Care to share what you did, and how you did it? Id love to do same!!
I wish I documented everything, but I never planned to do as much as I did in the end. And for a first timer it took plenty enough time without documenting. In fact we’ve done now almost all the same to a friend’s Model S, which has been interesting comparison between facelift AWD and a prefacelift RWD.
You can find usable instructions piece by piece in this forum and on youtube to tear down specific parts of the car. If you have specific questions let me know.
I’d say the best overall roadnoise effect was from doing wheel wells externally under the liners with dynamat type of material and a closed cell foam which can be easily molded into shape. Easy, but expect spend a couple of hours with each wheel. Also expect to use a lot of brake cleaner to get the grime off metal. There is a lot of bare metal especially in the back. Do careful job to not create places for moisture and dirt to build up.
Second best effect was from doing same treatment to the doors while changing the speakers. Add softer material as well but be careful not to stuff so much that the door panel doesn’t fit back in.
Third best idea was to build a full glass roof heat shield from aluminium paper and same closed cell foam + upholster it with acoustic felt cloth. All that glass reflects sound.
Surprising was that subwoofer sound quality was greatly improved by adding a lot of closed cell foam and a bit of dynamat inside trunk lid (you can’t add much weight here). It has a huge cavity, just tap on the plastic panel ... its a drum. This was relatively easy job, only the removal of trunk lid buzzer was a little tricky and needed extra pair of hands. Wheel well treatment had additional audible improvement to bass tightness.
A pillars were easy, especially after spending dozens of hours already with all types of clips Tesla uses. Might not seem much but I found a few holes in the A pillar which surely leak a bit of sound through the body, so was worth doing. Note to not build anything that blocks airbags.
Dashboard treatment also had good effect on the midbass (and to the quality feel of cabin), especially preventing rattling and also within the dash you’ll find so much empty space for nice resonations. I also used felt tape in bits to treat all clips and most touching surfaces. I got this idea from door panels where they do it at the factory. I was wrapping the dash wood panels anyway, so additional job was less. Can’t say little as I used 5 meters of felt tape mostly in few millimeter bits... felt tape hell.
Least effect IMO was from doing b pillars and floors, but by now they start be a small job to finish off. You can do 80% of floor without removing carpet or seats if you’re having door sills off. I haven’t done trunk as the wheel well treatment pretty much removed rear noise at least from driver (me), and trunk lid fixed subwoofer.
Doing any deadening in AWD frunk is pointless, you can get to meaningful surfaces in the firewall while doing the wheel wells. Middle area of firewall is unreachable without extensive tech dismantling.
A couple of learnings: use good materials which are easy to work with, saving bucks here will cause regrets. I mean, I did use maybe 500 euros on material, but its nothing compared to time spent while working on this project. You’ll need good lighting, I did the dash in a dark garage with phone led flashlight, was a bad idea. Do the project bit by bit but plan enough time and material to finish what you start. Buy spare clips, e.g. blue clips tend to go bad and door clips may not hold after a couple of removals. Vinyl prying tools are necessary.
