night and then I will be gaming how much I take from the grid overnight against how much I send to it in mid-day.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
I will probably try and use this for figuring out my house voltage later. This seems more straight forward since it is programmed to fill in the blanks.
Electrical Load Calculations for Residential Panel - Online Load Calculator
Electrical Load Calculations for Residential Panel - Online Load Calculator
The estimate I got for 14-50 was $850 to run it up into the attic and about 35 feet to the carport and down. 6-20 was $650. The electrician didn't seem to think it would be an issue to install the 14-50 on my house. I am still waiting to find out what my amperage loads are from oncor. I will also add that my ground needs to be reconnected since it is connected to the water line which got interrupted with pex after the shower install a while back. I did not check about regrounding the old carport outlet since it seems like upgrading is the best option with new conduit which is included in that price. May still get another quote or two just to make sure the electricians are in agreement.
As far as the amperage loads on my house goes, the window units are 2x13 amps and 2x 10 amps. I do plan on installing a radiant barrier in my attic in the next few months, but will be doing more research on what all is required for it. I have no clue how soon I will need a new roof either, and have no idea when it was last replaced on my home. I read radiant barriers can cause issues with roof warranties, but mine is definitely out of warranty. Not sure if that is something to get replaced before installing that. That is not a major concern right now.
As far as the amperage loads on my house goes, the window units are 2x13 amps and 2x 10 amps. I do plan on installing a radiant barrier in my attic in the next few months, but will be doing more research on what all is required for it. I have no clue how soon I will need a new roof either, and have no idea when it was last replaced on my home. I read radiant barriers can cause issues with roof warranties, but mine is definitely out of warranty. Not sure if that is something to get replaced before installing that. That is not a major concern right now.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Well, that's great news. I suspect the electrician told you that the difference in price between 14-30 and 14-50 is material. Its worth the difference in price. Is it going to be permitted by the county/city?
I hope you don't run all four A/Cs at night. That load is more than 50% of your required load at 80 amps from 100 amp service. If you charge late at night (after everyone is headed to bed and the other lights and stuff are off) you might be able to manage the car charging. Thankfully, yours is a M3 and will not exceed drawing but 32 amps from the 14-50.
I hope you don't run all four A/Cs at night. That load is more than 50% of your required load at 80 amps from 100 amp service. If you charge late at night (after everyone is headed to bed and the other lights and stuff are off) you might be able to manage the car charging. Thankfully, yours is a M3 and will not exceed drawing but 32 amps from the 14-50.
I am still waiting to here from Oncor on my electric usage, but I think the total amps required for the window units are mainly when they turn on. I have never had issues running everything in my house with my dryer, but will probably plan to choose the dryer or charging the EV when that is all installed. I will probably still dial back the charge rate below 32 amps once it is all said and done.
My goal will be to replace the central air unit in the future, but I figured I would wait for a complete upgrade once my gas furnace kicks the bucket, but will play that by ear. It looks like temperatures are dropping below the 70's so hopefully I won't have to worry about running the a/c much for the rest of the year. I forgot to ask about 14-30, but he didn't seem to think there would be too many issues with 14-50 unless I was welding. I just checked 6-20 versus 14-50. Another Tesla owner I talked with used this company since the other quotes he got were much higher.
My goal will be to replace the central air unit in the future, but I figured I would wait for a complete upgrade once my gas furnace kicks the bucket, but will play that by ear. It looks like temperatures are dropping below the 70's so hopefully I won't have to worry about running the a/c much for the rest of the year. I forgot to ask about 14-30, but he didn't seem to think there would be too many issues with 14-50 unless I was welding. I just checked 6-20 versus 14-50. Another Tesla owner I talked with used this company since the other quotes he got were much higher.
rpiotro
Active Member
There is a 20% headroom rule. National electrical code. A 15 amp circuit is limited to 12 amps load. A 20 amp circuit to 15 amps and so on.
You can possibly push that but at your own peril. Would you mind much if your house burned down?
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blackT3$!@
2021 LR Model 3
Thanks. 16amps max for 110v.
So I’ve been using my Tesla wall charger even slower than a 110v plug, charging at the slowest 5a charge rate. I’ll speed it up to 15; don’t want the car’s systems on forever as I trickle charge it daily.
You have a thread that you created already on this topic, along with discussion on "trickle charging' etc here:
Bestest Idealest Battery charging percentage band
I know this has been discussed as nauseum but the general consensus is to keep the charge between 20-80% for lithium-ion. My question is: can someone narrow that down to an even narrower band? In a perfectly ideal scenario, where should I keep the charge state? My Y has 400 miles on it and...
teslamotorsclub.com
blackT3$!@
2021 LR Model 3
I had my Tesla wall charger professionally installed 220v/60amp breaker. The max AC current that my 2021 LR can accept is 48amps which is what is outputed by the charger. It equals about 50 miles per hour charging.
You have a thread that you created already on this topic, along with discussion on "trickle charging' etc here:
Bestest Idealest Battery charging percentage band
I know this has been discussed as nauseum but the general consensus is to keep the charge between 20-80% for lithium-ion. My question is: can someone narrow that down to an even narrower band? In a perfectly ideal scenario, where should I keep the charge state? My Y has 400 miles on it and...
I had a simple question on the charge rate of a 110v charger and didn’t think it fit into that thread.
No, it will not degrading that fast on 110v outlet. I have bought 14-30 extension cable 50ft and 14-30 to 14-50 adapter cable. I do not need to install costly outlet and need to upgrade my panel to 200 amps as same problem as you where panel is for only 100 amps. It approximately $4000 cost to do everything but thanks to extension cable cost only $200 and now it charges 29 mile per hr. I only need to charge fast 2 days a week or when needed to meet my weekly work trip need then I use standard 110v for everyday to keep at 80% charged all the time.
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