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Is switched wire in the yellow one with light grayish/purple stripe?

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As it turns out the Tesla owners guidebook illustration of the fuse locations in box 3 is wrong. I'll post a correction shortly.

I discovered the same thing some time ago. I was hoping they would correct it, but so far my mail asking who I should notify of the issue went unanswered.
Here is the "correction" that I sent Tesla.

FuseBox3Error.png


BTW artsci, fuse box 1 is quite difficult to access, I think they intended it that way. :smile:
 
I discovered the same thing some time ago. I was hoping they would correct it, but so far my mail asking who I should notify of the issue went unanswered.
Here is the "correction" that I sent Tesla.

View attachment 44420

BTW artsci, fuse box 1 is quite difficult to access, I think they intended it that way. :smile:

I sent Tesla an email this am and got a reply within a few hours that they'd send the info to the correct source. It will be interesting to see if they change the manual.

On fuse box 1 I agree -- they don't want us messing with it.

Here's the response I got:

Thank you for contacting Tesla Motors Support in regards to Fuse Box 3. We appreciate your feedback and will escalate this to the proper team. Please feel free to reach out to us anytime via email or 1-877-79TESLA. I've left out the name of the specialist who responded.

Kind Regards,
Technical Support Specialist
45500 Fremont Blvd | Fremont, CA 94538
1-877-79-TESLA | [email protected]
 
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My issues with accessory wiring in the front area of the vehicle is not locating a hot wire to tap into, but finding an appropriate ground connection. There are several black wires in the passenger side kick panel near the fuse panel, but I don't want to put power through them to test for ground in case they are connected to critical circuits (and some appear to be coax type wires which likely are part of the Canbus system, so cannot be tapped).

With an aluminum body, there are few options. Has anyone located a common ground tap, or usable ground wire to tap into in the passenger side kick panel area ? I've already used an add-a-circuit to tap power safely (low current application), but I need an safe ground connection as well...TIA
 
@zwede - While aluminum is conductive, it is a poor conductor, and does not conduct low voltage as well as steel - and the interior body panels / bolts do not seem to be very efficient grounds for accessory circuits, as they won't even light up a 12 volt test light.

did you actually drill into the interior body panels for a ground connection and are speaking from your experience, or are you just stating that aluminum is a conductive metal from what you learned in science class lol??? I'd like to be wrong here, but the test instrument results aren't in my favor so far...
 
I base it on that the negative battery post behind the nose cone is just a stud in the body structure and there's no ground wire on that post to the 12V battery. I use a battery tender hooked to the posts behind the nose cone to keep the 12V topped off and it works fine.
 
That makes sense - thanks for the specifics @zwede...I have a refresh (no nose cone), but I would guess that negative stud is connected to the chassis, and not the body. If so, the cast alloy / titanium frame assembly would definitely act as a ground, but it would not necessarily translate that the body aluminum acting the same. With so much internal wiring, and at least 2 internal fuse panels, I still hope there would be a common ground location somewhere within the internal pass side kick panel. BTW, the door latches are grounded (probably secured to the chassis), but the seat mounts are not (mounted to the body assembly)...Are there any stereo / vehicle electronics aficionados here on the forum who can chime in with an answer (or better yet specific wire / location)???
 
Al is an excellent conductor, that is why it is used in electrical conductors. 8^))

To assume that the chassis is *always* used for the circuit return could cause problems. They may be using wire returns for a given circuit, possibly to derive a useful differential to ground.
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@HankLloydRight - great idea.

@wycolo - I understand that aluminum is a good conductor, and could, theoretically work as a ground. The issue is it seems Tesla did not "ground" the body itself, relative to the fuse panels, as indicated with a voltmeter and a test lamp, so that it doesn't work as a ground for an connected 12 volt circuit which takes power from that (apparently isolated) panel.
 
That is why I said:

To assume that the chassis is *always* used for the circuit return could cause problems. They may be using wire returns for a given circuit, possibly to derive a useful differential to ground FOR SIGNALLING PURPOSES OR SOME SUCH.

(Added for clarity)

WRT tail lights they possibly use this differential voltage to trigger a "tail light out" warning. Thus there is extra wiring in the tail section because of this feature.
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