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Is there a clean way to tap into Model 3 frunk lights?

I'm looking to do this mod so that the bag/cooler that I leave in the frunk no longer blocks the light, but I will only do it if it can be done without splicing into the existing wires. Given that the model 3 frunk light uses a different connector than the rest of the lights in the car, I was wondering if anyone has been able to find the connector for it online.

In the meantime I am considering trying to find the original light part directly from Tesla to see if it's possible to modify it to connect the LED strips wires to that, but if someone knows of a cleaner option I would definitely appreciate it.
 
what year is your M3?
pre-facelift uses VW 3pin connectors, pretty easy to find and very cheap. I made my own extended core, no wiring cutting required.
Parts no: 1-968700-1

The newer connector is 4pin, can't find the parts number online.
 

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@asian_xl mine is a fall 2021 build so I guess face lifted

I just got the inextstation led strip and waiting on some t taps.

I rather make a piggy back into the oem frunk light like what Hansshow did but not sure where to buy those 4 pin connectors like you showed (I’m sure it exist if the auto frunk uses those connectors to avoid splicing into oem harnesses)
 
Sourcing these and other automotive parts can be a problem due to supply chain issues that still persist. Mouser.com, Digikey.com usually stock them, but currently the 700 part is temporarily out of stock there. Newark apparently has some supply of both..

There are both 3 and 4 pin MQS connectors in the TE product catalog. With the Male and Female connectors, you could make a plug & play wire tap which preserves the factory wiring and can be removed at will.

1-968700-1 MQS, Housing for Male Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black, Signal, Key A
1-1718346-1 MQS, Housing for Female Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black, Signal, -40 – 176 °F [-40 – 80 °C], Key A

There may be other in-stock sources. Those are the housings only. The crimp terminals have different part numbers based on wire size used. Look at these web pages for compatible crimp terminals. The terminal should be easy to find in-stock.

MQS, Housing for Male Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black
MQS, Housing for Female Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black

Best idea is to look at the TE product catalog "MQS Interconnection for the Automotive Industry" for specific crimp terminal TE part numbers.
 
Over the Easter long weekend I went and did the wiring for it - March 2022 Model 3. The connector to the frunk button is a 4-pin connector with 1 unused. Purple is the actuator to the frunk so leave that one alone. Orange is -ve and Grey is +ve. So I tapped a car LED bar I had lying around (with both batteries disconnected) and on came the light. However, after a short while the light turned off together with the frunk button light also (while the frunk still works). To note - I do have the Tesla Offer auto frunk installed prior and that still functions as normal. What I'm thinking is that my LED bar is drawing too much current and may have tripped? But would have thought it would stop the button from working also. Thoughts?
 
Sourcing these and other automotive parts can be a problem due to supply chain issues that still persist. Mouser.com, Digikey.com usually stock them, but currently the 700 part is temporarily out of stock there. Newark apparently has some supply of both..

There are both 3 and 4 pin MQS connectors in the TE product catalog. With the Male and Female connectors, you could make a plug & play wire tap which preserves the factory wiring and can be removed at will.

1-968700-1 MQS, Housing for Male Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black, Signal, Key A
1-1718346-1 MQS, Housing for Female Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black, Signal, -40 – 176 °F [-40 – 80 °C], Key A

There may be other in-stock sources. Those are the housings only. The crimp terminals have different part numbers based on wire size used. Look at these web pages for compatible crimp terminals. The terminal should be easy to find in-stock.

MQS, Housing for Male Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black
MQS, Housing for Female Terminals, Wire-to-Wire, 3 Position, .1 in [2.54 mm] Centerline, Black

Best idea is to look at the TE product catalog "MQS Interconnection for the Automotive Industry" for specific crimp terminal TE part numbers.
Thanks for the details, I’m in Canada so likely harder to source these smaller parts
Over the Easter long weekend I went and did the wiring for it - March 2022 Model 3. The connector to the frunk button is a 4-pin connector with 1 unused. Purple is the actuator to the frunk so leave that one alone. Orange is -ve and Grey is +ve. So I tapped a car LED bar I had lying around (with both batteries disconnected) and on came the light. However, after a short while the light turned off together with the frunk button light also (while the frunk still works). To note - I do have the Tesla Offer auto frunk installed prior and that still functions as normal. What I'm thinking is that my LED bar is drawing too much current and may have tripped? But would have thought it would stop the button from working also. Thoughts?
So does the light work again?
 
Thanks for the details, I’m in Canada so likely harder to source these smaller parts

So does the light work again?
nope but auto frunk still works as normal. Should clarify - originally I did just tap the wires but thought as a long run without a piggy back connector it gets messy, so I opted for two sets of spade connectors (waiting for some of my weatherproof anderson connectors to arrive so that would do for now). So I can easily unplug the LED side of the connection without affecting original functionality. May have to dig up my multimeter to test existing current going in and out of the frunk button +ve and -ve and see if the LED is indeed drawing too much. If anyone knows how much I should be expecting that would be awesome to share too!
 
@EVer, when it is wired together with the additional LED, after powering on (both the main and the 15V) both the button light and the LED comes on. After a short while, assuming it is the e-fuse, the LED and the button light would go off. However, the functionality of the frunk button remains. i.e. you can close the frunk with the button despite not lighting up. I then removed the spade connectors to the LED so that the wiring to the frunk button is essentially the same as before - after disconnecting both batteries and reconnecting, and with the EVoffer auto frunk reset, the frunk button light resumes and functionality of closing works as expected.
 
@asian_xl , what i don't get is that, despite the LED or the frunk light doesn't work, the actuator works as expected (i.e. it can close the EVOffer auto frunk. I thought the actuator itself requires power to work (i.e. the grey and orange wires). So if the e-fuse tripped, I'd expect there's no power going through the connector and actuator won't power on. But no, that's not the case. I've since swapped to another LED I've lying around (different type for testing purposes) but same behaviour was observed. Hahaa... I see you're from HK and so am I... nice to e-meet you.
 
you might ask EVoffer for actual design of their power frunk module. From what I know I can trip the car efuse and still get the frunk switch to click. I have a sense the module is not giving enough or simply stop working with extra power from the LED.

There are 4 issues I encountered after installed 50 -60 cars
1) tripped the e-fuse when I stripped the wires, client panick and ask for refund. 30 minutes later, he texted back saying the light switch is back (3 cases)
2) evoffer (model Y) power frunk. The LED is on but frunk switch won't function (1 case)
3) Taobao power frunk. I believe the wires are too weak to handle the power. LED brightness cuts half. (2 cases)
4) everything works fine, but trigger dash warning something wrong with the frunk release. Once the LED remove, the warning is gone. (1 case)
 

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